Could i get some help again, Coccidia
- Thread starter Mayybbee
- Start date
I am going to be extremely honest with you... A chameleon with coccidia is one of the hardest things a new keeper can take on. You say he is wild caught but you also said the breeder is giving you feedback. These are two different things. You can have captive hatched which means that a person took in a pregnant female that laid fertile eggs. But if he is wild caught then the person that sold him to you is not his breeder.
I do not know when you got him but I would suggest you ask to return him to the "breeder".
The treatment, cleaning and impact coccidia takes on the human keeper is pretty intense. I had this happen to me when I was only in the hobby for 9 months with the second chameleon I bought. Within days of me having him he went downhill.
The fact that the cage still has all the plants and original items means he has an extremely high re contamination chance. Which means you will be starting over from scratch with treatment.
If you are fogging non stop at night then he is not dehydrated (make sure night temps are below 67 or you will have RI risk). Also the urate does not indicate dehydration. He shows no signs at all of being underweight as of right now. So I would not force feed. He is going to go through periods of not wanting to eat. Keep offering him food and see if he takes it. Do not free feed and do not put insects on any surface of the cage where there could be fecal matter. Do not over mist during the day. Hot moist air is not good for them and can start a respiratory infection. You can add a dripper to the cage during the day and it will not increase ambient levels.
Is he up and moving around during the day? When you say sleeping at 3pm. Do you mean tucked into a spot or fully sleeping eyes closed? What time do you have lighting coming on and turning off?
Do not increase your UVB strength you need a 5.0 and a distance of 8-9 inches to the basking branch from the screen where the fixture sits. This puts them in the correct UVI level. Do not change bulb wattages unless your temps are off. you want a basking temp of 80-85 max.
I do not know when you got him but I would suggest you ask to return him to the "breeder".
The treatment, cleaning and impact coccidia takes on the human keeper is pretty intense. I had this happen to me when I was only in the hobby for 9 months with the second chameleon I bought. Within days of me having him he went downhill.
The fact that the cage still has all the plants and original items means he has an extremely high re contamination chance. Which means you will be starting over from scratch with treatment.
If you are fogging non stop at night then he is not dehydrated (make sure night temps are below 67 or you will have RI risk). Also the urate does not indicate dehydration. He shows no signs at all of being underweight as of right now. So I would not force feed. He is going to go through periods of not wanting to eat. Keep offering him food and see if he takes it. Do not free feed and do not put insects on any surface of the cage where there could be fecal matter. Do not over mist during the day. Hot moist air is not good for them and can start a respiratory infection. You can add a dripper to the cage during the day and it will not increase ambient levels.
Is he up and moving around during the day? When you say sleeping at 3pm. Do you mean tucked into a spot or fully sleeping eyes closed? What time do you have lighting coming on and turning off?
Do not increase your UVB strength you need a 5.0 and a distance of 8-9 inches to the basking branch from the screen where the fixture sits. This puts them in the correct UVI level. Do not change bulb wattages unless your temps are off. you want a basking temp of 80-85 max.
