Tongue issue

[chamenjoyer]

Hello, I'm sorry for my words, I'm from Russia and I don't know English well. the problem with the chameleon's tongue.
Chameleon is 7 months old.
terrarium sizes 60x45x90
the temperature against the background of 26-28 degrees
in the warm-up is 32-33С*
humidity 40-50% is always maintained by automatic spraying
access to water is unlimited in the form of a fountain, but what we see is very rare.
We feed live crickets 12 a day + locusts sometimes once every two weeks we feed crickets + hawk moth
give calcium with an average content of d3 each feeding
Description of calcium: we use an average dosage of D₃ 55,000 IU/kg to recreate the natural balance of vitamins and minerals. This contributes to proper molting and the formation of a strong skeleton.

A complex with finely dispersed calcium with an average vitamin D3 content of 55,000 IU/kg
Specially designed for Yemeni Chameleons
It is also suitable for other types of chameleons, for example: Panther chameleon, Carpet Chameleon, Jackson's Chameleon
The safe level of D₃ fully covers the need for it and eliminates the possibility of overdose.
In a measuring spoon, about 60mg of Ca and 10 IU of D₃
, and vitamins once a week.
The lamp is 5% ultraviolet 2 months.
Behaves normally, does not refuse to eat, but does not finish shooting before eating, shoots 3 centimeters. they also noticed that the chameleon has slightly sunken eyes. I attach a photo of the tongue at the moment of the shot.
I usually feed photos from a jar with tweezers for clarity.

 

[Gloriawood]

Hello and welcome! He is adorable!! A couple things may be causing tongue issues with your chameleon. Calcium WITHOUT D3 should be used at every feeding. Multivitamin WITH D3 should be used twice a month only.

Your UVB should also be a linear one. The bulb like you have does not provide enough UVB. I’ll attach a photo of what you need.

Your basking temperature is a bit hot. It should be 26-29 Celsius maximum.

You will need to upgrade your enclosure size as well. Minimum size for an adult chameleon is 60x60x120 cm.

Also get rid of the tweezers. Use a small cup. If his tongue gets stuck on the tweezers it can cause damage.

 

[chamenjoyer]

is it worth worrying too much and contacting a veterinarian? or at the bottom moment, you can change the lamp and start giving calcium with D3 separately?
We also sometimes sunbathe in the sun like this

 

[Gloriawood]

is it worth worrying too much and contacting a veterinarian? or at the bottom moment, you can change the lamp and start giving calcium with D3 separately?
We also sometimes sunbathe in the sun like this

Incorrect lighting and D3 have been known to cause tongue issues. I would say this is almost definitely the issue.

I would change those things and watch him for a bit. It may take a few weeks to get better, but it should help. So don’t worry if it takes a little bit to get better. If it gets worse after making the changes, I would see a vet.

 

[Beman]

Welcome to the forum. The chameleon is in a D3 overdose... This impacts their tongue function and overall body condition. It can take a few months for the levels of D3 to reduce in the body.
Unfortunately a Vet will not be able to help with an overdose issue. Since D3 is fat soluble it stores in the body. The only way to get it to reduce is time. Switch immediately to a calcium without D3. Use this ONLY at every feeding for at least 6 weeks. Then you can introduce a multivitamin with D3 and vitamin A like repashy calcium plus LoD version. This would then be used ONLY 2 times a month. Let me know if you have questions on this.

UVB rays do not penetrate glass. You would need to get an arcadia ProT5 T5HO fixture with a 6% UVB bulb. This fixture sitting on top of a screen cage would need an 8-9 inch distance in the cage to the branches below it for the correct UVB level.

Follow the rest of the information @Gloriawood gave you for cage changes etc. This site will help you with correct husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

Then ask any questions you have here.

 

[chamenjoyer]

Welcome to the forum. The chameleon is in a D3 overdose... This impacts their tongue function and overall body condition. It can take a few months for the levels of D3 to reduce in the body.
Unfortunately a Vet will not be able to help with an overdose issue. Since D3 is fat soluble it stores in the body. The only way to get it to reduce is time. Switch immediately to a calcium without D3. Use this ONLY at every feeding for at least 6 weeks. Then you can introduce a multivitamin with D3 and vitamin A like repashy calcium plus LoD version. This would then be used ONLY 2 times a month. Let me know if you have questions on this.

UVB rays do not penetrate glass. You would need to get an arcadia ProT5 T5HO fixture with a 6% UVB bulb. This fixture sitting on top of a screen cage would need an 8-9 inch distance in the cage to the branches below it for the correct UVB level.

Follow the rest of the information @Gloriawood gave you for cage changes etc. This site will help you with correct husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

Then ask any questions you have here.

