Can someone tell me what this is

They should be eating 15-25 small feeders A DAY. When they start to reach maturity, you should slow down to 10-15 appropriate sized feeders every other day. Many people supplement differently, I do it the old fashioned way--separate supplements. I do calcium no D3 every feeding, calcium with D3 twice a month, and multivitamin (herptivite) twice a month. They are all under the brand name Rep-Cal. However, many people have also had success with using Repashy's "Calcium Plus," which is a mix of everything he needs, and should be used 3-4 times a week. Also, gutload more. Look at Sandrachameleon's blog about gutloading, she has some great nutritional info. Look around, too.

And I hate to keep picking, but you should probably be misting more, too. If it's too hard to mist about 6 times a day, you can buy an automatic misting system. By the way, what feeders are you using? EDIT: Ah I see, sorry. At that young I believe you can still use fruit flies(?). But small dubia roaches, silkworms, and many more as your chams grow older are all great choices for feeding.
 
Chameleon babies can be housed together for a while, but eventually one becomes dominant and it can cause problems for the submissive one. In this case, the larger female bit the male (which could have ended up much worse than a small V shaped bruise.)

I would mist an extra time or two a day unless you have a dripper set up to run most of the day. Does your calci-dust have vitamin D3 in it? If you could fill out the other half of the form that would be great. Since he is in a temporary tank, tell us what you are doing for your female and what you plan to do for the male once you have a new viv/cage set up.

I don't know if the pet store told you this, but the female can lay eggs without being mated so you will eventually need to put in a laying bin for her. A tub or bucket that is at least 12 inches deep and 12 inches around filled with 10-12 inches of soil/sand/coco fiber that had been moistened will do. You will want to add it around 5-6 months of age so she can lay eggs if she needs to. Since they are so young, you don't have to worry about it right now, but you will have to look into it to make sure she doesn't become egg bound.
 
If you are feeding locusts and using nutrabol I guess you are in uk. I've stopped using bug grub because it doesn't really say what's in it. Sandra has got a really good receipe for gut loading. I made my own then added the bug grub I had so as not to waste it. You could try adding spring greens or a few leaves of romain lettuce. I would also suggest using plain calcium every feed. Lightly dust all feeders daily and nutrabol twice a month.

What is the recipe for gutloading? Yes i am in uk i live in northamptonshire so i should dust all food with calci dust and use nutribol twice a month?.
 
Chameleon babies can be housed together for a while, but eventually one becomes dominant and it can cause problems for the submissive one. In this case, the larger female bit the male (which could have ended up much worse than a small V shaped bruise.)

I would mist an extra time or two a day unless you have a dripper set up to run most of the day. Does your calci-dust have vitamin D3 in it? If you could fill out the other half of the form that would be great. Since he is in a temporary tank, tell us what you are doing for your female and what you plan to do for the male once you have a new viv/cage set up.

I don't know if the pet store told you this, but the female can lay eggs without being mated so you will eventually need to put in a laying bin for her. A tub or bucket that is at least 12 inches deep and 12 inches around filled with 10-12 inches of soil/sand/coco fiber that had been moistened will do. You will want to add it around 5-6 months of age so she can lay eggs if she needs to. Since they are so young, you don't have to worry about it right now, but you will have to look into it to make sure she doesn't become egg bound.

Ok i will mist a couple more times aday as i dont have a dripper system i am getting the rest of the information you need right now and weve decided to make a new viv instead my bf is a carpenter so hes going to design and make a viv for the female and then the male can go in the glass terrerium until he gets abit bigger then hes gonna need one aswell we wer thinking of making one with a sheet of glass right down the middle to keep them seperated but they will still beable to see each other so were not doing that anymore there just gonna have to have seperate vivs and i knew that females could lay eggs without mating so i will make sure she has what she needs when she needs it.
 
Yes. When they are babies they need plain calcium daily and a supplement containing d3 and one containing multivitamin every two weeks. Nutrabol contains d3 and multivitamin. If you click onto blogs. Choose best blogs and at the left hand side you will see gutloading. Click on that and you will see recipe for jan 2012. I gathered most of the ingredients from health food shop. I had a problem getting alfalfa so used porridge oats. If you can't get them all at once get what you can and keep adding to the mix. It will last for ages.owning chams is a very steep learning curve but you have come to the right place to learn.good luck and keep posting.
 
There is a much easier way of finding Sandras blogs but not very good at copying and pasting.lol
 
They should be eating 15-25 small feeders A DAY. When they start to reach maturity, you should slow down to 10-15 appropriate sized feeders every other day. Many people supplement differently, I do it the old fashioned way--separate supplements. I do calcium no D3 every feeding, calcium with D3 twice a month, and multivitamin (herptivite) twice a month. They are all under the brand name Rep-Cal. However, many people have also had success with using Repashy's "Calcium Plus," which is a mix of everything he needs, and should be used 3-4 times a week. Also, gutload more. Look at Sandrachameleon's blog about gutloading, she has some great nutritional info. Look around, too.

And I hate to keep picking, but you should probably be misting more, too. If it's too hard to mist about 6 times a day, you can buy an automatic misting system. By the way, what feeders are you using? EDIT: Ah I see, sorry. At that young I believe you can still use fruit flies(?). But small dubia roaches, silkworms, and many more as your chams grow older are all great choices for feeding.

