Unusual tail end + shaking movement

[bandi]

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 3 months old male Veiled
Handling - i'll leave that for cat/dog owners
Feeding - He eats about 2-4 crickets and 2 waxworms a day, also seen him bite off some of the live plants leaves
Supplements - sera reptimineral c
Watering - I mist 2-3 times a day, and i also bought a little exoterra cascade. Seen him drink from the cascade a few times.
Fecal Description - Bigger part black, smaller part white
Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?-Not that i know of.
History - I boght it a week ago

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Its a glass terrarium, with a lane of screen on top, and one under the door. 80x30x35 (cm)
Lighting - I use a 75W exoterra daylight spot, 12 hours a day
Temperature - 29-30 Celsius in the basking spot, 24-26 Celsius in the bottom.
Humidity -According to my hygrometer, its between 50 and 65, can get to 70 after misting. I mist 2-3 times a day, - 2-3 minutes duration.
Plants - i have a bromelia, a Spatiphyllum floribudum and some moss on the floor
Placement - top of the terrarium is at around 180 cm high
Location - Hungary (thats why i use the european units)

He has that thing with his tail since they delivered him, I started seeing the shaking yesterday. I uploaded a photo of his tail, if you have any idea what this could be let me know please.(If its MBD i gotto smack the shopkeepers)

(Sorry for all the threads lately, im just quite insecure yet)

 

[owenyeconiel]

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 3 months old male Veiled
Handling - i'll leave that for cat/dog owners
Feeding - He eats about 2-4 crickets and 2 waxworms a day, also seen him bite off some of the live plants leaves
Supplements - sera reptimineral c
Watering - I mist 2-3 times a day, and i also bought a little exoterra cascade. Seen him drink from the cascade a few times.
Fecal Description - Bigger part black, smaller part white
Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?-Not that i know of.
History - I boght it a week ago

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Its a glass terrarium, with a lane of screen on top, and one under the door. 80x30x35 (cm)
Lighting - I use a 75W exoterra daylight spot, 12 hours a day
Temperature - 29-30 Celsius in the basking spot, 24-26 Celsius in the bottom.
Humidity -According to my hygrometer, its between 50 and 65, can get to 70 after misting. I mist 2-3 times a day, - 2-3 minutes duration.
Plants - i have a bromelia, a Spatiphyllum floribudum and some moss on the floor
Placement - top of the terrarium is at around 180 cm high
Location - Hungary (thats why i use the european units)

He has that thing with his tail since they delivered him, I started seeing the shaking yesterday. I uploaded a photo of his tail, if you have any idea what this could be let me know please.(If its MBD i gotto smack the shopkeepers)

(Sorry for all the threads lately, im just quite insecure yet)

dont give waxworm everyday,,it just for a treat. cmiiw. lol.
you should give calcium w/o d3 every feeding.
give multivitamin and calcium w/ d3 twice a month.
why dont you use uv lghts? try reptisun 5.0 or repti glo 5.0.
actually for the tail i have no idea. the picture is blurring,maybe the others know?
is it shaking all the time? or just sometimes?
sorry for bad english.

 

[bandi]

He doesnt seem to be shaking when he starts going fast( when he seems a cricket and goes to hunt it down), only when wandering around slowly.
I am getting his UV light in a few days, along with some more vines, multivit and D3 calcium.

 

[owenyeconiel]

He doesnt seem to be shaking when he starts going fast( when he seems a cricket and goes to hunt it down), only when wandering around slowly.
I am getting his UV light in a few days, along with some more vines, multivit and D3 calcium.

owh,okay..
sorry idk about this tail shaking problem.
maybe the senior member could help

 

[bandi]

Im afraid you misunderstood me
His legs are shaking when he walks not his tale, was just being curious if anyone had any idea why the tail is so wierd shaped.

 

[Stanly]

By shaking do you mean jerky movements when he walks? If so that's normal it's a form of disguise. if not it could be a symptom of MBD, do you know if the people that had him before had a uvb light on him? Regardless he needs a uvb light asap (make sure no glass is between him and the light). The tail sort of looks like it has been injured, if it's healed up it should be fine but you should watch for signs of infection or necrosis (dead flesh ) in which case a vet would be in order.

also I'd get rid of the cascade as they can be a breading ground for bacteria, I'd also lose the moss as he may ingest it which can cause choking or impaction (can't poop). lastly be sure and check that your plants are safe for chameleons (there's a list on the forums)

 

[Benton1576]

As previously said, chameleons sometimes walk a bit jerky, thats normal but if he is physically shaking then you have a problem with him. A vet trip wouldnt be a bad thing for you to do, you can get a full checkup and samples taken to be sure theres no virus etc. Best to treat him now before things progress to worse problems (if there is any)

As for the tail, it looks to me like one of his brothers or sisters may have taken a nip at it. shouldnt cause him any problems at all, just be sure to watch for any sign of infection.

 

[kinyonga]

It looks like a ring of shed has remained on the tail. If it continues to constrict the tail, the tip of the tail will likely fall off and may become infected. Can't be sure that this is what it is since the picture isn't too clear.

Re: sera reptimineral c...I'm not familiar with this...how much calcium, D3, phosphorus and prEformed vitamin A does it have in it?

The chameleon needs to be exposed to UVB so that it can produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system. Without it, it could/will develop MBD. The UVB light should not pass through glass or plastic BTW.

Don't think I posted this in one of your threads...so here's some information you might find helpful......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/

 

[bandi]

This is what i found from reptimineral C:
Sera Reptimineral C

Vitamin and mineral food additive for carnivorous terrarium animals

+ calcium
+ amino acids
+ trace elements
100 ml = 85 g
As the food does not contain enough minerals in most cases, sera reptimineral C was specially developed for providing
carnivorous terrarium animals with Calcium and other minerals.
Furthermore it is rich in vitamins, trace elements and essential amino acids.
sera reptimineral C prevents deficiencies and promotes digestion and muscle buildup of the reptiles.

I ordered him calcium with and without D3, and also a reptivit, and a Rep Glo 5.0 is coming in a few days time too.
Do I understand you right? The chameleon has to be able to go in and out of the UV light?


Thanks for all the replies (especially the parent part Im not that young, just excited about the chams)

 

[kinyonga]

The UVB light has a range...he should be able to move in and out of its range.