Thank you for your advice, we will switch to calcium without d3 in 4 days (, because we do not have a good substitute in stores and we are waiting for delivery. is it possible to feed him without calcium for now, or is it better not to feed him at all ? or feed it with calcium, which is?

 

[Beman]

Thank you for your advice, we will switch to calcium without d3 in 4 days (, because we do not have a good substitute in stores and we are waiting for delivery. is it possible to feed him without calcium for now, or is it better not to feed him at all ? or feed it with calcium, which is?

I would go ahead and feed him without the calcium until you get your order in. But you want to get the right UVB lighting as well. Or you will see other issues such as MBD.
With him being a veiled he is high risk for impaction with the fake plants and the bark in the bottom of the enclosure. I would do a cage conversion... Use lattice on your side walls to build a frame work you can hook up to. Then attach real branches with zip ties and add veiled safe plants. @MissSkittles can you post pics of lattice walls?

 

[MissSkittles]

Sure thing! They’re quite easy to attach and hold a decent amount of weight, including a couple of plants. I use thin wire and drill tiny holes on the ends of the garden trellis where I need. I also will put just a couple of small screws in the frame to attach to prevent the trellis from sliding down. I wasn’t sure I’d like how it looked, but it does look really nice and ‘finished’. I keep the panels around 2’ long and start them at about 10-12” down from the top. The trickiest part is cutting each panel the correct size. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Oh…I hang my fake plants on the outside of my enclosures to give my chams more privacy.

 

[CalamityCrow]

is it worth worrying too much and contacting a veterinarian? or at the bottom moment, you can change the lamp and start giving calcium with D3 separately?
We also sometimes sunbathe in the sun like this

Just so you know, no UVB gets through glass - the sunbathing is warm but it's not beneficial from the UVB side.

 

[chamenjoyer]

Good afternoon, everyone, thanks for your advice. And so, I changed the lamp to the one that you pointed out to me and began to feed vitamins as you said. Unfortunately, our problem has not gone away and he still cannot shoot with his tongue (he also began to shed much less often and do it much longer. The last time it did not shed for about two to three months and shed in parts for about 2 weeks. Please tell me what to do if there is no access to good veterinarians and whether it is necessary to go to them. Or should I continue to wait because, as you said, the process is very long to remove an overabundance of vitamins. He climbs the terrarium, sleeps well, his eyes are fine, there are no tumors, his bowel movements are light, there are no signs of problems. The only visible problems are with the tongue and molting

 

[Gloriawood]

Good afternoon, everyone, thanks for your advice. And so, I changed the lamp to the one that you pointed out to me and began to feed vitamins as you said. Unfortunately, our problem has not gone away and he still cannot shoot with his tongue (he also began to shed much less often and do it much longer. The last time it did not shed for about two to three months and shed in parts for about 2 weeks. Please tell me what to do if there is no access to good veterinarians and whether it is necessary to go to them. Or should I continue to wait because, as you said, the process is very long to remove an overabundance of vitamins. He climbs the terrarium, sleeps well, his eyes are fine, there are no tumors, his bowel movements are light, there are no signs of problems. The only visible problems are with the tongue and molting

Oh he is pretty! As they get older, shedding takes much longer and happens less often. They will not shed all at once. They may shed their head first, then a while later shed their tail, and so on. What you are describing sounds perfectly normal.

has the tongue issue gotten any worse? Or is it just the same with no improvement?

 

[chamenjoyer]

Hello, everything remains the same, no better, no wors

 

[Gloriawood]

Hello, everything remains the same, no better, no wors

I would just keep doing what you are doing then unless @Beman thinks different

 

[Beman]

Did you change your UVB set up so he is getting the correct amount? You also want to make sure your doing a multivitamin with A and D3. Post pics of what you are using and tell us the frequency. Also pics of the enclosure so we can see the lighting on top along with the cage. @MissSkittles @Sonny13 please watch for a reply on this one since I am out of pocket right now.

 

[chamenjoyer]

Did you change your UVB set up so he is getting the correct amount? You also want to make sure your doing a multivitamin with A and D3. Post pics of what you are using and tell us the frequency. Also pics of the enclosure so we can see the lighting on top along with the cage. @MissSkittles @Sonny13 please watch for a reply on this one since I am out of pocket right now.

