Taking liberties with a Reptibreeze

ispeedonthe405

Established Member
In the middle of building a mansion for my adult panther, I found a little veiled boy I couldn't resist. He's now big enough for a big-boy house of his own. Rather than make him wait in the queue for a custom job, I decided to get one of the Overpriced... err, I mean "Deluxe LED" Repribreeze habitats, and see if I could do something cool with it in a weekend.

The 'Breeze comes with a plastic tray which I suppose is meant for substrate. That's not much use to me as I like a clean bottom. I decided to keep it but transform it into a floor with a grade and a drain.

Here's a shot where the forming is finished and the fit is being tested. The drain is not yet installed and the floor is not yet attached to the cage.

I did this by flipping the tray over, putting a dumbbell weight in the center, and using my heat gun to soften the plastic top (which used to be the bottom) until the weight pulled the plastic into this shape.

It was super easy to do. Couple of things though. First, heating up plastics will release fumes that are quite unhealthy; toxic and even deathly. Always do stuff like this in a ventilated area, and preferably with a proper breathing apparatus thingy. Yes your neighbors might become concerned. But I find that if you smile and wave and say Hi a lot, you can get away with all sorts of things. Even welding on your apartment patio.

Forming the plastic in this way is nothing like vacuum forming. Vacuum forming happens very quickly, whereas this is a slow and deliberate process. I was worried about melting the plastic but it took a surprising amount of heat to soften up enough for this to work. I was also worried about breaking the plastic at a temperature gradient, so I was careful to heat to right out to the outer edges of the outermost "squares" as well; however, most of the heat was added in circles around the weight.

After the heat forming was done I cut a small hole in the center and inserted a $2 plastic snap-in drain. The drain at first stuck out just a bit beyond the bottom of the floor piece. I thought about cutting it down but instead I just put some 1/4" weatherstripping on the lower screen frame. The floor sits on that, and the whole cage sits nice and flat with its drain bottom.

So now the installation. I consider this a permanent feature; this is the bottom of the cage. I didn't put anything in the bottom screen frame; neither screen nor the plastic panel that comes with the cage. The inverted and reshaped tray is just sitting on the lower frame. I sprayed Great Stuff Pond & Stone into the big space that runs all the way around the tray, between the squares and that outer lip. When the foam expanded, it pushed out the plastic enough to seal nice and tight against the screen.

Here it is installed and still badly needing to be cleaned up. From this angle you can see the grade. It should drain right into a 2-gal bucket placed beneath the cage. There's also a sneak peak at the back wall.

Another shot of the installed and still messy floor, different angle.
 
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Today I knocked out a sort of trellis made from furniture-grade PVC that I dolled up a bit cosmetically. I chose furniture grade because it's UV-stabilized, whereas regular plumbing grade is (I think) not. All fasteners are stainless steel, of which I have a ton on hand because of the other, as yet undocumented habitat project.

To help the trellis stand steady I made feet out of wood that I treated with Kennel Seal, and then wrapped in a piece of pond liner with staples. The PVC verticals have end caps with screw holes, so they just screw into the wood.

Unfinished but placed, it looks like this:

Next step was to make it less pipey. I don't know if pipey is a word. I wanted to reduce the part's pipacity.

To do that I painted some non toxic, water resistant wood glue onto the pipe and then smeared some peat moss into it. The back wall is made the same way, with a 24"x48"x1" foam board. If you do something like this make sure you don't get the moss with Miracle Grow or other fertilizer pellets in it. That stuff makes my fingers tingle when the little spheres containing the liquid break, so I don't want it anywhere near my boys.

There were some patches where moss didn't stick. There always are. But that's Ok, because if you take an airbrush to those areas with browns and greens it breaks up the monotony of dirt and looks much better overall.

Pipeness reduced by ~30%

Next step was to install some plants and sticks. I screwed in a single 8" ring-type plant holder for a big pothos as well as several 4" pots for small pothos cuttings. I have a bunch of fresh manzanita branches, and I took some smaller sticks and installed them into the pipe trellis with a drill and the kind of glue gun that looks like a Klingon disruptor.

Plantified

Last thing to do was install it. Not shown here is a 3" wide slab of 1/4" HDPE that runs across the back, on the outside. It's screwed into the frame on each side and it serves as a strong structural point for attaching things. Wood is fine, but I had this stuff already. The trellis is attached firmly to that support with SS wire at three points, going through the foam board and getting tied up on the outside of the support bar. That plus the long feet it's screwed to at the bottom keep it nice and stable.

You can't really see the manzanita sticks but there are about half a dozen of them.
 
Woah. You're giving me so many ideas here! And I don't just mean the new words you're dropping, though the verbosity is appreciated :)
 
Last work of the night. I took the plastic panel that's normally used as the bottom, and used it to make side splash guards. A full garden-center tray of Baby's Tears plants fits nicely between the feet.


I like this. It won't be hard to clean as the plant carpet is reasonably tight and the soil is fingertip thin. The box the plants come in is, possibly accidentally, almost exactly the right size to fill up that space. There are no hard-to-reach (hard to clean!!) crevices on the bottom. And the drain is still clear. Between the grooves in the surface and the sloping shape, the floor still works. It's not that heavy and it sits on the bottom anyway.
 
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Nearly there now.

The mister nozzles installed

Attachment points for branches (note: the branches are not yet attached, but are just lying there). I used magnets to hold up short pieces of 1" square board. You'll want N52-rated neodymium magnets, no thinner than 1/8". And do be careful because they're surprisingly strong.

I'm drilling holes in the wood blocks for plastic zip ties. I may or may not dremel a groove into the wood for the thick ends of the branch to rest in.

This is how we're looking so far. I removed the door temporarily so I could hook up the branches.
 
Looking good! Using the foam backdrop to mount the most heads is another good idea. If I may make a couple (hopefully constructive) comments...

The branch uniformity is a bit distracting. Maybe shake their layout up a bit instead of keeping them straight horizontally and in a vertical line? Also, is there any reason you wouldn't attach the magnets directly to the branches instead of to wooden blocks that the branches sit on?

Final thing, that game crashlands uses the same kind of crazy vocabulary as pipeness or pipocity. It's a fun game, you might enjoy it.
 
Maybe it doesn't come across well in the image but there are a number of smaller sticks perpendicular to the main horizontals, filling out the space behind and between them. I haven't put any vines in yet, either.

The ledges may each hold more than a branch. Vines and other things will also attach there, so it makes more sense to anchor the anchors than the branches.
 
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