Worried about my Cham!
- Thread starter Ezrool
- Start date
brooklynelizabeth
New Member
I am not trying to take all the negative responses personally, but negative responses should be kept to themselves, this Forum was created to help others not put them down. Should we all fear posting stuff because of slander. As i said i can completely understand the passion, but common everyone, Ez means well, and im sure he will do just fine without the negative responses.
gguidr7
New Member
I was being facetious towards "audiboi." The latter part of my post was an actual question. If this setup is as dangerous as some are saying it is, advice would be much more beneficial than these unhelpful outcries... I'm new too and would like to know what should be improved.
No malice intended. Just logic.
No malice intended. Just logic.
brooklynelizabeth
New Member
I was being facetious towards "audiboi." The latter part of my post was an actual question. If this setup is as dangerous as some are saying it is, advice would be much more beneficial than these unhelpful outcries... I'm new too and would like to know what should be improved.
No malice intended. Just logic.
LOL...i was agreeing with you, i support your comment, lol i should have let you know that while quoting you. Im new also, and when i asked for help regarding my over weight cham i was bombarded with nothing but helpful suggestions and comments. Thats why i told Ez to seek out help, and when he was put down i got a little upset
Anyway, i was agreeing with you lol, should have said something in regards 
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
May I make another plea about posts? Slow those fingers down, take a deep breath before ranting, and type more carefully folks. A lot of this thread was jibberish (on top of the expected language problem). Most of us are more than happy to help, but if I can't understand you most likely I'll be moving on to another message.
Thanks from a middle-aged cham lover.
Thanks from a middle-aged cham lover.
Yea, just want some help with my Cham
I wouldn't sign up her, ask questions and stuff to NOT care about my Cham.. Just need some help so I can improve her enclosure etc
The bask light bulb thingie is on top of the cage now, and there's more bushier on one side so she can hide better etc
Also, I sprayed her a little easy with the sprayer, and hot water so it became warm. She seems to like it, hanging there with her green colours just enjoying the warm water! She started drinking from it also, I'm 100% sure it wasn't hissing or anything like that
I wouldn't sign up her, ask questions and stuff to NOT care about my Cham.. Just need some help so I can improve her enclosure etc
The bask light bulb thingie is on top of the cage now, and there's more bushier on one side so she can hide better etc
Also, I sprayed her a little easy with the sprayer, and hot water so it became warm. She seems to like it, hanging there with her green colours just enjoying the warm water! She started drinking from it also, I'm 100% sure it wasn't hissing or anything like that
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
I know, and did have a couple early on in the thread. For some reason I can't see the pics. Had to go on the descriptions.
gguidr7
New Member
laurie
Retired Moderator
Hello new person
Ezrool welcome to the forum. We do have all kinds of people here but you will learn the information you need. Just forget the stuff that isn't helpful if you can.
First everyone jumped because you have your cham in glass. I have kept chams in glass and so have many others, it is totally ok. Also we don't know where you live so glass may be the best way to keep your chameleon. We can't know that without knowing where you are from, if you want to tell us. A few countries do not allow chameleons and those people choose not to say where they are from - so would I.
There are some issues with your set up that need a bit of work but you have a good start. Chameleons like to climb so when you can get live plants that are safe for chameleons, it will help a lot. You are moving the light and that is good. I would also remove the water dish as chameleons won't usually drink from a dish. Just the misting and the dripper will meet her water needs. If her eyes look at all sunk in during the day offer more water, it is an easy way to fix it.
What is the size of your terrarium? She may need a larger one later but we can deal with that later. Do you know how old she is? That will help knowing if she might lay eggs that are not fertile.
For now start fixing what you can & relax and enjoy her and the forum.
Ezrool welcome to the forum. We do have all kinds of people here but you will learn the information you need. Just forget the stuff that isn't helpful if you can.
First everyone jumped because you have your cham in glass. I have kept chams in glass and so have many others, it is totally ok. Also we don't know where you live so glass may be the best way to keep your chameleon. We can't know that without knowing where you are from, if you want to tell us. A few countries do not allow chameleons and those people choose not to say where they are from - so would I.
There are some issues with your set up that need a bit of work but you have a good start. Chameleons like to climb so when you can get live plants that are safe for chameleons, it will help a lot. You are moving the light and that is good. I would also remove the water dish as chameleons won't usually drink from a dish. Just the misting and the dripper will meet her water needs. If her eyes look at all sunk in during the day offer more water, it is an easy way to fix it.
What is the size of your terrarium? She may need a larger one later but we can deal with that later. Do you know how old she is? That will help knowing if she might lay eggs that are not fertile.
For now start fixing what you can & relax and enjoy her and the forum.
jessica
Avid Member
Hi Peter and welcome to the forum!
Are you in Sweden? I only ask because you mentioned the Swedish forum in an earlier post
I have a link to a helpful blog but if you are in Sweden I am not sure if the same products are available but at least it will give you a guide on temps, feeding schedules, light schedules, suppliments and such.
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! Good luck with your little one
Are you in Sweden? I only ask because you mentioned the Swedish forum in an earlier post
I have a link to a helpful blog but if you are in Sweden I am not sure if the same products are available but at least it will give you a guide on temps, feeding schedules, light schedules, suppliments and such.
