letterkenny
Member
Wife and I are new Panther chameleon owners. We did a lot of research on here, some YouTubers, other websites and… Reddit. My wife uses that more than I do as I’m a traditional forums guy. That said, according to them, my setup which should be okay is a death trap there so I wanted to get thoughts here before changing anything especially given the startup costs incurred. So here it goes.
Yes it’s a glass enclosure with a screen top and ventilation slots on the front. I added a SensorPush into it in a middle spot to have continuous data but it’s fresh so not a ton yet. From constant checking, I see ambient temps in the 72-77 during the day and low 50s humidity going to 65 and 80s humidity after lights out. I am trying the water cup gimmick because I feel more opportunities to drink the better so why not (keeping it clean). All water is RODI made at home. It has a T8 UVB 5.0 that’s lifted about 4.5” off the top mesh of the enclosure while a 3D printed stand is being ordered. The basking lamp is a 60w incandescent (swapped from the blue tinted (but white light) 40/45 bulb the store got me to get) which results in I believe high 80s basking at the top. (When he’s not up there I’ll try to move a sensor there to see. An infrared heat gun puts the exo Tera vine at like 80-85, wood gets hotter, the skin of the actual chameleon can get much higher when basking directly but not sure if that’s because overall absorption or what a normal temp should be on the actual animal). The lamp is height adjustable so I can rise as needed if too hot or bring down as well. I bought and will add two more exo terra vines for more climbing space in front and back and will replace the one and only fake plant with real ones once we get things settled down.
We bought as bioactive and put in isopods and springtails. We will clean it but like the overall look which is why we went this direction. All plants were checked chameleon safe. We were hand misting on top of the existing water glass trial by hand but I added a mistland system (the same Chinese one you can get from 5x company’s) that’s set to go for 20 seconds before lights on and then 20 seconds after lights off. Note the dish within is his feeder dish which he mainly gets dubias and the treat super worm/hornworm (no crickets). These are supplemented and fed to gut load. I have two USB fans set on the lowest fan settings in a push/pull configuration (resting on the screen top next to each other) that runs during lights on time. Everything is hooked up to a Kasa smart strip. (Wish there was other smart automation items out there like the saltwater aquarium trade but just getting into this and learning).
My questions: overall thoughts on this setup? Namely, light position, intensity, hydration (misting schedule and amount, adding a water dripper, a reptizoo water dispenser), etc? Reddit says I’m going to kill this because of the substrate and a glass enclosure but all the articles and threads here contradict this. Just want to provide a good home while also trying to meet the goals I have set up for the design we would like. While we would extremely prefer not to get a new enclosure given what this cost, we would if needed and see a Reptizoo one that has 6” of screen on each side panel along with a screen top that could be a candidate (but $590 plus fitting it out).
Yes it’s a glass enclosure with a screen top and ventilation slots on the front. I added a SensorPush into it in a middle spot to have continuous data but it’s fresh so not a ton yet. From constant checking, I see ambient temps in the 72-77 during the day and low 50s humidity going to 65 and 80s humidity after lights out. I am trying the water cup gimmick because I feel more opportunities to drink the better so why not (keeping it clean). All water is RODI made at home. It has a T8 UVB 5.0 that’s lifted about 4.5” off the top mesh of the enclosure while a 3D printed stand is being ordered. The basking lamp is a 60w incandescent (swapped from the blue tinted (but white light) 40/45 bulb the store got me to get) which results in I believe high 80s basking at the top. (When he’s not up there I’ll try to move a sensor there to see. An infrared heat gun puts the exo Tera vine at like 80-85, wood gets hotter, the skin of the actual chameleon can get much higher when basking directly but not sure if that’s because overall absorption or what a normal temp should be on the actual animal). The lamp is height adjustable so I can rise as needed if too hot or bring down as well. I bought and will add two more exo terra vines for more climbing space in front and back and will replace the one and only fake plant with real ones once we get things settled down.
We bought as bioactive and put in isopods and springtails. We will clean it but like the overall look which is why we went this direction. All plants were checked chameleon safe. We were hand misting on top of the existing water glass trial by hand but I added a mistland system (the same Chinese one you can get from 5x company’s) that’s set to go for 20 seconds before lights on and then 20 seconds after lights off. Note the dish within is his feeder dish which he mainly gets dubias and the treat super worm/hornworm (no crickets). These are supplemented and fed to gut load. I have two USB fans set on the lowest fan settings in a push/pull configuration (resting on the screen top next to each other) that runs during lights on time. Everything is hooked up to a Kasa smart strip. (Wish there was other smart automation items out there like the saltwater aquarium trade but just getting into this and learning).
My questions: overall thoughts on this setup? Namely, light position, intensity, hydration (misting schedule and amount, adding a water dripper, a reptizoo water dispenser), etc? Reddit says I’m going to kill this because of the substrate and a glass enclosure but all the articles and threads here contradict this. Just want to provide a good home while also trying to meet the goals I have set up for the design we would like. While we would extremely prefer not to get a new enclosure given what this cost, we would if needed and see a Reptizoo one that has 6” of screen on each side panel along with a screen top that could be a candidate (but $590 plus fitting it out).