Biopods

S

shaggss

New Member
Hi All

New here and have done some research. I have read most posts about enclosures and understand the fundamentals.

I have just found these online and asking for your thoughts.

Thanks to all in advance!

http://www.biopod.com
 
It would likely be great for some of the smaller montane species. It doesn't seem like they supply a model that has any notable size to it.
 
If these are intended to be closed systems, doesn't it seem a little sad that the owner doesn't really contact the residents? A lot of the enjoyment I know I get from keeping chams is interacting with them and having them respond to me. Seems so closed off and isolated. If the owner doesn't want to maintain a cham's habitat why own one? One large enough to give a cham much quality of life, space to move around, and change to keep them stimulated would probably be hugely expensive.
 
Carlton said:
If these are intended to be closed systems, doesn't it seem a little sad that the owner doesn't really contact the residents? A lot of the enjoyment I know I get from keeping chams is interacting with them and having them respond to me. Seems so closed off and isolated. If the owner doesn't want to maintain a cham's habitat why own one? One large enough to give a cham much quality of life, space to move around, and change to keep them stimulated would probably be hugely expensive.
Click to expand...
I believe they have doors on most models. I assume (just by looking at this model) it could be used for Chameleons:
http://www.biopod.com/aqua-ii/

It's quite tall and wide for chams that aren't adults yet. However, I am not sure about the lightning, etc. o_o
 
Actually it would only be a good size for very young chameleons. Juveniles would feel cramped, so you wouldn't be able to keep them in there more than 2-3 months.
 
MIght be good for Pygmy Chameleons (Brookesia micra, Brookesia minima, Rieppeleon brevicaudatus, Rhampholeon marshalli, ect).
 
I looked at these before. And this one http://www.biopod.com/grand/ would work for most common Chameleons species, outside of like Mellers, Oustlets, and Parsons it would work.

For a Panther or a Veilied this would work great. However I considered these, look at the price tag and you will quickly change your mind lol.

I have done alot of research into this. So let me parrot alot of well known experts from what I have been told. Vertical cage height is a myth.

The reason the vertical cage height thing came about is the screen cages that were and are now marketed. You need a wide enough cage for the chameleon to move around horizontally. And chameleons need to be up high at eye level to feel safe.

When this "Rule" started the only suitable cages for chameleons was 24x24x48. So everyone said to buy that cage, due to the 24x24 not the 48, and to place it high so the height could help. Over years of this being repeated over and over, a game of telephone has skewed reality. You do not need a 48 inch tall cage, as a matter of fact a wider but not as tall cage is better in every way.

You can see this with a little searching. All of the Kammers cages, are 30 inches tall and 24 wide. They are one of the most repsected Panther breeders around. Dragonstrand makes and sells alot of The Atrium (use to be the only one, now it is the "Medium") It is in fact only 30 inches tall, that is fine as it is 30 inches wide which is what really matters. Hope this helps and doesn't ruffle too many feathers.

I do not say this out of nowhere. Do to my own cage height restrictions I study up on this. I PMed and had many chats in posts and PMs, with many reputable breeders and old school keepers. I researched old posts on this subject to get the true answer. As for myself, my entire chameleon room will have cages that are 30 tall, as from all the research I have found, what I said above is the facts, and I stand by them.

A great user here gave me a great piece of advice a while back. And made me realize I was doing something that really isnt a good idea. I was following the cult method and closing my mind to everything else. After hearing the harsh and needed advice, I have changed all my thoughts about chameleons. As I opened my brain to take in new info, and looked at Taboos in this hobby. To find that many of them are very far from truth. And in my opinion, a lot of the taboos, have reasons for existence that are far from what is parroted these days. Things have been skewed and changed so much that they hold no resemblance to there original reasoning.

In my personal journey, I went in parroting the same old thing. screen cage is a must, no substrate, 48 inch minimum for Panthers Veiled ect. I took this as I read it over and over, so I assumed it was best. Instead of doing the research and coming to a knowledgeable conclusion on my own.

I stand here today, getting my reptile room ready. And to see how drastic of a change was made after I opened my mind to new stuff. All my cages will now be 30 tall (aside from 2 male panthers, as I feel they need more Horizontal then I can provide, so I subbed them for vertical). They will be glass like, (not actually glass, but fully enclosed, like glass, with a vent). And they will have Bio Active substrate.