My female eats around 15 aday shes realy greedy but the male dosent seem to eat much but i think thats because she was stealing his food now they have been seperated today he has ate atleast 6 crickets but i still havent seen him eat but they are gone so he must have ate them and i have read that some chameleons dont like to be watched while there eating so maybe thats all it is and i will defi etly have a look at the gut loading thankz.
 
The problem with a glass divider is that they can still visually bully eachother. Chameleons are very visual animals and communicate through postures, vibrations, and color display. If they can still see each other they can still cause stress. An opaque barrier would be best for this reason.

I'm really glad that you are making all these changes for your animals. It shows how dedicated you are to them and their wellbeing.
 
Unfortunately the pet store employees are not trained on all the different species their store may carry. They extrapolate the basics of reptile care they are familiar with (and that depends entirely on who you talk to), and chameleons often break the mold with their more unique requirements. So while the pet store employees often have good intentions, remember that they are there to make a sale, they are not experts and often have no experience with chameleons at all. It is also in the store's best interest to promote the purchase of more stuff...which may or may not be (usually is not) the stuff you need.

The good thing is now you've discovered a treasure trove of correct information here on the forums! We will help you get set up correctly. :) You've already done a good job to separate them quickly. We are in this for your chameleon's best interest and health so don't think we are just picking on you or anything. Pet stores make people have to start over all the time.

The best thing to do would be to fill this out based on your big cage setup, so that we can help you fix the other mistakes they've told you:

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?

Pictures are helpful

As you know it is the temperary fish tank/vivarium 10 litre
The light is a exo terra repti glow 10.0 uvb 26watt and the schedule is 12 hours on 12 hours off from 10 till 10 i have a digitil thermometer the ambient temperature is around 84°f the floor area is around 79°f and the basking spot is around 90°f the humidity is 80% it is being measured with an analogue hydrometer the plants are fake their hard plastic for better balance and the chameleons are a little bit higher than half the room when im standing there higher than me and they cannot see each other and they are in my living room wich i never use i always sit upstairs for some reason so they should be quite happy and there are no fans or air vents near by and i live in uk in northamptonshire.
 
The problem with a glass divider is that they can still visually bully eachother. Chameleons are very visual animals and communicate through postures, vibrations, and color display. If they can still see each other they can still cause stress. An opaque barrier would be best for this reason.

I'm really glad that you are making all these changes for your animals. It shows how dedicated you are to them and their wellbeing.

Yes thats what i was thinking but i wanted it to look like one viv when you look in but it has the glass panel down the middle i like all my vivs to look natural to that animals enviroment and make backgrounds and waterfalls for them too but not with chameleons as i have read chameleons shouldnt have waterfalls but as they will still see each other i would rather have to seperate vivs than a panel down the middle but ill have to think about it its a possibility.
I love all my pets i will always make changes if its better for them ive just been giving some bad advice about chameleons and ive never had one before but ill get it right.
 
Yes. When they are babies they need plain calcium daily and a supplement containing d3 and one containing multivitamin every two weeks. Nutrabol contains d3 and multivitamin. If you click onto blogs. Choose best blogs and at the left hand side you will see gutloading. Click on that and you will see recipe for jan 2012. I gathered most of the ingredients from health food shop. I had a problem getting alfalfa so used porridge oats. If you can't get them all at once get what you can and keep adding to the mix. It will last for ages.owning chams is a very steep learning curve but you have come to the right place to learn.good luck and keep posting.

Thanks i will have a look for this recipe tomorrow bed for now lol i would be on here all night looking at stuff.
 
The way you have changed things in a very short time tells me that you will make a good Cham keeper. Just keep posting any questions you have and in no time you will have several replies. Keep up the good work. Oh and I bet you will soon spend more time in your living room watching your babies.!
 
The way you have changed things in a very short time tells me that you will make a good Cham keeper. Just keep posting any questions you have and in no time you will have several replies. Keep up the good work. Oh and I bet you will soon spend more time in your living room watching your babies.!

Thanks I'm pretty sure i will end up with loads of reptiles too I already have 4 and I want more their just so interesting not your average pet I love them.

And i had a look at that recipe is there not someone on this forum selling bags of it already made up??
 
Thanks I'm pretty sure i will end up with loads of reptiles too I already have 4 and I want more their just so interesting not your average pet I love them.

And i had a look at that recipe is there not someone on this forum selling bags of it already made up??

recipes of what>

the gutload from sandrachameleon? no there isnt.

the only pre bagged stuff you can get from us on here is cricket crack,and some hornworm chow.
 
recipes of what>

the gutload from sandrachameleon? no there isnt.

the only pre bagged stuff you can get from us on here is cricket crack,and some hornworm chow.

Ive heard about the cricket crack i went into classified and found who was selling it but it will not let me write anything on there.
 
Help please what is this on my cam

Hi can any one tell me what this gray spot on the top of his skin. It is gray and started to split at the spikes on his back . He is eating and drinking fine . worried it may be a fungus or something like that. any help will be greatly appriciated. please contact me as soon as possiable. please text me at 260-517-8589 as i dont have computer access often i can text pictures to you .


thanks Nick
will try to get picks up loaded by tomorrow .
 
Hi can any one tell me what this gray spot on the top of his skin. It is gray and started to split at the spikes on his back . He is eating and drinking fine . worried it may be a fungus or something like that. any help will be greatly appriciated. please contact me as soon as possiable. please text me at 260-517-8589 as i dont have computer access often i can text pictures to you .


thanks Nick
will try to get picks up loaded by tomorrow .

start your own thread instead of hijacking someoen elses. but it sounds like the start of a shed.
 
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