What is this dark spot??!!

RescueMom

Avid Member
I filled out your form last week, but I've updated it. I'll repost it and hope for some answers about this spot on his back

Chameleon

Info: Your Chameleon - Male Panther, 9mos old. I've had him 1 month.

Handling - maybe every other day or so, sometimes because he climbing out when I'm trying to put his feeders in ?

Feeding - I feed him in first part of the day and remove feeders he hasn't eaten by early afternoon. He ate a few crickets, but lost interest. He will eat super worms, but likes to have the dish held for him while he eats, so that's a bit of a pain. He LOVES wax worms, and black soldier fly larva. He is TERRIFIED of horn worms (weirdo?) and showed ZERO interest in butterworms, but hasn't tried one yet. I've just gotten discoid roaches, but he's shedding and doesn't want anything right now.

Gut-loading superworms and roaches with Flukers cricket quencher with calcium, mustard greens, and carrots

Supplements - Dusting with repashey calcium plus daily and zoo med calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks

Watering - he has a monsoon mini mister on a timer. It is scheduled to go off 3 times a day, 4 hours apart for 30 seconds. He also has a dripper that he sits under, letting the water drip on his head, then he drinks the water when it runs off. He does regularly drink water from the leaves, especially first thing in the morning. I use tap water with Prime water conditioner in both the mister and the dripper. I also have a smaller reptibreeze set up for him to get extra hydration weekly in the shower.

Fecal Description - his latest (which was this morning) was a cream color urate, followed by a dark reddish color (which also seemed to be urate), then a normal looking feces (no undigested feeders or anything odd). I've not had him tested for parasites History - I got him from someone who was rehoming him due to her having an adult male Panther that needed more attention than she had for both of them

Cage Info:

Cage Type - 18x18x36h screen reptibreeze. The back and one of the sides has a hard plastic panel on the outside to help with humidity level and temperature in the cage

Lighting - Strip lighting: Zoomed reptisun T5 HO bulb, Flukers sun dome reptile lamp with ZooMed 100w daylight heat bulb. Lights are on a timer. On for 12 hours. Off for 12 hours. 7:30am-7:30pm /on

Temperature - basking temperature in the upper 80s. To measure the basking temp, I have a Zoo Med digital thermometer in the cage that is positioned on the branch at the point highest for him. Ambient temperatures range from 69 to 75, which is based on the thermostat in the house Florida "winters" make for difficult temperature regulating. Nights temps are no lower than 67, but no warmer than 75.

Humidity - I haven't checked humidity levels, but in Florida creating humidity is never a problem. However, I do have 2 sides of his cage enclosed on the outside rather than all open to help keep more humidity in.

Plants - one large corn plant with pothos at the bottom, plus fake plants around sides for added foliage

Placement - The cage is in a spare bedroom. No traffic. No fans. The to top the cage is approximately 5ft off the floor

Location - Florida

Current Problem - he started closing his right eye late in the evening and that eye has gradually gotten less "hydrated" looking that his left eye. He seems to be able to see fine with both eyes, and they look clear, but the right eye getting less bulgy looking is concerning.

There is also a really strange spot on his back, to the right of his spine. It looks almost black like a burn, but I'm 99.9%sure it's not! The dark spot has yellow around it, and now that he's shedding it's really looks bad!
 

Attachments

  • 20200229_154405.jpg
    20200229_154405.jpg
    326.9 KB · Views: 147
  • 20200304_084902.jpg
    20200304_084902.jpg
    121.9 KB · Views: 166
  • 20200304_165053.jpg
    20200304_165053.jpg
    172.9 KB · Views: 140
You are giving him way too much D3. Repashy Calcium Plus has a full dose of D3 in it it should only be given every two weeks. You need to switch to a plain calcium product for daily use.
 
Omg! I swear I read those ingredients at least 3 times and couldn't find vitamin D anywhere, but now I see it!
Our stores around here strangely sell the ZooMed calcium WITH D3, but no one carries WITHOUT D3. They have other brands, all WITH D3.

I did find it at a mom and pop store, nearly 50 miles away, so now I have it ?

I guess it's a really good thing he hasn't been very interested in eating much ?
 
It happens to a lot of people I wish it was labeled better. There is info in this blog that may help you if he was on it for very long. D3 Poisoning

I JUST finished reading that and flagged it!

I hope I haven't caused him any damage in the 4 weeks, considering he hasn't had it every day, but obviously more than twice ?

Any I'm not new, but couldn't find the zoomed with the D3 like I had before. So so so maddening ?
 
I can't say for sure if the dark spot is related to the D3 or not. Sometimes excess D3 causes the end of the tail to wither. Poor appetite and possibly the eye problem are D3 related.
 