Sorry for the rant, I may or may not be a little buzzed :p.

And to the Aqua, if it was deeper than 15 inches I would call that workable, if it were maybe 17 inches. Kammers cages "The Forever Cage" are 24x17x30. You are losing 2 inches depth, however that isnt bad. You could keep a cham in there, it would be a tad crowded, but decent. A cacth however, if you do, do this. The basking spot still needs to be Eye level with you, so with the small cage you need a tall stand.


JGuinan007 said:
It has a LED UVB Diode! I'd love just to have that.
Click to expand...

No such thing has been invented yet. Anyone that says different (them) is lying.
 
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I have been obsessing over this cage. The grand (largest size) seemed to be a good size for a panther. No matter what many might say it, has a good height and a very good length, for the Chame to move about. I enjoy the fully automated system, yes it is enjoyable to continuously tweek a chameleons cage, but I do think because this cage uses the Internet. You are able to stabilize the environment very well. It is expensive, but because it is fully compact I do not see myself at least, purchasing other equipment in the future.
I did not buy it though, recently I found out it doesn't have a basking bulb. I have e-mailed Biopod, the only way to add a basking bulb is to install one inside the enclosure. Which I really didn't like.

But for chams, that don't need very warm temperatures via basking bulb. This would be amazing.
If it did have a basking bulb I would have bought many many many biopods.

Such innovations are what improve the hobby of chameleon keeping. Just think about people that had an Intrest in chams long before many of us, they had to 'keep-up' with the modern ways of reptile keeping, and through that they have been able to teach us the best ways in raising.

So Biopod, can be looked as the 'next' level of reptile keeping.

For all you know, in the future someone will be able to create a full replica of the Madagascar forest with a click of a button; and that would be excellent for chameleon keeping.
 
cyberlocc said:
I have done alot of research into this. So let me parrot alot of well known experts from what I have been told. Vertical cage height is a myth.

The reason the vertical cage height thing came about is the screen cages that were and are now marketed. You need a wide enough cage for the chameleon to move around horizontally. And chameleons need to be up high at eye level to feel safe.

When this "Rule" started the only suitable cages for chameleons was 24x24x48. So everyone said to buy that cage, due to the 24x24 not the 48, and to place it high so the height could help. Over years of this being repeated over and over, a game of telephone has skewed reality. You do not need a 48 inch tall cage, as a matter of fact a wider but not as tall cage is better in every way.

In my personal journey, I went in parroting the same old thing. screen cage is a must, no substrate, 48 inch minimum for Panthers Veiled ect. I took this as I read it over and over, so I assumed it was best. Instead of doing the research and coming to a knowledgeable conclusion on my own.
Click to expand...
 
Remember that much of the "standard husbandry" info we offer is intended to help less experienced keepers...to help them avoid harmful or costly mistakes as they are beginning their learning curve. We suggest a reasonable place to start. There is nothing bad about experimenting once you know how to keep a cham healthy and stable.
I would never consider following some pretty proven caging advice PARROTING at all. I would consider this being responsible and thoughtful until such time that my own success made me comfortable enough to experiment. As for cage heights, rules, and tradition, I have never purchased a commercially produced cage. I have always built my own or had one custom made. So, for me, commercially available cages didn't affect what I chose to do at all. I built them to take advantage of the spaces I had available. Anyone can do this, so don't assume others can't think for themselves. Not everyone has the space, tools, skills, or $$ to create their own custom caging. Those of us who have been on this forum and its ancestors back before the web was even started have seen more than our share of horror stories from newbies trying to keep arboreal chams in fish tanks on the carpet.

I'm glad you have done a lot of research into caging. That's your choice. What I don't like to read is someone rambling on about how brainless or misguided other forum members are when they are just trying to advise and help. Maybe it was your "buzzed" tone, but personally, I found it arrogant, and I try to have a pretty thick hide.

My rant is now over.
 