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! Good luck with your little one
Ezrool welcome to the forum. We do have all kinds of people here but you will learn the information you need. Just forget the stuff that isn't helpful if you can.
First everyone jumped because you have your cham in glass. I have kept chams in glass and so have many others, it is totally ok. Also we don't know where you live so glass may be the best way to keep your chameleon. We can't know that without knowing where you are from, if you want to tell us. A few countries do not allow chameleons and those people choose not to say where they are from - so would I.
There are some issues with your set up that need a bit of work but you have a good start. Chameleons like to climb so when you can get live plants that are safe for chameleons, it will help a lot. You are moving the light and that is good. I would also remove the water dish as chameleons won't usually drink from a dish. Just the misting and the dripper will meet her water needs. If her eyes look at all sunk in during the day offer more water, it is an easy way to fix it.
What is the size of your terrarium? She may need a larger one later but we can deal with that later. Do you know how old she is? That will help knowing if she might lay eggs that are not fertile.
For now start fixing what you can & relax and enjoy her and the forum.
Yeah, starting with a glass terrarium... I will build a bigger cage when she's older. I live in Sweden, and the winter here is REALLY cold. But I've got a oil heating element thingie and I like it warm in my room, really warm.. so I don't think the cage will be any problem. Tho I don't know how everything will be after we moved.
Live plants will be fixed as soon as possible, for climbing and the water thingie! And plants you could recommend? (I'm not that good with plants and stuff hehe)
Her eyes are just fine! Found a "new way" to get her water, thanks to the people here at the forum!
Spraying slightly with a big cone of spray, with hot water (So it becomes like, warm when I spray). It really looks like she likes it, and she opens her mouth just a bit like she's drinking... I'm 100% sure it's not a hiss or anything hehe, she really seem to like it! Also spraying the big bush at the back.
The water dish is just for the dripper to drip in. Got "newspaper" as floor at the moment, and it's kinda messy if it gets wet. Had some dirt thing before that and well, it was always wet and never got dry, so I guess too much of that could've been a bad ending.
I don't know for sure how old she is... Sadly.. I hope the pet shop knows. I'll text her tomorrow since it's 01:06 AM in Sweden.
But she's around 5-7 months.
Also, shedding is a good sign right?
She just did that 2 days ago, and it's like.. Finished I think hehe.
Thanks alot for the reply, and thanks to you too Jessica!
People with your kind of attitude is exactly what cheers me up!
(Sorry for all the dots and stuff, can get quite messy sometimes)
/Peter
Pilotman800
New Member
Not to worry Peter, you are on the way and we are all here to help.
Agreed, thats what were here for.
Peter, it seems like your cham is friendly, AND he/she is in the "teenage" years. (You said 5-7 months old) I think you got lucky, a lot of chams get moody in their "teenage" years.
Agreed, thats what were here for.
Peter, it seems like your cham is friendly, AND he/she is in the "teenage" years. (You said 5-7 months old) I think you got lucky, a lot of chams get moody in their "teenage" years.
Hehe noticed!
She tried to crawl up on my face... Picked her up and she was like "HISSSS!! RELEASE ME!!!!".Really gentle when I pick her up, take one finger under her belly and the other one so she walks up on my hand etc, never pulling her... Don't dare because of her claws etc.
I just let her out on a huge hibiscus beside my computer chair while I was fixing some things with the terrarium. She was like glowing of happiness... Chewing on the leaves and just climbed around and enjoyed it.
Getting a small hibiscus in the cake next week!
Also, her urate is all white with like 5-10% yellow (I heard it's quite normal)!!!
Going to fix some background for the sides of the terrarium so she doesn't try to climb on the glass etc. The glass can't hurt the chams claws can they?
And the lamp is now above the cage! And there's some leaves hanging down close to the lamp, and one of those vines! (Think that's the correct word haha).
Alot of improvements and there will be more.
Will add a hibiscus, buying a REAL mister sprayer (Later on a mister machine) and next week I'll be buying silkworms and waxworms/waxmoths!
I thank all of you so much for the help for your knowledge how to make my Chameleon feel better!
Edit: Also removed that big log wood thingie... So there's like, 1 bush on each side and a vine in the middle... Looks a bit empty on the ground tho but yeah! On the night she sits in the big bushes to the left, just looking at me when I'm going to sleep haha
Welcome to the world of chameleons!
Regarding a place for her to dig to lay eggs...I recommend putting an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled almost full of slightly moist washed playsand in the cage so she can dig when necessary. Once she starts digging, she can be moved to a bigger container, but most female veileds will lay the eggs in the container in the cage without any problem.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Regarding a place for her to dig to lay eggs...I recommend putting an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled almost full of slightly moist washed playsand in the cage so she can dig when necessary. Once she starts digging, she can be moved to a bigger container, but most female veileds will lay the eggs in the container in the cage without any problem.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Thanks!
yeah it's really really helpfulSo you suggest I just put a small box i in the corner of the cage, like... Behind some plants? With playsand in it, and spray a bit water on it etc?
When you say dust twice a month... You mean dust the insects right before I give them to my Cham?
Or like, a month before that? (Guess not but still want to be sure)
I'll be buying waxworms/waxmoths, hornworms and silkworms this week.
The superworms, that's those zhoobobas(?) thingies? Or is it another kind of worms?
