Veiled chameleon sex?
- Thread starter yolobrat
- Start date
Syreptyon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Please fill out the how to ask for help form, yolo... You have repeatedly ignored us asking you and there have already been problems in your supplies and knowledge base. The pictures you posted also demonstrate that you don't know how to sex a veiled (this requires us to see the back of their back feet). We can't help you with those pictures, and we especially can't help you without you giving us information as to how you are caring for this animal. I really recommend you doing more research and using the search bar for more good information.
I can already see that you need to make changes to the enclosure. Please, if you value the health of your animal, fill out the form. Your previous posts demonstrate that you have more to learn still and this is the best place to start.
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
I can already see that you need to make changes to the enclosure. Please, if you value the health of your animal, fill out the form. Your previous posts demonstrate that you have more to learn still and this is the best place to start.
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Yes you are right, im sorry but i REEEALLY didnt have any time i will write u tomorrow i hope u will be able to help!
Chompingreens
Member
Any animal that is a pet should be considered a family member meaning there is always time, if you can’t make time for your family member then ownership of a critter is not in your best interest. Please make time
1. Veiled chameleon, female, 3 months old
2. Never handled her, i have her for 4 days
3.i feed her crickets and roaches, i feed her in the morning, but she has the food all the time. When she got here i placed the feeding cup in the cage and she came and ate her self, but she made some strange movements after eating, something like snake, 2nd day i placed the cup in front of her with my hand and waited and she ate again 5, 6 crickets and same reaction, maybe a little less. And yesterday she didnt want to eat anything and i was holding the cup couple times a day and she has that cup in cage 24/7 and some free crickets in cage. Im feeding crickets and roaches with apples and bananas.
4. The brand of calcium is Repashy superfoods, i dusted the insects every day so she only ate dusted crickets.
5. Im misting manualy (spraying), i spray 4 or 5 times a day sometimes really long until the humidity rise to over 70-80 % and she seems to like that, and sometimes a little bit less, to 60% maybe.when she got here she drank a lot that night, the day after a little bit and yesterday even less...but i saw her drink.
6.i dont know has she been tested for parasites. The color of fecal is light greenish.
7. I dont know much i bought her from the biggest reptile shop in my country its all i know....
Cage info:
1.glass tank 60X60X120 cm with screen on the top and one screen on the front on the 120 cm suface and that screen is around 50× 60
2. JBL reptile jungle, 15W , 5% UVB and heating Flamingo 100W, i usually turn on the lights at 9 and keep them until 9, but when i see that she only sits on the hotspot i somethimes turn of the heating to see what happens and she becomes pure light green and seems more alive and faster and i think she only ate wothout heating light. When its on she becomes darker a lot darker....and she doesnt move when its on.
3.i measure temp and humidity with termo/hydrometer for terariums that i bought in pet shop. At first i measured temp on the hotspot around 36 37C and it was way too much so i placed the light so that she has 26, 27C on that spot where she is always ( most of the time actually) she never actually went to the bottom of the cage only in the middle and on the top.
4. I already said how i measure the humidity, i create humidity only by spraying the plants and glass, it seems that she likes almost 100% of humidity and its around 70% most of the day, lowest it reaches is 40% when i wasnt at home.
5. Im using vines and fig branches( only few ones) and other (most of it) are not real plants.
6. The cage is placed in my room on the 2nd floor... when im at home im or playing the guitar in there (classical music, its my profession, not any loud agressive music) she doesnt seem to react on it, so i dont know what you consider high traffic area but she is sometimes alone for couple of hours or im sitting and playing and im moving mostly bc of going for water for her and insects so...
7.im located in Croatia, Osijek
The problem is that she drinks and eats too little and yesterday almost nothing, she sits on the hotspot most of the time and in darker colors, and when i turn of the heating she becomes light green and she moves more ( its strange). I already said how she ate on the top of the text.
I hope this will help!
2. Never handled her, i have her for 4 days
3.i feed her crickets and roaches, i feed her in the morning, but she has the food all the time. When she got here i placed the feeding cup in the cage and she came and ate her self, but she made some strange movements after eating, something like snake, 2nd day i placed the cup in front of her with my hand and waited and she ate again 5, 6 crickets and same reaction, maybe a little less. And yesterday she didnt want to eat anything and i was holding the cup couple times a day and she has that cup in cage 24/7 and some free crickets in cage. Im feeding crickets and roaches with apples and bananas.
