My $.02
I just wanted to contribute because of the differences among some of us "old-timers." I like what kinyonga said, that what works for some may not work for or be preferred by others. 1st, I have also only used vermiculite. Second, although I've realized it isn't "natural" I was told early on to put holes in the lid. I've always used quite a few small holes actually. Probably like 15 pin-head size holes. At this point, I've found a method that has worked very well and probably won't change it. I suspect it could have something to do with the higher humidity where I live. Or just that I do check on the eggs often enough to make sure problems can be caught before causing actual damage to the eggs. Again, when eggs look dented or the verm seems too dry you can add water to the vermiculite. I use an eye dropper or syringe.
As to the eggs. I believe a good egg is a pretty hardy, tolerant thing. As long as they aren't cooked, frozen, dried out, or drowned a good egg will hatch. Although I do my best to be careful, I know I've had condensation drops fall on many eggs that hatched without a problem. I dropped a clutch of C. quadricornis eggs during a move and hadn't marked the topsides. It was a long time ago but I only had a few eggs that didn't hatch. I've heard from other keepers the same thing. You don't want to rotate them like a chicken egg or anything, but if they get disoriented, there's a chance they will hatch if they're in a position that the embryo isn't smothered by the yolk.
Now the question. I've never had to deal with egg-binding so I am not that familiar with exactly where these eggs are at. How long does it take after the egg-laying time has passed for it to take the female's life? How long ago was that for apple's female? What does that imply about the "age" of the eggs he has? Are they a day old? Weeks?
