Owl
New Member
i see every one eat and grow up pparent ,,,,approximate 20 to30 days
some of them going to dea !...
thank you !
Baby Panthers, going to dead !!!!!!!
- Thread starter Owl
- Start date
i see every one eat and grow up pparent ,,,,approximate 20 to30 days
some of them going to dea !...
thank you !
Owl
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Owl
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Owl
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Pilotman800
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VeiledChams
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camimom
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fluxlizard
Avid Member
It's not the age of the mother.
You are probably not getting enough of one of the following into them- calcium, vit d3, or a multivitamin. Most likely it's the d3 or the multivitamin that you need to increase. If they've been doing fine for 3 weeks before now- one of those is almost certainly the problem.
I'd put a 60 watt bulb over them for heat as well rather than something less than a 40. Maybe even a 75 because of the way you are hanging your light above the tubs. I'd also give each tub a separate heat light. If you do that- maybe a 40 or a 60 would be correct. But sharing like that- you need more.
Let them heat up, then mist them with water gently for a few seconds to get them blinking and eyes open. Feed immediately vitamin supplemented insects. Repeat every few hours until they are strong again, using a multivitamin 2x this week and then 1x every week or two after that while they are growing. Use calcium with d3 3x this week and a couple of times per week for the next month or so and then go back to whatever routine you feel comfortable with.
Make sure you mist only a small amount so the terrarium dries out between mistings. Too much constant dampness over time can also cause the problem you are describing. The towels at the bottom should dry out between.
If your day temperatures are warm enough placing them outdoors in sunlight for 30-60 minutes every day or two is a good idea as well.
You are probably not getting enough of one of the following into them- calcium, vit d3, or a multivitamin. Most likely it's the d3 or the multivitamin that you need to increase. If they've been doing fine for 3 weeks before now- one of those is almost certainly the problem.
I'd put a 60 watt bulb over them for heat as well rather than something less than a 40. Maybe even a 75 because of the way you are hanging your light above the tubs. I'd also give each tub a separate heat light. If you do that- maybe a 40 or a 60 would be correct. But sharing like that- you need more.
Let them heat up, then mist them with water gently for a few seconds to get them blinking and eyes open. Feed immediately vitamin supplemented insects. Repeat every few hours until they are strong again, using a multivitamin 2x this week and then 1x every week or two after that while they are growing. Use calcium with d3 3x this week and a couple of times per week for the next month or so and then go back to whatever routine you feel comfortable with.
Make sure you mist only a small amount so the terrarium dries out between mistings. Too much constant dampness over time can also cause the problem you are describing. The towels at the bottom should dry out between.
If your day temperatures are warm enough placing them outdoors in sunlight for 30-60 minutes every day or two is a good idea as well.
Last edited:
NORChameleons
New Member
What is the distance from the Uv-tube and to where the chameleons actually sit? Let me give you some info on uv-values from this tube.
A brand new tube of ReptiGlo 5.0 (measured after 90hours wich is the socalled burn-in time):
Distance from bulb: Values µW/cm²
0cm 350
10cm 99
15cm 54
20cm 36
25cm 26
30cm 17
35cm 14
After 5-6 months use the tube gives 10% of the measured values, and is close to useless. Normal Uv-values in F.pardalis natural habit ranges from 280-360 at the end of the raining season. Try to compare the natural uv-intensity to what many chameleons get in captivity, I have seen way to many sloppy solutions when it comes to the setup of uv-sources.
I always use both ReptiGlo 5.0 combined with ReptiGlo 2.0 for all my juveniles, with the distance never further than 30cm from the tubing and to the bottom of the terrarium. Also remember that a good reflector for the tube increases the values with aprow 30-35%.
A brand new tube of ReptiGlo 5.0 (measured after 90hours wich is the socalled burn-in time):
Distance from bulb: Values µW/cm²
0cm 350
10cm 99
15cm 54
20cm 36
25cm 26
30cm 17
35cm 14
After 5-6 months use the tube gives 10% of the measured values, and is close to useless. Normal Uv-values in F.pardalis natural habit ranges from 280-360 at the end of the raining season. Try to compare the natural uv-intensity to what many chameleons get in captivity, I have seen way to many sloppy solutions when it comes to the setup of uv-sources.
I always use both ReptiGlo 5.0 combined with ReptiGlo 2.0 for all my juveniles, with the distance never further than 30cm from the tubing and to the bottom of the terrarium. Also remember that a good reflector for the tube increases the values with aprow 30-35%.
NORChameleons
New Member
Solar Raptor wich is the superior choice when it comes to MVB (Mercury Vapor Bulb) has given out a 35W UVB spot bulb wich would be great for juveniles. The MVB give good uv-values up to 40-50 cm from the bulb, but not as good spread as the tubes.
What's the temperature at the spot closest to the light where they can sit?
You might want to make changes to your supplements and are you gutloading/feeding the crickets properly?
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
You might want to make changes to your supplements and are you gutloading/feeding the crickets properly?
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Owl
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Owl
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Owl
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Owl
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Owl
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Owl
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More and more baby Panthers, going to dead !!!!!!i am crazy！
https://www.chameleonforums.com/baby-panthers-going-dead-68944/
additional remarks：
More and more baby Panthers going to dead....
when they hatch ,they all health ,i can see they feed , grow up,and activity!
But,when they 20 to 30 days old,the problem come out:
some of them became languishment ,stepped flanerie , slacken-eyed....
anorexia ,.the color of their body is brown or orange yellow .
then they weakness and dehydrated ...
I need help ...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/baby-panthers-going-dead-68944/
additional remarks：
More and more baby Panthers going to dead....
when they hatch ,they all health ,i can see they feed , grow up,and activity!
But,when they 20 to 30 days old,the problem come out:
some of them became languishment ,stepped flanerie , slacken-eyed....
anorexia ,.the color of their body is brown or orange yellow .
then they weakness and dehydrated ...
I need help ...
SamanthaElle
New Member
one thing I noticed is that it looks like there is a pool of water underneath your paper towels. Thats probably making your humidity very very very high.
I went through a similar issue. I bought a 2 week old panther from a shop and they told me he needed a screen-less cage and to provide many mistings...the problem was that the water accumulated on the bottom making it unbearable for him to live in...
He started closing his eyes....so I immediately ran out and bought a screen cage to aid with the humidity issue....
He is now a happy 3 month old panther.
I would try to buy a cage for them with better ventilation to allow the cage to dry out in between mistings.
Hope you find a solution that works for you!
I went through a similar issue. I bought a 2 week old panther from a shop and they told me he needed a screen-less cage and to provide many mistings...the problem was that the water accumulated on the bottom making it unbearable for him to live in...
He started closing his eyes....so I immediately ran out and bought a screen cage to aid with the humidity issue....
He is now a happy 3 month old panther.
I would try to buy a cage for them with better ventilation to allow the cage to dry out in between mistings.
Hope you find a solution that works for you!
fluxlizard
Avid Member
Go back and re-read and reconsider my remarks. Been doing this for 20 years. I know what I'm talking about when it comes to your situation and understand your problem because early on I made the same mistakes... My advice would have helped turn things around for you.