4. The brand of calcium is Repashy superfoods, i dusted the insects every day so she only ate dusted crickets.
5. Im misting manualy (spraying), i spray 4 or 5 times a day sometimes really long until the humidity rise to over 70-80 % and she seems to like that, and sometimes a little bit less, to 60% maybe.when she got here she drank a lot that night, the day after a little bit and yesterday even less...but i saw her drink.
6.i dont know has she been tested for parasites. The color of fecal is light greenish.
7. I dont know much i bought her from the biggest reptile shop in my country its all i know....
Cage info:
1.glass tank 60X60X120 cm with screen on the top and one screen on the front on the 120 cm suface and that screen is around 50× 60
2. JBL reptile jungle, 15W , 5% UVB and heating Flamingo 100W, i usually turn on the lights at 9 and keep them until 9, but when i see that she only sits on the hotspot i somethimes turn of the heating to see what happens and she becomes pure light green and seems more alive and faster and i think she only ate wothout heating light. When its on she becomes darker a lot darker....and she doesnt move when its on.
3.i measure temp and humidity with termo/hydrometer for terariums that i bought in pet shop. At first i measured temp on the hotspot around 36 37C and it was way too much so i placed the light so that she has 26, 27C on that spot where she is always ( most of the time actually) she never actually went to the bottom of the cage only in the middle and on the top.
4. I already said how i measure the humidity, i create humidity only by spraying the plants and glass, it seems that she likes almost 100% of humidity and its around 70% most of the day, lowest it reaches is 40% when i wasnt at home.
5. Im using vines and fig branches( only few ones) and other (most of it) are not real plants.
6. The cage is placed in my room on the 2nd floor... when im at home im or playing the guitar in there (classical music, its my profession, not any loud agressive music) she doesnt seem to react on it, so i dont know what you consider high traffic area but she is sometimes alone for couple of hours or im sitting and playing and im moving mostly bc of going for water for her and insects so...
7.im located in Croatia, Osijek
The problem is that she drinks and eats too little and yesterday almost nothing, she sits on the hotspot most of the time and in darker colors, and when i turn of the heating she becomes light green and she moves more ( its strange). I already said how she ate on the top of the text.
I hope this will help!
You thinks she doesnt want to eat bc of 2 high temp? I mean its still 26 C (79 F)
What is your recommendation? How many watts?
Remkon
Chameleon Enthusiast
No, my observation is complety unrelated to her not eating but if you have a 100watt lamp this will almost always be to much for a young female veiled.
Can you upload a good pic of the whole enclosure? 26C on basking with a 100Watt lamp? I manage that with 40watts...
Her not eating could be because of many things like she's just been moved to a new home 4days ago and she's stressed, or she's stressed otherwise, or she could be just before sheding and has no apetite, just to name a few.
She needs privacy right now so she can settle, you being in her face trying to help could have opposite effect. Do what you need to do around the enclosure and let her be, try that for a week or so.
Yeah im constantly doing something to help her meybe its that much stressful to her. Thak you... heres the pic
Attachments
chameleonneeds
Avid Member
That bulb cannot be 100 watts producing 26C while being positioned inside the cage. As Remkon said, that is achievable with much lower wattage. Generally when she goes darker that means she is basking and warming up. When she goes light green under the light that means she's warm enough.
Your cage is poorly setup.
I would change to an all screen cage - much more suitable for a veiled chameleon.
CFL UVB bulbs might be okay to use now but it's cramped up in the side not giving a good coverage over the cage. Replace it with a linear tube fixture. Remove the heat lamp and place it in a fixture that rests ontop of or above the mesh top not inside the cage - you risk burning the chameleon.
Add live plants to the cage to provide hiding spots and to increase the humidity - ficus and schefflera are very popular. Position your heat bulb (outside the cage) to a spot in the cage where you might have some branches or vines for the chameleon to perch under. Thick vegetation allows the chameleon to seek shade from the lights if she wishes and allows for some thermoregulation by seeking out warmer or colder spots.
