MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Someone mentioned not too long ago in another post to cover the pic of the chameleon on your little dripper.
Veiled Shaking
- Thread starter Dexter’s Mom
- Start date
Dexter’s Mom
Member
Thank you, I actually did, this in an older pic. I’ve added a few branches and covered the pic on the dripper. The rest is the same.
Thatwizard420
Chameleon Enthusiast
GoodKarma19
Chameleon Enthusiast
ExoTerra enclosures are actually very beneficial in dry/cold environments, and have pretty solid ventilation due to the vent strip toward the bottom. It creates a "chimney effect", which circulates the air. Additional airflow can be achieved by the use of a DC fan on top of the enclosure, sucking air out (and thus pulling more in from the bottom vent).
A well built terrarium doesnt have the same problems with stagnant air and poor air flow that an aquarium or similar does.
/end rant.
Genez114
Member
Glass cages for a chameleon can create many problems:
Ventilation issues
Lime scale on the glass
Reflections - that's why he keeps shaking cause he notices his reflection and thinks it's another cham
Damage to the tongue - he may try to get a cricket and miss. Cause damage to his tongue
Poor drainage
Ventilation issues
Lime scale on the glass
Reflections - that's why he keeps shaking cause he notices his reflection and thinks it's another cham
Damage to the tongue - he may try to get a cricket and miss. Cause damage to his tongue
Poor drainage
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
There is no reason a cham can not be kept in a glass viv. Every enclosure type has its advantages and shortfalls that must be compensated for, Its all about how the keeper manages these differences.
The Wild One
Chameleon Enthusiast
It also depends on where you live considering humidity
GoodKarma19
Chameleon Enthusiast
Counter arguements, cause I'm a big advocate for glass enclosures done right, and like to ensure that all sides are represented well!
Ventilation issues: only in poorly designed glass enclosures, such as aquariums (which are not built for reptiles) - not a problem in well built terrariums designed for reptiles (I.e. ExoTerra). If it's not drying out properly, then you add a DC fan on the top as zip already mentioned.
Lime scale on glass: won't happen if you're using RO or distilled water, and can be prevented with tap water by regularly wiping down the glass with a microfiber cloth.
Reflections: the inside actually isn't terribly reflective, and there have been very few reports of animals being bothered by it. Not to say it can't happen, but there are ways to reduce potential glare. Hadn't been an issue for my animals, but I also have 3 sides covered in a spray foam background.
Damage to the tongue: could happen in any enclosure, on any surface. Accidents happen, and it's certainly not glass specific!
Poor Drainage: you got me there, that's the one major drawback to glass terrariums. However, due to the humidity retaining qualities of glass, you can also get away with using less water when installing a misting system. I, personally, have gone bioactive and don't have any issues with water. That's what my drainage layer is for! But for non-bioactive enclosures, I agree water is more of a problem.
Both screen and glass have their place when done right - it all depends on your environmental factors and what you're looking to achieve! More than one way to skin a cat. I have a screen enclosure and a glass enclosure, and have had to modify both to suit my needs. If anything, I had to modify the screen more to make it work!
My 36x18x36 glass ExoTerra bioactive (front doors removed and replaced with a screen panel until I eventually get it fixed, cause whatever - it works! Have to go through a ton of water to keep up, though):
ReptiBreeze bioactive (16x16x30 for my sick lady, Lily) on a planter box; had to cover 3 sides to maintain the correct humidity and temperature, cause Canada.
Edit: apologies for thread jacking a little - I felt compelled to set the record straight!
Last edited:
janjan20
Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes, I would get a lower wattage between 40-60. It’s such a small space and the glass will probably cause it to get hotter quicker. Also, you may want to move the basking bulb up off of the screen. This will also prevent overheating. You need to invest in a T5 6 %or 12% linear bulb and ditch the compact uvb bulb. And as said above he needs a lot more foliage to feel comfortable.
AnamCara
Chameleon Enthusiast
Larger enclosure. More live plants. More sticks/vines. LINEAR T5HO LIGHT.
Dexter’s Mom
Member
I went back and forth on glass or screen due to the weather up here. I was worried the cold outside and dry heat inside would make it hard to manage humidity. Maybe I’ll try the fan.ExoTerra enclosures are actually very beneficial in dry/cold environments, and have pretty solid ventilation due to the vent strip toward the bottom. It creates a "chimney effect", which circulates the air. Additional airflow can be achieved by the use of a DC fan on top of the enclosure, sucking air out (and thus pulling more in from the bottom vent).
