What does this mean?

[jackwood775]

Just checked up on him and just did a poop check and I saw it seemed quite orange and wet, any help? He is also shredding at the moment.

 

[Beman]

The chameleon is dehydrated based on the solid orange urate. They should be no more than 50% orange to be considered hydrated. The fecal however has mucous in it. This would be cause for a fecal test to rule out a parasite load.

 

[jackwood775]

The chameleon is dehydrated based on the solid orange urate. They should be no more than 50% orange to be considered hydrated. The fecal however has mucous in it. This would be cause for a fecal test to rule out a parasite load.

I find it weird he dehydrated because I spray him for 1-2 mins two times a day and his humidity stays around 60+. I’ll be getting a fecal test sent to me this week.

 

[jackwood775]

The chameleon is dehydrated based on the solid orange urate. They should be no more than 50% orange to be considered hydrated. The fecal however has mucous in it. This would be cause for a fecal test to rule out a parasite load.

Can parasites can dehydration?

 

[Beman]

I find it weird he dehydrated because I spray him for 1-2 mins two times a day and his humidity stays around 60+. I’ll be getting a fecal test sent to me this week.

So humidity being that high during the daytime is not advised. They can get a respiratory infection with hot humid air. As far as your spraying him. If you are manually spraying him some do not want to drink in front of someone. Also it can take 2 minutes just to trigger a drinking response with a chameleon. This is where a dripper during the day is a good option.

 

[Beman]

Can parasites can dehydration?

No, it is not linked like that. You can have a sick cham that is declining showing dehydration but you can also have a sick cham with a high parasite load that is fully hydrated. Hydration all comes down to the methods you implement.

 

[jackwood775]

No, it is not linked like that. You can have a sick cham that is declining showing dehydration but you can also have a sick cham with a high parasite load that is fully hydrated. Hydration all comes down to the methods you implement.

Ahh okay, so you suggest just using a dripper, just find it weird since he’s always seemed quite hydrated judging from his poo urate always bejbg 100% white, not changes anything in his hydration methods.

 

[Beman]

Ahh okay, so you suggest just using a dripper, just find it weird since he’s always seemed quite hydrated judging from his poo urate always bejbg 100% white, not changes anything in his hydration methods.

So that is why I said they are not linked and it comes down to your hydration method. If you are manually spraying and he is not drinking because he does not feel well then you are going to have a dehydrated chameleon. NO, I am not saying to only use a dripper during the day. Hydration is multifaceted. So you take misting, a dripper, and fogging then implement them the way they should be used.

Misting serves not only for drinking water but so they can clean their eyes. This is why an automister like a mist king is important for a cham. Most chams will not drink or clean their eyes with a person standing their spraying the cage. A mist king has nozzles mounted at the top of the cage and it is a very very fine mist. Most chams will start walking into that mist to clean their eyes and drink. Where a spray bottle has a hard mist with large drops. Most do not like these and will avoid the areas being sprayed.

Adding a dripper in the morning or mid day can be done with a plastic solo cup and a few tiny pin holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in the cup and set it on the screen top away from your lighting but so that it will drip down through the screen onto plant leaves. This has a consistent drip on the leaves which triggers a drinking response because chameleons go for the movement of the water.

Then you have fogging. This should only be done at night and when temps are well below 67 degrees and needs air circulation. This increases ambient humidity in the cage. Cold moist air that they then are breathing in is another form of hydration for a chameleon.

It comes down to how you implement your hydration methods for your ambient conditions, species type, and needs of the chameleon. If a sick chameleon is not drinking this is where fogging at night if your temps support it become a good option.

 

[ERKleRose]

I find it weird he dehydrated because I spray him for 1-2 mins two times a day and his humidity stays around 60+. I’ll be getting a fecal test sent to me this week.

Is this your panther cham? How high above 60% does it get when ambient (60% is fine for a panther)? Have you unwrapped any sides of the cage for more airflow like suggested from your previous thread, and has his poop been tested by your vet since then, as well?

 

[jackwood775]

Is this your panther cham? How high above 60% does it get when ambient (60% is fine for a panther)? Have you unwrapped any sides of the cage for more airflow like suggested from your previous thread, and has his poop been tested by your vet since then, as well?

I’ve unwrapped one side and I’ve struggled getting into the vets but I’ve managed to get a test in 1-2 weeks, earliest I could get one.

 

[ERKleRose]

Are you able to drop off poop before then, or do they require an appointment first?

 

[jackwood775]

I’m pretty sure I’m given the kit to do myself and give it them. And I get the kit 1-2 weeks not sure why

 

[ERKleRose]

You can call and see if you can drop off a sample in a baggie or container for them to test sooner, if they’ll allow it

 

[jackwood775]

Are you able to drop off poop before then, or do they require an appointment first?

They suggested to order a kit and do it myself and send it to a lab, and then let the vet know if he has a parasite or not.

 

[jackwood775]

So that is why I said they are not linked and it comes down to your hydration method. If you are manually spraying and he is not drinking because he does not feel well then you are going to have a dehydrated chameleon. NO, I am not saying to only use a dripper during the day. Hydration is multifaceted. So you take misting, a dripper, and fogging then implement them the way they should be used.

Misting serves not only for drinking water but so they can clean their eyes. This is why an automister like a mist king is important for a cham. Most chams will not drink or clean their eyes with a person standing their spraying the cage. A mist king has nozzles mounted at the top of the cage and it is a very very fine mist. Most chams will start walking into that mist to clean their eyes and drink. Where a spray bottle has a hard mist with large drops. Most do not like these and will avoid the areas being sprayed.

Adding a dripper in the morning or mid day can be done with a plastic solo cup and a few tiny pin holes in the bottom. Put ice cubes in the cup and set it on the screen top away from your lighting but so that it will drip down through the screen onto plant leaves. This has a consistent drip on the leaves which triggers a drinking response because chameleons go for the movement of the water.

Then you have fogging. This should only be done at night and when temps are well below 67 degrees and needs air circulation. This increases ambient humidity in the cage. Cold moist air that they then are breathing in is another form of hydration for a chameleon.

It comes down to how you implement your hydration methods for your ambient conditions, species type, and needs of the chameleon. If a sick chameleon is not drinking this is where fogging at night if your temps support it become a good option.

It seems to me that he is a little more hydrated now since his urate is fully white. I think I still see mucus in it though.