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Carlton said:
Remember that much of the "standard husbandry" info we offer is intended to help less experienced keepers...to help them avoid harmful or costly mistakes as they are beginning their learning curve. We suggest a reasonable place to start. There is nothing bad about experimenting once you know how to keep a cham healthy and stable.
I would never consider following some pretty proven caging advice PARROTING at all. I would consider this being responsible and thoughtful until such time that my own success made me comfortable enough to experiment. As for cage heights, rules, and tradition, I have never purchased a commercially produced cage. I have always built my own or had one custom made. So, for me, commercially available cages didn't affect what I chose to do at all. I built them to take advantage of the spaces I had available. Anyone can do this, so don't assume others can't think for themselves. Not everyone has the space, tools, skills, or $$ to create their own custom caging. Those of us who have been on this forum and its ancestors back before the web was even started have seen more than our share of horror stories from newbies trying to keep arboreal chams in fish tanks on the carpet.

I'm glad you have done a lot of research into caging. That's your choice. What I don't like to read is someone rambling on about how brainless or misguided other forum members are when they are just trying to advise and help. Maybe it was your "buzzed" tone, but personally, I found it arrogant, and I try to have a pretty thick hide.

My rant is now over.
Click to expand...

I dont know how anything I said came off as arrogant. I dont know best at all, I have not been in this hobby nearly long enough to know best. I am simply saying, do not close off other ideas because of what is drilled into everyone around here. I am then parroting my research and what I have been told, and came to form my own opinion of.

Like Chris Anderson touches on, and you also sort of did. The "dont use glass" saying came from people using fish tanks on the carpet which does not have enough ventilation. That does not mean that a glass terrarium that is designed for herp keeping is bad. On the contrary it has benefits that way IMO supersede screen, which is why I will use them personally.

Yet millions of times on this very forum, I see people using correct terrariums that are then told not to use them and only use screen. That is hive mind, the suggestion of screen has taken over to the point where it makes people think there is no other option. There is other options, and we should not make people close them off, as is done here a lot.

I am also not in any way thinking people can not think for themselves. I am stating in the case of myself, when these "Rules" are drilled in so much, they become set in as the only option. That is not a good thing, we should be trying new things different things, and exploring, changing, and growing.

I am not saying that making suggestions and as you say "Helping new people" is a bad thing at all. I am saying that it should not be done with such an absolute as to intimidate new people into thinking there is no other way. Which happens here all the time, it happened to me, I am sure its happened to many others. That discourages growth, and new ideas that could lead to positive change.

We can also see "some pretty proven caging advice" change depending on where you live. some pretty proven cage advice around here is use screen and nothing else. Yet if you talk to people from the UK that changes to glass, new keepers there use glass most keepers there do. Glass is a pretty proven caging, it may not be to you, that does not mean that is not a valid option, for both new and experienced keepers. It has different husbandry, defiantly but that does not make it bad, though a good portion of this forum will lead you to believe it is.

If our ancestors and experienced, highly respected members, people like yourself. Come at things with a closed minded approach, and speak in that manner then new people follow suit.

Edit: I have to say, I was browsing the forums and saw something you said.

"if no one protests a current regulation and provides better information that questions it, nothing changes."

This is exactly what I am saying here. And with my original post, If no one questions than nothing changes. We should all as a community be questing everything so that we can grow. We should not fall into a hive mind of this works so it is the only way. Which is what I see has happened every day I am here.

As you say "Proven Caging advise" Lots of things in our history were proven ideas. And humanity has changed them and altered them to be more efficient and better. That is how our civilization has grown. If we just said screw it stick to the proven, we would all be living like Egyptians still.
 
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After doing a little research I've found that the only size that will come close to housing a panther or veiled is the Biopod Grand. For $750 I could afford ten of my homemade cages, which are also fully automated, and likely easier to clean, maintain, and modify. Sure it looks pretty and the functionality seems interesting. I'd have a couple of major concerns however.

1. UVB light emitting diodes have been tested and shown that they do not produce ample UVB for reptile growth compared to fluorescent.

2. As a startup company seeking funding, there is no guarantee that you be able to get replacement parts and support. At $750 that a very expensive tank if you can't get parts.

I've been raising and breeding various reptiles for 20 years and I wouldn't take the chance on these. Nor would I ever use a full glass terrarium for panther and veiled chameleons but to each their own I guess.
 
