Do burns/bruises heal over time?

bruce the cham said:
you should feed more than super worms and meal worms
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Yeah I know 😓 I used to give him crickets too but they freak me out so bad 😖. I know might have to start buying them for him again though... I give him hornworms and waxworms occasionally but only as a treat because they are high in fat.
 
M4nda_panda said:
Yeah I know 😓 I used to give him crickets too but they freak me out so bad 😖. I know might have to start buying them for him again though... I give him hornworms and waxworms occasionally but only as a treat because they are high in fat.
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I know it sounds worse than crickets, but truly they are so much nicer…roaches. Dubia for everywhere except Florida and in Florida, discoids…neither fly and can’t climb smooth sided containers. Very little to no odor. Very easy to breed your own but are easily available from many on line venders. I’ve been breeding my own discoids for 2 1/2 years and I am yet to actually touch one of the adults. The baby nymphs are much less icky and those are what we feed to our chams.
BSFL are great feeders and if you let them turn into flies, they make fun flying treats.
Places like https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/ carry a variety of great feeders.
 
MissSkittles said:
I know it sounds worse than crickets, but truly they are so much nicer…roaches. Dubia for everywhere except Florida and in Florida, discoids…neither fly and can’t climb smooth sided containers. Very little to no odor. Very easy to breed your own but are easily available from many on line venders. I’ve been breeding my own discoids for 2 1/2 years and I am yet to actually touch one of the adults. The baby nymphs are much less icky and those are what we feed to our chams.
BSFL are great feeders and if you let them turn into flies, they make fun flying treats.
Places like https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/ carry a variety of great feeders.
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I'm even more freaked out by roaches 😅🤦‍♀️ but I like the fact that the roaches don't fly or jump at least 🤔. I live in central FL though so that may not be an option. How about the silk worms? Do you have to buy them online? I have never see them in the pet stores
 
M4nda_panda said:
I'm even more freaked out by roaches 😅🤦‍♀️ but I like the fact that the roaches don't fly or jump at least 🤔. I live in central FL though so that may not be an option. How about the silk worms? Do you have to buy them online? I have never see them in the pet stores
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You can definitely feed silkworms! They're incredibly nutritious for your chameleon but they are, unfortunately, probably the hardest/most expensive to find. That being said, you CAN get them online.

I second getting roaches. They're NOTHING like the roaches you're probably thinking of. Florida roaches are huge and awful and ughghghghhh I hate them. Dubia roaches are WAY less icky and like stated above, don't smell or fly or jump or climb walls. They're a great mix of nutrients and way more pleasant to feed/keep than crickets.

Being that you're in florida, unfortunately, they're illegal there. But as stated above, discoid roaches are an option, though I'm not sure where to find them. So are Black Soldier Fly Larvae - my guys LOVES 'em! (though they may be a touch small for a full-grown cham... I couldn't say for sure). https://dubiaroaches.com/products/large-black-soldier-fly-larvae

I did find this site that seems to have silkworms in stock, but I can't vouch for their quality: https://www.hornworms.com/products/silkworms

Hopefully that helps! :)
 
Ohh yeah they are a bit pricey but sound much healthier for him. Maybe I can try the black soldier flies too or try to find some discoids 🤔. Also thank you for the links 😊. Yeah the roaches here in FL are no joke for sure 😂
 