I feed vitamin d3 repashy and vitamin A from a Russian manufacturer. I can switch to vitamin A from repashy. Please explain if I did it right. I gave d3 every second week and vitamin A every fourth week because my vitamin A also has d3. Or you should always mix vitamin an and vitamin d3 every two weeks. Uvb Arcadia pro t5 6%

 

[Beman]

I feed vitamin d3 repashy and vitamin A from a Russian manufacturer. I can switch to vitamin A from repashy. Please explain if I did it right. I gave d3 every second week and vitamin A every fourth week because my vitamin A also has d3. Or you should always mix vitamin an and vitamin d3 every two weeks. Uvb Arcadia pro t5 6%

Ok do not use the repashy vitamin A it will overdose the chameleon. I can not tell what the Russian one is or actual amounts so I can not say either way on that one. Thing about this is it may have far too much in it and not be good for a chameleon. So I want you to see if you can get this supplement... Repashy calcium plus LoD. This is a multivitamin with A and D3. This would only be used two times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Then you would continue to use the repashy supercal NoD that you have at all other feedings. If you can get this one it would replace the Russian one and the Supercal LoD and you would not use these again.

Now as far as the UVB you need branches right below where the fixture sits on top of the screen. With a 6% bulb you want a measured 8-9 inches to those branches. The UVB disbursement area is right below the bulb once you move a few inches away to the side your UVI levels drop. So this may mean pulling the fixture forward on the cage or angling it on top. Or putting in branches below it at the correct distance. From this pic it looks like the fixture is pushed to the back of the cage and I can not see if there are branches or not back there but if this is the set up without branches at the right distance he would not be getting the usable UVB levels he needs.

 

[chamenjoyer]

Ok do not use the repashy vitamin A it will overdose the chameleon. I can not tell what the Russian one is or actual amounts so I can not say either way on that one. Thing about this is it may have far too much in it and not be good for a chameleon. So I want you to see if you can get this supplement... Repashy calcium plus LoD. This is a multivitamin with A and D3. This would only be used two times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Then you would continue to use the repashy supercal NoD that you have at all other feedings. If you can get this one it would replace the Russian one and the Supercal LoD and you would not use these again.

Now as far as the UVB you need branches right below where the fixture sits on top of the screen. With a 6% bulb you want a measured 8-9 inches to those branches. The UVB disbursement area is right below the bulb once you move a few inches away to the side your UVI levels drop. So this may mean pulling the fixture forward on the cage or angling it on top. Or putting in branches below it at the correct distance. From this pic it looks like the fixture is pushed to the back of the cage and I can not see if there are branches or not back there but if this is the set up without branches at the right distance he would not be getting the usable UVB levels he needs.

View attachment 359037

Okay, I got it, I'll buy the right vitamins, the branches grow right under the lamp at a distance of 8 inches, usually it sits where uvb spreads.

 

[chamenjoyer]

Ok do not use the repashy vitamin A it will overdose the chameleon. I can not tell what the Russian one is or actual amounts so I can not say either way on that one. Thing about this is it may have far too much in it and not be good for a chameleon. So I want you to see if you can get this supplement... Repashy calcium plus LoD. This is a multivitamin with A and D3. This would only be used two times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Then you would continue to use the repashy supercal NoD that you have at all other feedings. If you can get this one it would replace the Russian one and the Supercal LoD and you would not use these again.

Now as far as the UVB you need branches right below where the fixture sits on top of the screen. With a 6% bulb you want a measured 8-9 inches to those branches. The UVB disbursement area is right below the bulb once you move a few inches away to the side your UVI levels drop. So this may mean pulling the fixture forward on the cage or angling it on top. Or putting in branches below it at the correct distance. From this pic it looks like the fixture is pushed to the back of the cage and I can not see if there are branches or not back there but if this is the set up without branches at the right distance he would not be getting the usable UVB levels he needs.

View attachment 359037

 

[chamenjoyer]

Hello everyone, it has been a little more time since my last message and I hasten to inform you that nothing has changed with our problem (. He also can't shoot his tongue beyond two centimeters. We also have a few more problems and I don't understand why I'm asking you to help me. I began to notice how he was sitting with his nose to the top, as shown in articles about her, as I understand it, it could be a respiratory infection. I also notice that his eye sometimes swells and after a moment before he moves it, he remains that way (I don't know what this is related to). I put photos of a slightly swollen eye, he went to bed and I noticed that the eye was swollen, after which I took a picture and he moved his eye a little and returned it to normal. The background temperature in the terrarium is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. At the warm-up point 87. Vitamins twice a month repashi calcium plus LoD. Each feeding is a supercal NoD. Humidity is 40-50% day and night. I use an automatic watering system every hour for 3 seconds to maintain humidity. I don't have the opportunity to show it to a good veterinarian because there are very few of them in Russia. And those that are say that the terrarium should have a temperature of 104 at the warm-up point and an ultraviolet of 15% and hang all the lamps near the branches. Tell me, does it make sense to go to such veterinarians? And what should I do now?
Look at his daytime photo and tell me if he looks healthy

 

[chamenjoyer]

I don't understand, does he inflate his eye on his own? Due to the fact that I am very nervous, I cannot sit still and while he is sleeping now with a swollen eye, I disturbed the chameleon a little and he blew off the eye.