Could i get some help again, Coccidia
- Thread starter Mayybbee
- Start date
I am going to be extremely honest with you... A chameleon with coccidia is one of the hardest things a new keeper can take on. You say he is wild caught but you also said the breeder is giving you feedback. These are two different things. You can have captive hatched which means that a person took in a pregnant female that laid fertile eggs. But if he is wild caught then the person that sold him to you is not his breeder.
I do not know when you got him but I would suggest you ask to return him to the "breeder".
The treatment, cleaning and impact coccidia takes on the human keeper is pretty intense. I had this happen to me when I was only in the hobby for 9 months with the second chameleon I bought. Within days of me having him he went downhill.
The fact that the cage still has all the plants and original items means he has an extremely high re contamination chance. Which means you will be starting over from scratch with treatment.
If you are fogging non stop at night then he is not dehydrated (make sure night temps are below 67 or you will have RI risk). Also the urate does not indicate dehydration. He shows no signs at all of being underweight as of right now. So I would not force feed. He is going to go through periods of not wanting to eat. Keep offering him food and see if he takes it. Do not free feed and do not put insects on any surface of the cage where there could be fecal matter. Do not over mist during the day. Hot moist air is not good for them and can start a respiratory infection. You can add a dripper to the cage during the day and it will not increase ambient levels.
Is he up and moving around during the day? When you say sleeping at 3pm. Do you mean tucked into a spot or fully sleeping eyes closed? What time do you have lighting coming on and turning off?
Do not increase your UVB strength you need a 5.0 and a distance of 8-9 inches to the basking branch from the screen where the fixture sits. This puts them in the correct UVI level. Do not change bulb wattages unless your temps are off. you want a basking temp of 80-85 max.
I do not know when you got him but I would suggest you ask to return him to the "breeder".
The treatment, cleaning and impact coccidia takes on the human keeper is pretty intense. I had this happen to me when I was only in the hobby for 9 months with the second chameleon I bought. Within days of me having him he went downhill.
The fact that the cage still has all the plants and original items means he has an extremely high re contamination chance. Which means you will be starting over from scratch with treatment.
If you are fogging non stop at night then he is not dehydrated (make sure night temps are below 67 or you will have RI risk). Also the urate does not indicate dehydration. He shows no signs at all of being underweight as of right now. So I would not force feed. He is going to go through periods of not wanting to eat. Keep offering him food and see if he takes it. Do not free feed and do not put insects on any surface of the cage where there could be fecal matter. Do not over mist during the day. Hot moist air is not good for them and can start a respiratory infection. You can add a dripper to the cage during the day and it will not increase ambient levels.
Is he up and moving around during the day? When you say sleeping at 3pm. Do you mean tucked into a spot or fully sleeping eyes closed? What time do you have lighting coming on and turning off?
Do not increase your UVB strength you need a 5.0 and a distance of 8-9 inches to the basking branch from the screen where the fixture sits. This puts them in the correct UVI level. Do not change bulb wattages unless your temps are off. you want a basking temp of 80-85 max.
Let me correct myself, He is a breeder/importer and He confirmed this was a wild caught chameleon as most of his are.
That is a brand new cage that i just bought with new sticks and plants after all the advice i got from here. But i will keep in mind to keep cleaning it when i can to avoid recontamination.
Temps at night are fairly low, low 60’s. and as for the day misting, when i look at the hygrometer and see its 40-30% and dropping, what do i do? Even with my dripper, the humidity wont stay set and im not sure how else to keep it up other than to buy more plants and even still i feel like it will drop. Keeping in mind im in Ontario Canada not very humid atm.
I have the timer turn the lights on and off at 7 so when i see him. He is usually basking in one spot for most the day, might move to some plants for coverage, but then i will find him later with one or both eyes closed. I wouldn’t say he is sleeping like he is at night (hard to wake him) i think hes like napping rather, but you get the idea and I usually starting seeing the eyes closed starting around 3pm.
My uvb used to be 10.0 I switched to a 5.0 yesterday. And the basking bulb was a 50W halogen bulb, the guy i got him from suggested switching to a incandescent bulb since a halogen can get too hot. I got the halogen as recommended through neptune the chameleons youtube channel. With the halogen it was about 80-85F. 88F max, and with the incandescent its about the same with a slightly different height from the cage. Any recommendations?
That is a brand new cage that i just bought with new sticks and plants after all the advice i got from here. But i will keep in mind to keep cleaning it when i can to avoid recontamination.
Temps at night are fairly low, low 60’s. and as for the day misting, when i look at the hygrometer and see its 40-30% and dropping, what do i do? Even with my dripper, the humidity wont stay set and im not sure how else to keep it up other than to buy more plants and even still i feel like it will drop. Keeping in mind im in Ontario Canada not very humid atm.
I have the timer turn the lights on and off at 7 so when i see him. He is usually basking in one spot for most the day, might move to some plants for coverage, but then i will find him later with one or both eyes closed. I wouldn’t say he is sleeping like he is at night (hard to wake him) i think hes like napping rather, but you get the idea and I usually starting seeing the eyes closed starting around 3pm.
My uvb used to be 10.0 I switched to a 5.0 yesterday. And the basking bulb was a 50W halogen bulb, the guy i got him from suggested switching to a incandescent bulb since a halogen can get too hot. I got the halogen as recommended through neptune the chameleons youtube channel. With the halogen it was about 80-85F. 88F max, and with the incandescent its about the same with a slightly different height from the cage. Any recommendations?
IrohtheVeiled
Established Member
I’m just being straight with you, you were given advice and you’re not listening to it. If you’re not willing to quarantine your Cham he’s not going to be able to clear the parasite. All the wood is porous. All the plants are porous. They all harbor the thing your Cham is sick with.
Being blunt about it, if you don’t quarantine your Cham there’s a good chance he’ll decomp and maybe die. Here’s what my Cham looked like in quarantine for coccidia. Did I like having him in this stripped down cage? Absolutely not. But hey he’s parasite free now. Why? Because I followed the treatment recommendations offered to me.
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IrohtheVeiled
Established Member
No where did i express that I was unwilling to quarantine my chameleon. In fact, I expressed in one of my forums that I didn’t know i need to quarantine and that i would be working towards getting another cage for that. This is literally a brand new cage with all new materials.
I only had that one cage for the time being and I just got and built this the other day and im currently deconstructing the other cage to rebuild to be for quarantine.
i understand this one looks similar to the previous, but jumping the gun like that was completely unnecessary. But thank you for the advice.
