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Nope, they don't. As a lot of reptiles, they need days to digest living in an average cage with different temperature stages. There are studies going on about this, it's tested with certain undigestible colours given via feeders. Did you similar studies to prove the opposite? They're not as fast...

That's dangerous, cause you can't really see it. If the casque's bulging and the tail's completely round, they're alread on best way to have a fat liver and renal damage. You shouldn't wait for this. You don't see the abdominal fatpad from the outside, but they grow fast by feeding without...

That's no good choice. Bearded dragons can be overfed easily and quickly with insects, although they can live healthier completely without or hardly any. Most bearded dragons I'd opened 'til now (eggbound or for other reasons they needed an operation) had fat livers and died under age of 10...

If your chameleon's ill, you need to find the reason. The fluid you're giving him won't solve the problem as long as it isn't only dehydration (vitamins don't survive a long time inside fluids). As soon as you recognize your chameleon looks ill, he's at a point of illness he can't hide it...

Seeing the pictures, he's not fine at all. Really not, you can't make a healthy chameleon looking like this by taking the picture in any strange way. Rib fractures and deformations need to be taken seriously, otherwise the chameleon will be a very severe case at the vet's soon.

No, it is not and should not. A young healthy chameleon who doesn't want to eat anymore is full, which means overfed. Many owners make this mistake and it can shorten life of your chameleons easily. In my opinion, it's one of the most made faults in chameleon keeping. See this thread and this...

Did you notice the bumps on the ribs in your last picture? Looks like several calluses due to broken ribs. His forearms look too round-shaped, too and his mouth isn't closing properly. All those symptoms could be signs for a lack of calcium and vitamin D3. And there's a huge bump right in front...

The problem about this could be she already developped really large abdominal fat pads. Once reached this level, it's often difficult to get the chameleons back to a restrictive fed stage cause they can live from those big fat pads a long, long time. That's why I always recommend to begin...

I don't think it's a problem made by supplementation, but by other parts of cage and keeping setup. There might be little differences that aren't noticed yet or such that may work inside the one owner's house, but don't inside another. Additionally, he seems to have a sheeding problem (no...

Was the chameleon's eye flushed by the vet? Was the reason for the eye issue found, an infection, foreign body inside, a fistula from oral cavity...? Was a blood sample or a swab of the flush fluid done to see whether there's an infection going on or not? If not, those examinations should be...

Your chameleon has been overfed 'til now, which should be changed immediately. As usual, even the half of the food amount she ate would be too much. The more you feed, the more eggs she will lay and - sadly - the shorter she will live. Especially females should be fed very restrictively. You...

Added quickly: I took a look at the ARAV-website, and you actually seem to have a vet specialized in reptiles in Hong Kong: http://www.arav.org/find-a-vet/#HongKong

Then you'd might ask your vet about calling a herp vet to advice via phone if there's no option to travel to a reptile vet. This is nothing you can treat at home properly without diagnosis and opportunities to flush, swab etc.

For those who don't want to spend a lot of money, but would like to read more: Maybe you got a university or state library nearby. Those often have access to lots of publications and you can get copys or online access for little money. I got lots of papers this way, e.g. most of those mentioned...

And you really think he's eating too little sometimes? I would definitely cut down feeding for an eleven month old chameleon. Take a look at this thread.

Those eyedrops probably won't help in this case. You need to visit a reptile vet with your chameleon. She already has a periorbital edema and the bulbus seems to be sunken in. Your vet can flush the eye, get a swab and take a blood sample to find the reason for this issue. It might be an eye...

Of cause Chamaeleo chameleon (should be "common chameleon" over here) is protected. They belong to CITES appendage II, but appendage A in wildlife trade legislation of the European Union.

It's not only ok, it's necessary to keep them healthy and long living. If a healthy chameleon always stops eating before the cup's empty, you're still feeding too much. They should never be "full" (hand feeding is another thing, cause some chameleons don't like to take feeders from human hands).

Another nice little male, an adult Trioceros jacksonii jacksonii. It's a wild caught with an old fractured rib.

Why not using eatable plants like hibiscus or indian cress? They're nice decoration inside cages, too. Colourful flowers are often more attactive to veileds. And I'm sure your chameleon would like to eat leaves (as he already does) rather than having a "fruit on a string" somewhere.