Does He Look Happy?

[ChrisHibs]

Hi everyone, we're now on day 8 of owning our first ever chameleon. Just wanted to share a couple of photos that I've taken today and ask if he looks like he's doing OK so far?

He's usually very dark and spends most of his time basking (basking spot temp is 26.5°-27°).

He doesn't eat as much as I see othe4-people's 4-5 month olds eating which is worrying me a wee bit. The past 3 days hes only had 2 or three crickets and 1 superworm each day. He seems to really like the superworms and be less interested in crickets but ive read he shouldnt have too many of the superworms? I'm gutloading with repashy superload and dusting with exo terra calcium and multivitamins alternatively.

His poos look to be pretty textbook from what I've seen after googling "healthy chameleon poo" more times than I'd care to admit

All lights and heat go off at night then I run a fogger about an hour after the lights go out once the temp has dropped and that stays on for about 8 hours through the night.

 

[Alastair&Anna]

Hi everyone, we're now on day 8 of owning our first ever chameleon. Just wanted to share a couple of photos that I've taken today and ask if he looks like he's doing OK so far?

He's usually very dark and spends most of his time basking (basking spot temp is 26.5°-27°).

He doesn't eat as much as I see othe4-people's 4-5 month olds eating which is worrying me a wee bit. The past 3 days hes only had 2 or three crickets and 1 superworm each day. He seems to really like the superworms and be less interested in crickets but ive read he shouldnt have too many of the superworms? I'm gutloading with repashy superload and dusting with exo terra calcium and multivitamins alternatively.

His poos look to be pretty textbook from what I've seen after googling "healthy chameleon poo" more times than I'd care to admit

All lights and heat go off at night then I run a fogger about an hour after the lights go out once the temp has dropped and that stays on for about 8 hours through the night.

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I would add live plants instead of fake! And have many more branches going across ur enclosure. You should fill out a husbandry form too so more experienced keepers can help ya out if ya need it!

 

[ChrisHibs]

I would add live plants instead of fake! And have many more branches going across ur enclosure. You should fill out a husbandry form too so more experienced keepers can help ya out if ya need it!

There are live plants as well as the plastic ones I'm still looking for ideas to add more branches, I'll need to have some sort of central structure I just haven't found yet right piece of wood yet.

 

[Alastair&Anna]

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There are live plants as well as the plastic ones I'm still looking for ideas to add more branches, I'll need to have some sort of central structure I just haven't found yet right piece of wood yet.

Aight sounds good. Do you know the measurements of that enclosure? It should be 2ft by 2ft by 4ft

 

[ChrisHibs]

I think its 2x2x3, its the exo terra Viva+ Chameleon Vivarium. This isn't his final enclosure though, I'll increase the size as he grows.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

I'm still looking for ideas to add more branches, I'll need to have some sort of central structure I just haven't found yet right piece of wood yet.

Not necessarily.

Here are some ideas for branch & plant support. Some require anchoring to a frame—others do not.
IDK if any will help you now, but for later when you upgrade.

• dowel lattice
• aluminum stock supports
• vinyl lattice
• ceiling egg crate lattice
• square tomato cages
• goat fencing

I think its 2x2x3, its the exo terra Viva+ Chameleon Vivarium. This isn't his final enclosure though, I'll increase the size as he grows.

That enclosure is 23 x 19 x 36. Whether that's close may be arguable, but considering the recommended minimum (24 x 24 x 48) is larger than that, and recommended ideal (48 x 24 x 48) is twice the recommended minimum, it's kinda on the small side.

I'm getting a lot of links & prices for UK/EU. If you're there, have you considered Muji?
They're (IMO) comparable with Zen Habitats.

 

[bruce the cham]

add more branches lots more

 

[ChrisHibs]

Added a wee btanching structure to give him more places to climb and hide. I have a big pothos plant coming soon to give him some added coverage over the "tree" I've made him.

I've also swapped my UVB Light from an arcadia 8w 7% to an arcadia pro t5 22w 6% uvb fixture.

He's still not eating very much though, I'm offering crickets, calci worms and superworms but he's only having one or two insects a day. I'm going to try and make one of those feeders like the full throttle ones, I've tried to buy one but they don't seem to ship to Scotland. Hopefully that will help!

 

[CrisBruns]

Is the enclosure solid on all sides? Front looks to be glass?

 

[ChrisHibs]

Is the enclosure solid on all sides? Front looks to be glass?

Solid on 3 sides, glass front and mostly mesh top.

 

[CrisBruns]

Do you think one of the glass doors could be removed and replaced with screen?

 

[ChrisHibs]

Do you think one of the glass doors could be removed and replaced with screen?

Why would I do that?

 

[CrisBruns]

Why would I do that?

Better ventilation.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Why would I do that?

To create a stack effect, but to accomplish that, you need an intake opening at the very bottom (or floor) of the enclosure as well as the top.

I don't suppose there's any way to disassemble and flip the back of the enclosure, top to bottom?
That would relocate those two T-shaped vents to the bottom where they could create the stack effect.

An alternative might be to install a couple of small (2") soffet vents—one on each side wall—at the bottom of the side walls.

Another possibility... what will be done for drainage of the enclosure?

 

[ChrisHibs]

To create a stack effect, but to accomplish that, you need an intake opening at the very bottom (or floor) of the enclosure as well as the top.

I don't suppose there's any way to disassemble and flip the back of the enclosure, top to bottom?
That would relocate those two T-shaped vents to the bottom where they could create the stack effect.

