6 month old nosy be laid 27 eggs first clutch

[SonTigerPantherCham]

So, I don't ever plan on breeding chams. Did that with horses and there are wayyy too many bad quality horses out there, no need to breed any more.

My question is about not the age but bone growth and development, if their prime growth isup to 12 to 18 months, does breeding them younger take away the calcium needed to ensure strong, healthy bones?

After watching one of mine with mbd, if there is anything I can do to prevent it I would.(he came to me with it)

 

[kinyonga]

SonTigerPantherCham said..."After watching one of mine with mbd, if there is anything I can do to prevent it I would"...good husbandry normally will prevent it from happening.

Here's some information I hope will help you to understand it....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.

 

[a2zcreatures]

You got lucky she isn't dead or hurt! Just because she is receptive does not mean to breed her.. its like with human children. Just because they can breed at 11 years old doesn't mean its good for them. Any breeder who cares about his animals waits until they are ready.

 

[Ace]

You got lucky she isn't dead or hurt! Just because she is receptive does not mean to breed her.. its like with human children. Just because they can breed at 11 years old doesn't mean its good for them. Any breeder who cares about his animals waits until they are ready.

luck has nothing todo with it. if you know what you are doing, and know nearly everypossible scenario....chances are better the female would be alright than bad


to me, alot of things have to go wrong for this to be a truly bad thing
bad husbanry, small female, eggbound, nuttrient levels, lack of knowledge, etc

but he knew what to do and everything is fine, the what "if " is over and done


that doesnt mean i agree or propose to breed a female so early.....
i rather have the female longer to live, but then again either way a female breeder wont live that long after repetive fertile egg laying,

but i do agree it does depend in size and weight, and readiness....