MissSkittles said:
  • Your Chameleon -
  • The species- Veiled Chameleon
  • Sex- Male
  • Age- About 2.5?
  • How long has it been in your care- A little less then 2.5
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon- Everyday he's very social, happy, and loving That is quite unusual, especially for a veiled.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? Super worms and meal worms Superworms are very fatty and should only be given as occasional treats. There are lots of other feeders that are great. My favorites are roaches and silkworms for nutrition. Crickets are a necessary evil for me. Mealworms are not recommended. Then you need to feed your bugs so that they will be healthy and provide better nutrition for your chameleon. Attaching some graphics below.
  • What amount? I offer him 3 a day and he doesn't always eat them. This too is unusual for a veiled. They are usually opportunistic and will always eat whatever is offered. He should be getting fed about 3-4 feeders, every other day or 3 times a week.
  • What is the schedule? He usually comes to me and asks me to take him to his outdoor enclosure. I take him out and let him outside for a few hours then I take him back in the house.
  • How are you gut-loading your feeders? With zucchini, cucumber, grapes, all kinds of fruits and veggies that I check to make sure they are safe for him. See the graphic.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I sprinkle his food with repashy super food calcium plus with vitamins supplement and occasionally give him vitamin A plus Already went over this.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? He has an Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidifier system with his glass cage and a reptirain misting system in his outdoor cage.
  • How often and how long to you mist? Not sure it's automatic it's senses the humidity and goes off when it gets low. His reptirain outside sprays every he for 30 seconds. What humidity range do you have? Ideal for a veiled during the day is between 30-50%. I’m not familiar with that IHC200 system…is it a mister or a humidifier? During the day, you never want to use a humidifier…you want to just mist. The standard misting schedule is for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day…right before lights on and off and mid day if needed. At night if you get a temp drop below at least 70, you can use the humidifier to simulate the natural hydration they get in the wild from fog.
  • Do you see your chameleon drinking? Yes he drinks a lot when I spray the bottle at his mouth lately I wonder if he's dehydrated but he gets a lot of water from his mistings so idk 🤷‍♀️ Not a good idea to spray him directly and since he is drinking a lot when you do that, I’m guessing he isn’t getting enough water from mistings.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? He has been tested and has never had parasites. I'm looking at his 💩rn it does looks a bit orangey yellow when it didn't before 🤔. A little bit of yellow on one end of the urate is ok, but you want at least 2/3 of it to be white or cream colored. All yellow and orange mean dehydration. It looks firm in consistency.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. - He used to have mouth rot like a year ago but I took him to the vet and he's better now
How big is his enclosure?
What are your temps at basking and during the night?
Do you have live or fake plants?
View attachment 322949View attachment 322950View attachment 322951
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Thanks you for the care sheets and for the advice it has been very helpful 😊. Yeah I got lucky with him I think because I spend a lot of time with him and socialized him he ended up getting a good temperament. I will get him the super cal supplement and use that daily instead and only use the other one every other week. Also I'll have to find him a different feeder that is less fattening. It is a mister and yeah it's not fully orangey yellow kinda half and half?
 
I’m also in Central Florida. We are super lucky to have some good chameleon vets. I take my chams to Dr Bogoslavsky in Orlando https://myavho.com/ and there’s word that Dr Diaz in Orlando is also good with chams. https://www.orlandoexoticveterinarian.com/ It’s about a 40 minute drive for Dr B for me, but we’ll worth it.
For trying different feeders, including discoids, there is http://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/ She’s on the panhandle, so shipping is usually rather quick (unless the stupid post office delays it) and her prices are reasonable.
I totally get it about roaches and it took me some time before I was brave enough to try them, and even longer before I decided to breed my own.
 
MissSkittles said:
I’m also in Central Florida. We are super lucky to have some good chameleon vets. I take my chams to Dr Bogoslavsky in Orlando https://myavho.com/ and there’s word that Dr Diaz in Orlando is also good with chams. https://www.orlandoexoticveterinarian.com/ It’s about a 40 minute drive for Dr B for me, but we’ll worth it.
For trying different feeders, including discoids, there is http://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/ She’s on the panhandle, so shipping is usually rather quick (unless the stupid post office delays it) and her prices are reasonable.
I totally get it about roaches and it took me some time before I was brave enough to try them, and even longer before I decided to breed my own.
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Ohh that's great news I'm also about 40 mins away from Orlando. I was just looking up about the discoids. Thanks for the link I was having issues finding a place that sells them so sounds good to me 👍
 
MissSkittles said:
Look back to what I said in post #15.
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Yes. Look back at posts #10 & 11, where OP expressed a concern IF he falls, and you immediately jumped on that one detail. She later (post #14) said that he falls "occasionally". That's about how often Mr. GrumpyPants falls, and it's no big deal.