An alternative might be to install a couple of small (2") soffet vents—one on each side wall—at the bottom of the side walls.

Another possibility... what will be done for drainage of the enclosure?

There's another of those t shaped vents at the bottom too. I don't keep the glass doors all the way closed, I leave a wee gap at either side for a bit of extra air flow during the day and then close when I'm fogging at night to keep the humidity in. I use RO water for fogging and misting.

There's currently no drainage but it dries out pretty quickly.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

There's another of those t shaped vents at the bottom too. I don't keep the glass doors all the way closed, I leave a wee gap at either side for a bit of extra air flow during the day and then close when I'm fogging at night to keep the humidity in. I use RO water for fogging and misting.

There's currently no drainage but it dries out pretty quickly.

I'm sorry, I feel like there's a miscommunication. To create the (desired/necessary) stack effect, openings need to be at the top & bottom—not along the edges of the doors.

Hold da phone.... I'm looking at a product description that says one of the features is

• Ventilated metal front rails

If that's true, that my be enough ventilation to produce the air movement desired.

I understand that there are some different opinions on chameleon housing between North America and Europe (this enclosure isn't even offered here as far as I can tell), but TBH, I have some concerns.

Sonny13, Pickle-cham, can you explain this to me? What's with a wooden enclosure with no drainage?

Repeated wet/dry cycles on the (wood?) floor will cause it to rot fairly quickly—faster and worse if the floor is veneered with a particleboard core.

 

[ChrisHibs]

I'm sorry, I feel like there's a miscommunication. To create the (desired/necessary) stack effect, openings need to be at the top & bottom—not along the edges of the doors.

Hold da phone.... I'm looking at a product description that says one of the features is

• Ventilated metal front rails

If that's true, that my be enough ventilation to produce the air movement desired.

I understand that there are some different opinions on chameleon housing between North America and Europe (this enclosure isn't even offered here as far as I can tell), but TBH, I have some concerns.

Sonny13, Pickle-cham, can you explain this to me? What's with a wooden enclosure with no drainage?

Repeated wet/dry cycles on the (wood?) floor will cause it to rot fairly quickly—faster and worse if the floor is veneered with a particleboard core.

You asked if I could turn it round so the t shaped vents were at the bottom, there's already a t shaped vent at the bottom at the back as well as the ventilated rails at the front.

The water doesn't sit on the wood at bottom, I have made a tray with double wall polycarbonate that keeps the bottom layer of wood dry.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

The water doesn't sit on the wood at bottom, I have made a tray with double wall polycarbonate that keeps the bottom layer of wood dry.

Ah... OK, that was not apparent or mentioned.

 

[ChrisHibs]

Ah... OK, that was not apparent or mentioned.

I think you can just about make it out in the picture but I should have mentioned it If I'm honest I'm not entirely happy with the whole drainage situation. I'm trying to find a tall cabinet to put it on that will allow me to use a bulkhead type set up and have drainage buckets in the cabinet underneath. I'll be building his next, bigger enclosure myself so I'll have all that sort of thing sorted.

Now that I've had my enclosure well and truly critiqued could anyone offer some tips on the feeding thing Should I worry that he's only eating a few instects a day? For example today he's had 1 cricket and 2 calci worms somedays he'll eat a wee bit more but not much. He doesn't look thin or anything and his poo looks pretty much perfect with the wee white bit at the end.

Here are a couple of photos and a video of him eating:

 

[Ares05]

The first few days or even up to week of decreased eating is normal at first. After about two weeks of having him I'd expect him to start eating as much as a young chameleon should though. Where did you get him from? Id recommend getting a fecal test on him. Better to catch this earlier than later if parasites are the issue. He is young and looks healthy though, I wouldn't stress too much but definitely get that fecal done. Young'uns should be offered as much food as they will eat for the most part (Usually 10-15 feeders, give or take). BSFL aren't really a staple food and I personally don't offer anything but the flies for enrichment. I would stick to things like crickets, roaches, silkworms, etc. Appropriately sized of course.

Supplements should be along the lines of:
Plain (no D3) calcium each feeding, multivitamin (No D3) once every 2 weeks, and calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks.
(I also think that some just use Multivitamin with D3 twice a month and no d3 calcium all the other days.)

Distance from highest branch/hangout area to UVB? If I read your UVB specs right, it should be 8-9 inches distance (assuming it is on top of the screen). Basking temps should be 80-low 80's (Fahrenheit).

I would personally remove any leftover fake plants and replace with real ones. Panthers aren't as likely to eat their plants like Veiled's, but there are only benefits to switching. I would also go outside and get some natural branches. Don't get anything with sap. Gently wash with some water, soap too if you want. The natural shape of the branches gives more textures, sizes and shapes for their feet as opposed to dowels.

Only run the humidifier/fogger when temps dip (mid to low 60's). Honestly it really depends species to species as to how necessary foggers are at nighttime. I personally don't use one at the current moment as I can get the humidity needed at night with lots of live plants, cool temperatures, and the humidity leftover from the pre-bedtime misting. It's really something to look into and make a decision based on what you think is doable.

I use willow lattice along the sides on my enclosure to easily secure branches, plants pots, etc.

I would honestly start working on his adult enclosure. That way you can get drainage worked out and get everything just how you want it, while he still has a good place to stay in his current setup. Chameleons of his age can usually move right in to their adult enclosure without issue, as long as their food is contained so they can easily find it.

You're doing great. Nobody starts out perfect!