A tiny chameleon in a huge cage can make it difficult for them to find all the insects. I like to house younger chameleons in smaller setups until they have grown. Try placing the insects in a feeder cup that she can easily see. If you use a screen cage you can put a magnet in the cup and another magnet outside the cage making magnetic contact with each other. You can suspend the cup high up in the cage (maybe near the basking light) this way.
You can also ditch the green astroturf material from the bottom as you will probably find any loose insects will hide under there. I prefer not to use substrate for that reason.
Your cage is poorly setup.
I would change to an all screen cage - much more suitable for a veiled chameleon.
CFL UVB bulbs might be okay to use now but it's cramped up in the side not giving a good coverage over the cage. Replace it with a linear tube fixture. Remove the heat lamp and place it in a fixture that rests ontop of or above the mesh top not inside the cage - you risk burning the chameleon.
Add live plants to the cage to provide hiding spots and to increase the humidity - ficus and schefflera are very popular. Position your heat bulb (outside the cage) to a spot in the cage where you might have some branches or vines for the chameleon to perch under. Thick vegetation allows the chameleon to seek shade from the lights if she wishes and allows for some thermoregulation by seeking out warmer or colder spots.
A tiny chameleon in a huge cage can make it difficult for them to find all the insects. I like to house younger chameleons in smaller setups until they have grown. Try placing the insects in a feeder cup that she can easily see. If you use a screen cage you can put a magnet in the cup and another magnet outside the cage making magnetic contact with each other. You can suspend the cup high up in the cage (maybe near the basking light) this way.
You can also ditch the green astroturf material from the bottom as you will probably find any loose insects will hide under there. I prefer not to use substrate for that reason.
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Huh...i know its sounds impossible but that is the temperature somehow...but i will replace it with lower wattage...maybe 50? Also she does see the insects and she did eat them on the day one from that position and she is looking at them but not eating them now....
Remkon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Looks to me there's no good branch unfer the basking/uvb light. If you had a proper baskingplace the temp would easily go to 50C with a 100 watt lamp. Since your chameleon needs to be aprox 8" from the uvb light this will be a problem.
Your enclosure is also on the floor, this isn't what they prefer as they feel safer up high.
Oh and don't ever hang your lights from the wire if it comes lose, which it very well can over time, you could risk burning the house down or ele trocution. I hope they are atleast porselin fixtures as the plastic ones wont last long in high temperatures.
Your enclosure is also on the floor, this isn't what they prefer as they feel safer up high.
Oh and don't ever hang your lights from the wire if it comes lose, which it very well can over time, you could risk burning the house down or ele trocution. I hope they are atleast porselin fixtures as the plastic ones wont last long in high temperatures.
It is safely placed i cant even move those wires by hand force...i did measure the temp right under the heating bulb and its 37 but on the place where chameleon spends all the time, there on the branch under the uvb light is 26-27C.... but it seems its 2much bc she acts better when heating is off...i will place lower wattage maybe it will help...but reeearly she moves somewhere in the shade and mostly when i mist....or when she sleeps...but why is she on the hotspot all the time if its too hot i dont understand that
Oh.. and what do you think is 75 or 50 watts better... also meybe on the pic doesnt look like it but its a big vivarium and the uvb bulb is almost 15 inches away from the highest spot that cham could go and heating even more....and i will put it on the higher place when she allow me to handle her....i cant do it like this for sure...and thanks
Only in case you didnt see I posted the info...i hope you will help me...i think its the heating ☺
JapSolum
Member
not eating should be monitored, but as said before its not the end of the world for short periods of time. like posted above it could be stress or any number of things and should hopefully even out. I agree that biggest areas of opportunity is the setup. mesh is better for ventilation, and for giving a bigger variety of hotter and colder places they can go to to thermo regulate. I'd also agree that tube uvb will cover more area and help absorb the calcium shes eating, which will help fight mbd. I would also highly suggest at least a dripper for a constant source of water, if not an automatic misting system. only being able to drink when you mist is like somebody telling you when you are and are not allowed to have a glass of water. I do think it's good you're asking for help though rather than letting it go. as for sex, coloring would make me guess it is female but if you get some close ups of the back of her back feet we could tell more easily
