Worms can be highly addictive to chams, which is why most will feed them as treats a couple of times a week. I would recommend adding more variety to his diet, so he doesn't grow tired of eating the same feeders. You have silkworms, hornworms, roaches, butterworms, phoenix worms, etc.Also, don't...
You should be getting a tracking order number as soon as your chameleon is shipped. Since it's a live animal, I would imagine it being an overnight kind of deal, so typically the next day. Make sure you check your email.
I'd recommend buying a bag of bug buffet or cricket crack from the Chameleon Food section on here. Nick Barta sells them by the pound, and that's all you'll really need to last you several months. It's made up of all sorts of healthy ingredients and the best part is you can sprinkle them on...
Yes, this is perfectly normal. My guy actually does' both and they tend to drink when no one is looking. The best way to determine hydration is by the color of their urates. White means they are hydrated, while an orange urate is a sign of dehydration. A slightly tinted orange is also Okay.
Hello, Mayagonz
Unfortunately, these little guys can be very tricky to sex when they are younger. I went to the website and backwater reptile's states...
"Sexing Your Panther Chameleon
Please feel free to request a male or female lizard (or any combination thereof) when you order our medium...
Absolutely! These amazing creatures are more than just pets. You form a bond with them and want to feed them as if they were your own kids :D Silkworms and hornworms grow fairly quick, so they will only last a couple of weeks before they pupate. You can definitely sprinkle the dry gutload on...
Roaches aren't bad at all and are very easy to gut-load. If you're feeding superworms, I would just completely do away with mealworms. Both however, should be fed as treats. Variety is key though, and the expenses are expected with owning a cham. My guy gets crickets, roaches, phoenix worms...
You should be gut-loading with more than just carrots. Take a look at the link below.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/entry/feeder-nutrition-amp-gutloading.75/
I also second lightyourreptiles.com or even canvaschams. The arcadia d3 bulbs a long with a double light fixture has worked wonders for me. The cage is much brighter and my cham has really enjoyed his arcadia uvb bulb in comparison to the repti-sun I was using before.
Honestly, they are one of the best feeders without any kind of gut-load, very high in calcium. I buy the actual phoenix worm brand and the instructions states to not feed them at all, but to only add a couple drops of water if the substrate is dry. I basically gut-load all of my other feeders...
Repashy's Calcium Plus is the only d3 supplement I am aware of that is safe for daily dusting. I'm not too familiar with Sticky Tongue Farms, but on the website it says to use at every third feeding.
How many crickets are you feeding him everyday? Also, d3 is suppose to be given twice a month. Is the sticky tongue farm d3 the only supplement you are dusting your feeders with?
--I noticed the red lamp at the bottom of the cage. Are you keeping that on at night as well?
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This is quite sad. I don't believe I've ever seen a panther lose its color completely. At his current age, he should be showing his full coloration! I am interested to hear others chime in as to what may be the cause of it all.
Panthers will do perfectly fine with a basking area of 86-90...