Carlton said:
Remember that much of the "standard husbandry" info we offer is intended to help less experienced keepers...to help them avoid harmful or costly mistakes as they are beginning their learning curve. We suggest a reasonable place to start. There is nothing bad about experimenting once you know how to keep a cham healthy and stable.
I would never consider following some pretty proven caging advice PARROTING at all. I would consider this being responsible and thoughtful until such time that my own success made me comfortable enough to experiment. As for cage heights, rules, and tradition, I have never purchased a commercially produced cage. I have always built my own or had one custom made. So, for me, commercially available cages didn't affect what I chose to do at all. I built them to take advantage of the spaces I had available. Anyone can do this, so don't assume others can't think for themselves. Not everyone has the space, tools, skills, or $$ to create their own custom caging. Those of us who have been on this forum and its ancestors back before the web was even started have seen more than our share of horror stories from newbies trying to keep arboreal chams in fish tanks on the carpet.

I'm glad you have done a lot of research into caging. That's your choice. What I don't like to read is someone rambling on about how brainless or misguided other forum members are when they are just trying to advise and help. Maybe it was your "buzzed" tone, but personally, I found it arrogant, and I try to have a pretty thick hide.

My rant is now over.
Click to expand...

cyberlocc said:
I dont know how anything I said came off as arrogant. I dont know best at all, I have not been in this hobby nearly long enough to know best. I am simply saying, do not close off other ideas because of what is drilled into everyone around here. I am then parroting my research and what I have been told, and came to form my own opinion of.

Like Chris Anderson touches on, and you also sort of did. The "dont use glass" saying came from people using fish tanks on the carpet which does not have enough ventilation. That does not mean that a glass terrarium that is designed for herp keeping is bad. On the contrary it has benefits that way IMO supersede screen, which is why I will use them personally.

Yet millions of times on this very forum, I see people using correct terrariums that are then told not to use them and only use screen. That is hive mind, the suggestion of screen has taken over to the point where it makes people think there is no other option. There is other options, and we should not make people close them off, as is done here a lot.

I am also not in any way thinking people can not think for themselves. I am stating in the case of myself, when these "Rules" are drilled in so much, they become set in as the only option. That is not a good thing, we should be trying new things different things, and exploring, changing, and growing.

I am not saying that making suggestions and as you say "Helping new people" is a bad thing at all. I am saying that it should not be done with such an absolute as to intimidate new people into thinking there is no other way. Which happens here all the time, it happened to me, I am sure its happened to many others. That discourages growth, and new ideas that could lead to positive change.

We can also see "some pretty proven caging advice" change depending on where you live. some pretty proven cage advice around here is use screen and nothing else. Yet if you talk to people from the UK that changes to glass, new keepers there use glass most keepers there do. Glass is a pretty proven caging, it may not be to you, that does not mean that is not a valid option, for both new and experienced keepers. It has different husbandry, defiantly but that does not make it bad, though a good portion of this forum will lead you to believe it is.

If our ancestors and experienced, highly respected members, people like yourself. Come at things with a closed minded approach, and speak in that manner then new people follow suit.

Edit: I have to say, I was browsing the forums and saw something you said.

"if no one protests a current regulation and provides better information that questions it, nothing changes."

This is exactly what I am saying here. And with my original post, If no one questions than nothing changes. We should all as a community be questing everything so that we can grow. We should not fall into a hive mind of this works so it is the only way. Which is what I see has happened every day I am here.

As you say "Proven Caging advise" Lots of things in our history were proven ideas. And humanity has changed them and altered them to be more efficient and better. That is how our civilization has grown. If we just said screw it stick to the proven, we would all be living like Egyptians still.
Click to expand...
I think you both make great points and each have differing opinions but its hard to determine tone in a forum and just be respectful of each others ideas or opinions there will always be different was to do things. That's what I love about the forums hearing different ways people do things that may be better for me to try. It makes me a little sad when some shots down some else's ideas or opinions saying they have the best solution or they know it all.
 
Last edited:
oneillchameleons said:
After doing a little research I've found that the only size that will come close to housing a panther or veiled is the Biopod Grand. For $750 I could afford ten of my homemade cages, which are also fully automated, and likely easier to clean, maintain, and modify. Sure it looks pretty and the functionality seems interesting. I'd have a couple of major concerns however.

1. UVB light emitting diodes have been tested and shown that they do not produce ample UVB for reptile growth compared to fluorescent.