We may assess things differently, but I don't see how a minor mention followed up by 'occasionally' warrants blowing it out of proportion—or that that's going to help. If it had been established that the poor little fellow falls every day or something, I could see the concern—and would agree, but IMO, "occasionally" doesn't qualify.
 
Forgot to post this from before had to gather the rest of the info 😅

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, Thrive Tropical Reptile Terrarium Essentials Kit - 30 Gallon
What are the dimensions? 18"L x 18"W x 24"H
Lighting - What brand-Reptisun T5 HO Terrium hood 14", size 15 watt florescent lamp and flukers 100 watt basking bulb with deep dome lamp
model, and types of lighting are you using?Listed above^^^
What is your daily lighting schedule? 7am to 7pm and also a few hrs of natural light from his outdoor cage
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? It says around 90
Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Not sure never checked 🤔
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? Around 87
How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? He has an Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidifier system with his glass cage and a reptirain misting system in his outdoor cage.
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Mostly live Pothos and I bought him some tiny ladder's to climb on and he has some sticks from out back
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At the back of the house near the sliding glass door to my back yard
At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 4' 3" Ft from the ground
Location - Where are you geographically located? Central Florida
 
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M4nda_panda said:
Yes I was thinking about that too if it is time to get him a new one. His outdoor cage is really big thats probably why he likes to be outside better 🤔
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I don't doubt it, but it could be more than that. My panther is in a 48 x 24 x 48, and he's been hanging on the door in one corner all day because he wants to come out, climb on the Missus' plants, and sit in the window looking out. Can't blame him! 😃
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Yes. Look back at posts #10 & 11, where OP expressed a concern IF he falls, and you immediately jumped on that one detail. She later (post #14) said that he falls "occasionally". That's about how often Mr. GrumpyPants falls, and it's no big deal.

We may assess things differently, but I don't see how a minor mention followed up by 'occasionally' warrants blowing it out of proportion—or that that's going to help. If it had been established that the poor little fellow falls every day or something, I could see the concern—and would agree, but IMO, "occasionally" doesn't qualify.
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Taking into account the photos posted of OP’s chameleon, any mention of falling needs to be addressed seriously. Why would there be a concern that the chameleon would fall if it weren’t already occurring? There is also how we each define ‘occasionally’. It could mean anywhere from a few times a day to once a month.
I stand behind that it is not normal for a healthy chameleon to fall. My male panther occassionally falls (maybe once every few weeks) which is due to his daredevil climbing combined with the long-term effects of his improper husbandry prior to my getting him. My male veiled will also do daredevil climbing and as he is healthy, he has never fallen. Neither have any of my other chams.
It has already been established and addressed that OP’s chameleon does have some issues that need correcting, which are most likely the cause of any falling. I don’t wish to derail this thread anymore than has already been done, so will not again comment on this.
 
There are major husbandry issues in this thread... This is why saying that "they are built to take falls" is dangerous. Falls are not normal... 9 times out of 10 they indicate a bigger issue. Which after looking at your husbandry it is in fact related. IT is also why nit picking if mealworms are ok or not is pointless... When mealworms and superworms are the only feeders offered then Mealworms are an issue as a feeder. They are not meant to be a staple feeder. And most people disagree on feeding them at all.