I was just trying to figure out when I got that stuff.
I've had him 4 weeks. I got that supplement 3 weeks ago (the first week I had some supplement left from my other cham).
He was picky about his feeders from the beginning.
There have been many days he just didn't eat at all.
Some days he ate 2, maybe 3 superworms, but other days nothing.
Then 2 crickets. Then none. Those were dusted.
He's had wax worms and BSFL without any supplement.
so out of those 21 days, maybe 10 or so?
 
Do you know anything about what he was getting before you got him?

I know she was giving him supers as his feeder, and she said she was supplementing daily with calcium without d3 and twice a month with d3.

She was very careful not to rehome him with someone who had never had a chameleon before.

I feel awful, not to mention stupid, about this!
 
It is a very common error. Superworms are a very poor diet betters a treat than a staple.
So he never had a multivitamin before you gave him the Repashy.
Hopefully fasting him for a few days with access to water and then starting him over on a sensible routine will get him thru this. Post pictures of that area after he sheds. Obviously if he takes a down turn at all go see a veterinarian. Do you have one you like?
 
It is a very common error. Superworms are a very poor diet betters a treat than a staple.
So he never had a multivitamin before you gave him the Repashy.
Hopefully fasting him for a few days with access to water and then starting him over on a sensible routine will get him thru this. Post pictures of that area after he sheds. Obviously if he takes a down turn at all go see a veterinarian. Do you have one you like?

I'm sure she didn't give him any multivitamin, and I've learned here too that supers are not food, but treats. That's why I got him the discoids (dubias are illegal in Florida ?). My Boggs that I lost had a tounge problem from mbd so I pulled the legs off crickets and put them in his cup ?

The strange thing about that spot is that he's very yellow around it, but that's the only yellow on him unless he's sleeping. It wasn't that way when I got him. It just got dark and it seemed like it's old shed that got stuck, which is actually another interesting point. When I got him 4 weeks ago he had that dusky look like they get when they're about to shed. He stayed that way until yesterday! I'm pretty sure that's not normal either.

I do have a vet here that seems to know her reptiles so if I need to, I'll take him in. Right now he's dragging himself around trying to get the shed off his feet and all those hard to reach places, so it's hard to tell what's normal behavior ?
 
Our stores around here strangely sell the ZooMed calcium WITH D3, but no one carries WITHOUT D3. They have other brands, all WITH D3.

Because most stores have no clue about D3 supplementation at all, particularly for chameleons. They may not even realize the difference in the products they ordered from their whole supplier.

IMHO, this spot may well be a thermal burn. They can take a while to show, and often there will be a lighter ring of color around the edges. When exactly it occurred (in the previous owner's care or yours) hard to say, but your temps don't look bad. You don't necessarily know what temps his previous owner set. If there was a cold snap he could have parked himself under a basking light longer than he normally would and burned himself. Chams actually can't detect when their skin is getting overheated before it burns very well. They are basking to warm up their internal organs...and their skin takes the brunt of it especially along their spine and under the focused more intense spots of heat our indoor cages provide. They tend to move out of the heat once their insides reach operating temp. Classic spot for a burn unfortunately. Burns are treatable...get some Silvadene burn cream from your vet. It will protect the damaged skin from secondary infection and help it heal. Depending on how deep the tissue damage goes he might lose a couple of spines.
 
Last edited:
Check in the hermit crab section, I found my calcium there, and it was a VERY fine powder that works great!
Something else you can do is wash, dry, and powder eggshells. Pure calcium.
 
Because most stores have no clue about D3 supplementation at all, particularly for chameleons. They may not even realize the difference in the products they ordered from their whole supplier.

IMHO, this spot may well be a thermal burn. They can take a while to show, and often there will be a lighter ring of color around the edges. When exactly it occurred (in the previous owner's care or yours) hard to say, but your temps don't look bad. You don't necessarily know what temps his previous owner set. If there was a cold snap he could have parked himself under a basking light longer than he normally would and burned himself. Chams actually can't detect when their skin is getting overheated before it burns very well. They are basking to warm up their internal organs...and their skin takes the brunt of it especially along their spine and under the focused more intense spots of heat our indoor cages provide. They tend to move out of the heat once their insides reach operating temp. Classic spot for a burn unfortunately. Burns are treatable...get some Silvadene burn cream from your vet. It will protect the damaged skin from secondary infection and help it heal. Depending on how deep the tissue damage goes he might lose a couple of spines.


I think our stores cater to bearded dragons, not chameleons, and I'm guessing they need d3, but that's just a guess. But for sure they don't know about chameleons!

Thanks fot the thoughts on that spot. He's almost done shedding, except that spot and a few other little places on his head and feet, but he's been working hard to get it all off.

I'll get him checked out first of the week and hopefully it won't be permanent damage ?
 
Back
Top Bottom