Cham keeps closing his eye

Loubell01

Member
I have noticed in the last couple of days that my panther cham keeps closing one of his eyes, there dosnt seem to be any obvious issue with the eye that i can see and it looks pretty normal when he opens it. At first i wondered if he had maybe been sprayed with water when his mister went off but its seems more like a tired type of closing like hes sleepy i read somewhere it could be a vitamin A deficiency 🤔 any thoughts would be appreciated
Also how can i get him to eat a more varied diet he has stopped eating crickets and hoppers and will only take silkworms and waxworms
 
I totally get it about the waxworms but dont know what else to try he will take occasional Silkworms but nothing else every few weeks i try again but end up Left will crickets and hoppers that he just wont eat it so frustrating.
 

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Have you tried different types of roaches or anything else on this feeder sheet?
 

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What supplements and schedule are you using and what UVB lighting fixture type and bulb strength are you providing?
Can you take pics of the entire enclosure lighting down so we can see what your working with?
 
Could you answer @Beman ‘s questions, please? Along with filling out this form (with as much detail as possible)?

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
What supplements and schedule are you using and what UVB lighting fixture type and bulb strength are you providing?
Can you take pics of the entire enclosure lighting down so we can see what your working with?
 

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Repti-calcium without D3 dusted on all food daily
Nutri-rep with D3 dusted on food every couple of weeks
 

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Mercury vapor UVB bulbs are way too powerful for a regular cage! They should only be used in free range areas (or massive cages), tilted at a 45* angle, and only used with a UVI Solarmeter 6.5 and digital thermometers with probes and and a digital infrared temp gun to make sure UVI levels and temps are correct and safe! You need a T5 High Output linear fixture (the length of your cage or a foot longer- depending if your cage is the right size) with either an Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med 5.0 strength UVB linear bulb of the matching size (as long as your cage is the correct height for this strenght of fixture and bulb). Getting a UVI Solarmeter 6.5 is recommended to check your UVI levels at the basking branch and to check for when to replace your UVB bulbs (when the ouput is cut in half).

Repti-calcium without D3 dusted on all food daily
Nutri-rep with D3 dusted on food every couple of weeks
I have no experience with NutriRep anything, but the Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 should be used every feeding, except for when using other supplements. A multivitamin with D3 (like yours depending on its quality and levels) should be used once every two weeks. Filling out the full form’s info and putting it on one post would be extremely helpful!
 
Your cage needs more branches, vines, and live plants, as well. Check out Much Ado About Chameleons’ blog entry on how to properly set up an enclosure, as well as the care module on setting up an enclosure from The Chameleon Academy (they have the most up-to-date and accurate info, too). MadCham and links from the external resources section in the resources tab are really helpful and informative, as well!
 
Also, unless your substrate is bioactive (which should only be used with a healthy chameleon and correct husbandry), remove all of it! All live plants should have rocks too big for your chameleon to eat covering the soil in the pots, too, once you take out the substrate.
 
Male panther red bar ambiobe chamelon, weve had him around a year and a half, he was 18months old when we purchased him From a reptile centre.
He has a electronic mister which sprays 3 times a day and a dripper system Inside his vivarium so access to plenty of water even though we have never seen him drink by himself... ever..
The temp at basking is around 90f during day and drops to around 60-65f at night. Humidity around 69-80%.
We changed the Halid bulb for a new one (the same strength) because we were advised to change them every 6 months, this was back in Nov and not long after noticed a small burn on chillis back, after adjusting the height of his lamps and a trip to the vets for treatment his back began to heal and he has since been given the all clear for healing scar tissue and no infection.
The vets trip was 2 weeks ago) But we have noticed he is extremely thirsty even though he has lots of access to water we are gently giving him water via a small pipette a few drops at a time untill its obvious he dosnt want anymore but the thirst and eye closing is worrying he closes it alot just the left one but opens it if he knows you are looking at him.
The substrate in the bottom is repti-brick husk (whixh it has always been since we got him and there are no live plants in the viv.
If i add more branches and foliage will it upset him? As i heard chameleons dont like change in their environment?
Thanks for taking the time to read such a long blog and for any advise
 

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Male panther red bar ambiobe chamelon, weve had him around a year and a half, he was 18months old when we purchased him From a reptile centre.
He has a electronic mister which sprays 3 times a day and a dripper system Inside his vivarium so access to plenty of water even though we have never seen him drink by himself... ever..
The temp at basking is around 90f during day and drops to around 60-65f at night. Humidity around 69-80%.
We changed the Halid bulb for a new one (the same strength) because we were advised to change them every 6 months, this was back in Nov and not long after noticed a small burn on chillis back, after adjusting the height of his lamps and a trip to the vets for treatment his back began to heal and he has since been given the all clear for healing scar tissue and no infection.
The vets trip was 2 weeks ago) But we have noticed he is extremely thirsty even though he has lots of access to water we are gently giving him water via a small pipette a few drops at a time untill its obvious he dosnt want anymore but the thirst and eye closing is worrying he closes it alot just the left one but opens it if he knows you are looking at him.
The substrate in the bottom is repti-brick husk (whixh it has always been since we got him and there are no live plants in the viv.
If i add more branches and foliage will it upset him? As i heard chameleons dont like change in their environment?
Thanks for taking the time to read such a long blog and for any advise
No problem, happy to help! Though could you take this info and put it in the form, along with filling out any missing categories? Sorry to ask, but it‘s just easier for me to read through and respond to. I’m currently not at a computer, so I can’t copy and paste it myself. Again, sorry for the inconvenience!
 
You need to swap out the Mercury bulb for a linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 or 6% bulb. Basking would be 9 inches below the fixture.
The bulb your using is way too high in UVB output to be used on a cage and they are not advised at all for a chameleon due to the heat they put out and the high UVI levels. Over exposure to high UVI levels can cause all sorts of health issues.
 
What @Beman said. But on the eye specifically there does appear something in it or small infection/injury. In the pictures you posted. His right eye, our left as looking at it.
Look at the "corner" first there should not be a corner. Notice the other eye is completely round. This indicates something and likely why he is closing his eye.
I used the MV bulbs in some of my enclosures. @Beman is spot on. My enclosure is large 3x3x5ft open front and the MV bulb sits back 14+ inches from the enclosure. They also are poor at going through screen. So they are a poor choice for a standard screen set up.
 
What @Beman said. But on the eye specifically there does appear something in it or small infection/injury. In the pictures you posted. His right eye, our left as looking at it.
Look at the "corner" first there should not be a corner. Notice the other eye is completely round. This indicates something and likely why he is closing his eye.
I used the MV bulbs in some of my enclosures. @Beman is spot on. My enclosure is large 3x3x5ft open front and the MV bulb sits back 14+ inches from the enclosure. They also are poor at going through screen. So they are a poor choice for a standard screen set up.
Yeah i noticed that shape too perhaps he has got something in there... 🤔
 
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