A well built terrarium doesnt have the same problems with stagnant air and poor air flow that an aquarium or similar does.
/end rant.
Dexter’s Mom
Member
Great setup! Thanks for the feedback.Counter arguements, cause I'm a big advocate for glass enclosures done right, and like to ensure that all sides are represented well!
Ventilation issues: only in poorly designed glass enclosures, such as aquariums (which are not built for reptiles) - not a problem in well built terrariums designed for reptiles (I.e. ExoTerra). If it's not drying out properly, then you add a DC fan on the top as zip already mentioned.
Lime scale on glass: won't happen if you're using RO or distilled water, and can be prevented with tap water by regularly wiping down the glass with a microfiber cloth.
Reflections: the inside actually isn't terribly reflective, and there have been very few reports of animals being bothered by it. Not to say it can't happen, but there are ways to reduce potential glare. Hadn't been an issue for my animals, but I also have 3 sides covered in a spray foam background.
Damage to the tongue: could happen in any enclosure, on any surface. Accidents happen, and it's certainly not glass specific!
Poor Drainage: you got me there, that's the one major drawback to glass terrariums. However, due to the humidity retaining qualities of glass, you can also get away with using less water when installing a misting system. I, personally, have gone bioactive and don't have any issues with water. That's what my drainage layer is for! But for non-bioactive enclosures, I agree water is more of a problem.
Both screen and glass have their place when done right - it all depends on your environmental factors and what you're looking to achieve! More than one way to skin a cat. I have a screen enclosure and a glass enclosure, and have had to modify both to suit my needs. If anything, I had to modify the screen more to make it work!
My 36x18x36 glass ExoTerra bioactive (front doors removed and replaced with a screen panel until I eventually get it fixed, cause whatever - it works! Have to go through a ton of water to keep up, though):
View attachment 250726
ReptiBreeze bioactive (16x16x30 for my sick lady, Lily) on a planter box; had to cover 3 sides to maintain the correct humidity and temperature, cause Canada.
View attachment 250727
Edit: apologies for thread jacking a little - I felt compelled to set the record straight!
@Dexter’s Mom ...I've been keeping chameleons for over 30 years and when I started doing it there was no choice but to use GLASS AQUARIUMS....and I DON'T recommend them but even they weren't impossible. I tried screen when they came out but because I live in southern Ontario it was so hard to keep the humidity in and to heat them in the winter so,I tried glass on three sides and screen doors and lids. These still were hard to keep humid enough without ending up with mold in my house..so I switched to the Eco terra cages when they came out...and they work well. I do have to deal with lime though since I don't like to use distilled water. With the Eco Terra's....you just have to place the lights so they cause a chimney effect as was mentioned already..
Screen, partial screen, partial glass and all glass with vents all have their uses depending on the individuals situation and the species of chameleon you're trying to keep.
I hope this helps.
As for the shaking...is your chameleon still doing it?
Screen, partial screen, partial glass and all glass with vents all have their uses depending on the individuals situation and the species of chameleon you're trying to keep.
I hope this helps.
As for the shaking...is your chameleon still doing it?
Dexter’s Mom
Member
Thank you, that helps very much. And no, I did not see him shaking at all today. I’ll update if anything changes.
Dexter’s Mom
Member
So I’ll see if it works better tomorrow, but it barely got to 70 degrees with the 60 watt after 5 hours. I’m def getting the linear bulb this weekend.Yes, I would get a lower wattage between 40-60. It’s such a small space and the glass will probably cause it to get hotter quicker. Also, you may want to move the basking bulb up off of the screen. This will also prevent overheating. You need to invest in a T5 6 %or 12% linear bulb and ditch the compact uvb bulb. And as said above he needs a lot more foliage to feel comfortable.
Dexter’s Mom
Member
Perfect!! I knew I needed something like this but wasn’t sure where to get it.
Lennoncham
Chameleon Enthusiast
what are you measuring the temps with?
the dial gages aren’t very reliable and get messed up easily if they get wet.
the prob thermometers are better but still not always accurate.
and infrared temp gun is probably the most accurate but it tells you surface temp rather then air temp.
I use a prob thermometers to get ambient air readings and an Infrared temp gun to get surface readings. This helps to better gage the actual basking temp.
