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Fiberglass is alright if you are not going to have feeders loose in the enclosure.. Crickets will chew through plastic and fiberglass. If you are then you will need aluminum screen

LOL, yeah a little out date ;) I did use melamine for the back and bottom but then covered it with a white plastic and siliconed all the seams like crazy. that plus the expanding foam covering all the back there should be no water touching it at all.. Looking back I should of just used 1/2"...

Don't get your expectations to high :P the background will be brown lol.. I won't be able to get any decent live plants until the weather warms up and the garden centres open up. Still have to install the conduits for the digital thermometers and hygrometers.. Hoping to get the Foam sprayed...

Ok, thought I'd update the build since I was finally able to get to do a bit more to it. Mounted the wood and installed the vents. added a few vines, still more to go. Just waiting for the silicone to dry then I'll be putting the great stuff in..

after staining it let it air out for a couple days, then apply 3-4 coat of varnish over the stain. then let it air out for at least a week. Also pine is very soft, you will want to put a wood conditioner on it before applying the stain or it will come out blotchy

A MistKing is a great investment.. It comes with a digital timer that you can program to the second, 30 minutes is a lot of water for an enclosure, right now I set it for 45-60 seconds 5 times a day and have to dry out the bottom of the enclosure every other day since its a zoomed glass...

$299 for my 5 month male Red Bar Ambilobe.. A Veiled around here is $89

When it comes to enclosures, bigger is better, and taller is better than wider.. Even that large cage is only 36" high and 18" deep, you will want 48" high since chameleons like to be as high as possible.

I'm using a glass/wooden viv, hard enough to keep the humidity high in it let alone a mesh enclosure and I have a little humidifier in the enclosure.. I like the look of a wooden enclosure as well, only downside with a wooden/glass one is they are A LOT more money than a screen one, and A LOT...

you could use the uvb 10.0 if its heavily planted.. The UVB bulb isn't going to help the plants though, you need a 6500k light for them

yes, and calcium without D3 with every feeding

A young cham should eat every day and as much as she will eat in 20 mins or so, and dust the insects with calcium without D3 every feeding, being a female she is going to need all the calcium she can get for when she starts forming eggs. feed her multivitamins and calcium with D3 twice a month...

Starter is fine, you can run up to 10 nozzles or something with them, so unless you are going to start breeding and have 5+ cages the starter is enough, nice having two nozzles though, so pick up and extra one or two

depends on the age and the breed of chameleon you have..

a warm bath in shallow water may loosen it up

Ok.. first.. You need to supplement more.. Calcium with no D3 should be used EVERY feeding, D3 twice a month, and multivitamins twice a month. Misting the cage is a must every couple of hours to promote drinking, allowing to dry out between mistings. You should get some dry cricket gutload, kale...

That won't work.. that would leave the top glass which wont let air circulate, and the UVB from your lights doesn't penetrate glass. You can't put the lights inside because they are too hot and will burn the cham.. you can drill the glass on the bottom with the proper drill bit and set up a...

It's a sticky on the first page of the Health clinic page. https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/

The white crust stuff is just salt, veiled chameleons excrete excess salts through the nostrils. As far as her sitting there you'll need to fill out the "how to ask for help" form so we can see all the variables

That will be alright for awhile, but not for anything bigger than a small enclosure.. You'll need to get a larger top.. most of us around here use linear lube lights 24" long for UVB.