Wrinkled skin

Wyattherp

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Ambilobe male 4-5 mo old Ive had him 3 weeks
  • Handling - He has been out a few times
  • Feeding - Weve tried hand/tongs (took a few off the tongs but no hand,free range crickets,magnetic food bowl? started with 5 dusted crickets and have put 2 dubias and 3 super worms in the bowl? feeding about an hour after he wakes up (approx 9 am) Then trying again in the early afternoon. Gut loading with fruit and veggis ( carrot,collards,oranges?
  • Supplements - repticalc Calcium daily D3 twice monthly
  • Watering - Hand misting 3 times daily for about 3 minutes and running a dripper for 15-20 min a couple times a day I see him drink a lot
  • Fecal Description - His droppings are brown and solid with a pale white urate on the end. As far as a know he has not been tested ( Ill email the breeder)
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen
  • Lighting - Zoomed 5.0 T5 HO UVD tube and hood,60 watt incandescent with an 8.5" dome about 8" from basking spot
  • Temperature - Basking spot is currently 82 not sure of the overnight temps. I do about 10 hours on 14 off using a duel Themo/Hygro near the basking spot
  • Humidity -running a little low near the top of the enclosure 45-60% ( I ordered another hygro for the middle of the enclosure
  • Plants - Pothos and Umbrella
  • Placement Living room corner,Were clearing space for him in a room with less traffic,No vents around
  • Location - Tampa,FL

Current Problem He seems very winkled, My guess is that he has a shed coming but I just wanted to make sure. He is eating very well (Crickets,Super worms,Silkies,Hornworms) and basking tilted a little to one side then the other .
 
This is him about a week and a half ago
 

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Him today ( he seems to hate having his pick taken)
 

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Handsome boy,and my guess with the wrinkle skin that he is about to shed as u described
Increase ur hand mist with lukewarm water to help him shed.
 
That tenting of the skin (when it doesn't return to normal quickly) can be a sign of severe dehydration. Their skin can also do that when they are about to shed. Nothing about your pictures other than the poor skin turgor (the wrinkles) suggests dehydration so I'm inclined to agree with Alphakenc. Just to be on the safe side, though, I would treat him as if he were dehydrated and increase your misting/hydration. It won't hurt. You'll know in a few days. Keep an eye on how full he is around his spine, pelvis and eyes. Dehydration shows up there often before it shows up in the urates. By the way, he is a very handsome fellow.
 
Thanks all. He started his shed! I didn't think he would have been dehydrated because he is such a good drinker. He likes to pull the leaves down and let the water run into his mouth. It's pretty adorable.
 
Thanks all. He started his shed! I didn't think he would have been dehydrated because he is such a good drinker. He likes to pull the leaves down and let the water run into his mouth. It's pretty adorable.
Oh great,thats is one smart cham for the drinking part,thanks for the reply.
 
Can you post a picture of your terrerium?
How big are the super worms you feed the chameleon? If he's hesitant about eating while he's aware you're there try putting the cricket in the trees same with worms it helps with wild instincts and let's them hunt I put meal worms and wax worms in my chameleons trees and vines
 
And you've had him for three weeks ? Maybe the little guy is still s bit unsure if you and that's why he won't take them off your hand be patient with him he'll come around !
 
Can you post a picture of your terrerium?
How big are the super worms you feed the chameleon? If he's hesitant about eating while he's aware you're there try putting the cricket in the trees same with worms it helps with wild instincts and let's them hunt I put meal worms and wax worms in my chameleons trees and vines
I just tried this method yesterday with a super worm. I couldn't get the timing right with my Cham shooting and me letting go with the forceps(the really big super worms creep me out, can't hand feed them) so I put one on an ivy leaf and she got it real quick.
 
I just tried this method yesterday with a super worm. I couldn't get the timing right with my Cham shooting and me letting go with the forceps(the really big super worms creep me out, can't hand feed them) so I put one on an ivy leaf and she got it real quick.
The thing I go by is never bigger than the space of the eyes super worms bite I do believe hornworms sting so be carful the super worms don't crawl on the chameleon if it bites the Cham it can cause problems shedding etc
 
The thing I go by is never bigger than the space of the eyes super worms bite I do believe hornworms sting so be carful the super worms don't crawl on the chameleon if it bites the Cham it can cause problems shedding etc
Yes, biting is my fear. I was told to squeeze their head (super worms) with the forceps to kinda stun them, and that has worked really well. She loves hornworms tho, no problem with them. I've done 2 bigger super worms like this with no problems. She happily crunches them down. I'll post a pic of a big one...
 
I don't like them! They creep me out, so squeezing their heads has worked well so far, I don't think they can't bite after that....
image.jpeg
 
I'll hand feed crickets and any other worm all day but these have gotten big. I don't think the pic does it justice! Lol
 
If superworms are ever crawling on your chameleon there is something seriously wrong with your cage. I've been feeding superworms for years and never have seen that happen even once. They are not explorer type insects. They hide. That's why it's a good idea to either hand feed them or stick them on the screen close by.
Also ripping off there face is not nessicary. At all. Chameleons are natural born bug killing specialist.
I also never gauge there food from how big the space is between there eyes. I base it on how big the chameleon is overall. I've never ever had one single baby die from food being to big. I actually start off my hatchlings on 1/4 crickets. Every once in a while I'll buy 1/8 inch if there is a baby that's smaller than the rest but that's it.
There is a ton of bad information out there to be read. Trust me everysingle care sheet is not accurate.
I never ever give advice off something that I read or someone told me. Every bit of advise I give are from my own experiences
 
He takes some off the tongs but he seems to like to hunt. I free range the crickets (1/2-3/4) and put the supers on the side of the enclosure. Silkies and horns I put on a leaf and he goes and gets them when he's ready.
 
No way I'd let super worms go in my chams enclosure. I put them on a leaf or in her cup, or hold it in tongs for her. Crickets I like to put on the side of her enclosure so she can hunt them. Hornworms barely make it too far on a vine before she gets them. Do they really sting? I don't think so. My brother and I used to play with hornworms all the time as kids and never once had them "sting". They do kinda nibble at your hand, but that's nothing....
 
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