2. As a startup company seeking funding, there is no guarantee that you be able to get replacement parts and support. At $750 that a very expensive tank if you can't get parts.

I've been raising and breeding various reptiles for 20 years and I wouldn't take the chance on these. Nor would I ever use a full glass terrarium for panther and veiled chameleons but to each their own I guess.
Click to expand...

Those are great points :). It is very very expensive, but it is nice innovation and a step in the right direction :).

"Nor would I ever use a full glass terrarium for panther and veiled chameleons but to each their own I guess."
May I ask why? Do you not like glass for chameleons in general or just not a Panther or a Veiled?
 
Actually for Canadians, if you go for a BioPod Aqua II, you actually have to pay $487.38. This doesn't include any of the Plants and Decor. $682.85 with the Plants and Decor. http://www.biopod.com/learn/#work

Exo-Terra (M/T) - 189.95
Exo-Terra (Large) - 169.40 + (Shipping) 139.23 (USD > CAN convers. done) = 309.23

ReptiBreeze Cham Kit - 233.25 (small cage at 16x16x30)

oneillchameleons said:
1. UVB light emitting diodes have been tested and shown that they do not produce ample UVB for reptile growth compared to fluorescent.
Click to expand...

Where's the paper to prove that?? o_o Just curious.


According to this: http://www.chameleonnews.com/10JulWeldon.html you need to be roughly above 295nm UVB for them and BioPod offers Continuous wavelength between 295nm-305nm. Peaks at 300nm.

UVA - Continuous wavelength between 380nm – 405nm. Peaks at 395 nm.

LED - Continuous wavelength between 400nm-800nm. Peaks between: 420nm-450nm, 540nm-570nm, and 630nm-650nm.

According to this research: https://ca-en.hagen.com/File/3edcaa45-105c-464a-baba-a155501cbcc1

They specify this amount:
The UV-spectrum is divided into three wavelength groups:

• UVA - Long wave ultraviolet A, ranges from 320-400 nm and is of significant importance for reptiles.

• UVB - Medium wave ultraviolet B, ranges from 290-320 nm and is the most important for reptile purposes

• UVC - Short wave ultraviolet C, ranges from 180-290 nm and is dangerous to all living organisms
 
Last edited:
Drewseph said:
Actually for Canadians, if you go for a BioPod Aqua II, you actually have to pay $487.38. This doesn't include any of the Plants and Decor. $682.85 with the Plants and Decor. http://www.biopod.com/learn/#work

Exo-Terra (M/T) - 189.95
Exo-Terra (Large) - 169.40 + (Shipping) 139.23 (USD > CAN convers. done) = 309.23

ReptiBreeze Cham Kit - 233.25 (small cage at 16x16x30)



Where's the paper to prove that?? o_o Just curious.


According to this: http://www.chameleonnews.com/10JulWeldon.html you need to be roughly above 295nm UVB for them and BioPod offers Continuous wavelength between 295nm-305nm. Peaks at 300nm.

UVA - Continuous wavelength between 380nm – 405nm. Peaks at 395 nm.

LED - Continuous wavelength between 400nm-800nm. Peaks between: 420nm-450nm, 540nm-570nm, and 630nm-650nm.

According to this research: https://ca-en.hagen.com/File/3edcaa45-105c-464a-baba-a155501cbcc1

They specify this amount:
The UV-spectrum is divided into three wavelength groups:

• UVA - Long wave ultraviolet A, ranges from 320-400 nm and is of significant importance for reptiles.

• UVB - Medium wave ultraviolet B, ranges from 290-320 nm and is the most important for reptile purposes

• UVC - Short wave ultraviolet C, ranges from 180-290 nm and is dangerous to all living organisms
Click to expand...

Well here is the thing. There is Diodes that can do it, they are also 1000s of dollars. I highly doubt they have a working UVB diode in there. Also the diodes that could in theory do it, have never been tested with herps, they cost to much to be worth it.

That said, there is/was some UVB leds on ebay and the likes awhile back, a lot of reptiles got MBD from those LEDs.

That said I am no expert, but @Venutus1 is so lets see what he has to say.
 
The regular bulbs inside dome lights dont have 'diodes'? Im not sure exactly what diodes are. The specify that their lights can allow reptiles to absorb calcium through the lights =/
 
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