I will be going back through everything... @MissSkittles has already given a ton of accurate info I will be adding to it and repeating some info. We both keep Veileds and know their husbandry very well. We want to make sure you are being given accurate info. Please note that there are major areas that need to be corrected such as supplementation, humidity levels, enclosure size/set up, and obesity issues.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon -
  • The species- Veiled Chameleon
  • Sex- Male
  • Age- About 2.5?
  • How long has it been in your care- A little less then 2.5
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon- Everyday he's very social, happy, and loving
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? Super worms and meal worms... These are not adequate feeders. They do not gutload the same way crickets and dubia will. Adding some other feeders in that have less chiten would be preferable. See image to add variety.
  • What amount? I offer him 3 a day and he doesn't always eat them. At his age he should be eating 3 days a week 3 feeders. He is overweight. Being overweight can cause many issues including compromising organ function.
  • What is the schedule? He usually comes to me and asks me to take him to his outdoor enclosure. I take him out and let him outside for a few hours then I take him back in the house.
  • How are you gut-loading your feeders? With zucchini, cucumber, grapes, all kinds of fruits and veggies that I check to make sure they are safe for him. Gutload should be heavy on veg with very little fruit. see image.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? I sprinkle his food with repashy super food calcium plus with vitamins supplement and occasionally give him vitamin A plus... Both of these cause overdose issues. Can cause issues with being able to grip properly along with organ issues due to the D3 pulling the calcium out of the bones and depositing it into the organs causing organ failure. Repashy calcium plus LOD version should only be used 2 times a month. You should not be using the vitamin A plus at all. You want a plain calcium NO D3 for all other feedings. Vitamins such as A and D3 are stored in the tissues so it can take time for them to leave the body.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? He has an Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidifier system with his glass cage and a reptirain misting system in his outdoor cage. You should not be adding humidity during the day with a fogger system. This can lead to a respiratory infection especially in a glass enclosure.
  • How often and how long to you mist? Not sure it's automatic it's senses the humidity and goes off when it gets low. His reptirain outside sprays every he for 30 seconds. This again is dangerous in a glass cage.
  • Do you see your chameleon drinking? Yes he drinks a lot when I spray the bottle at his mouth lately I wonder if he's dehydrated but he gets a lot of water from his mistings so idk 🤷‍♀️ this is normally a pretty desperate action from a chameleon. Means something is wrong.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? He has been tested and has never had parasites. I'm looking at his 💩 rn it does looks a bit orangey yellow when it didn't before 🤔. It looks firm in consistency. If urate is not showing white this can be an indication of dehydration.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. - He used to have mouth rot like a year ago but I took him to the vet and he's better now
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, Thrive Tropical Reptile Terrarium Essentials Kit - 30 Gallon
What are the dimensions? 18"L x 18"W x 24"H This is extremely small for a chameleon of this size. You want a 2x2x4 enclosure.
Lighting - What brand-Reptisun T5 HO Terrium hood 14", size 15 watt florescent lamp and flukers 100 watt basking bulb with deep dome lamp
model, and types of lighting are you using?Listed above^^^ What bulb strength is it 5.0 or 10.0? 100 watt on this size and type of cage would cause issues. Dropping back bulb wattage from 100 watt to 60 watt is highly advised.
What is your daily lighting schedule? 7am to 7pm and also a few hrs of natural light from his outdoor cage
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? It says around 90 Basking is way too hot. 80-85 range nothing hotter. Hotter temps shorten lifespans and can lead to issues such as dehydration.
Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Not sure never checked 🤔 Should be getting a night time drop in the 60's for optimal health.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? Around 87 WAY too high. Daytime humidity for a Veiled would be 40-50%. Extreme risk of respiratory development and if the cage is constantly staying moist you can see issues with bacterial infections on their feet.
How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? He has an Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidifier system with his glass cage and a reptirain misting system in his outdoor cage.
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Mostly live Pothos and I bought him some tiny ladder's to climb on and he has some sticks from out back
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At the back of the house near the sliding glass door to my back yard
At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 4' 3" Ft from the ground
Location - Where are you geographically located? Central Florida

Start reading everything here for proper set up. Living in FL I highly recommend a screen cage to help lower humidity. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and this one https://chameleonacademy.com/case-study-2-x-2-x-4-cage/
 

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