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Are you putting him into a basically bare cage or are you fixing it all up as if it is a permanent home?But at the moment, he's resides in the enclosure I won't be possible of successfully desinfect (wooden cage)
Will the treatment itself be enough for him to not catch the coccidia again?
Ok just make sure this new one is easy to move cleaning for coccidia is the worst out of all the parasites.The new Cage will be built of aluminum frame and the insect net present in the current Cage(I'll just take it off) I will also desinfect part of the fake plants( non porous ones) and bring them to the new cage. I will also buy some new ones to compensate the lesser amount of clubbing spac
The tongue looks normal. Can you provide additional pics of his face though so I can see his eye turrets when he is not being misted.Surely, as I cannot provide bio active soil ( the soil is too cold for isopods, and they just die) I decided for easy cleanable paper sheets
(as most likely the coccidia came from feces i couldnt find in the soil, and couldnt be cleaned by the dead isopods)
I was also talking about my cham's yellow tongue.
Does it look normal? (Photo attached)
I feel like he got worse after taking the meds, im still supposed to give IT to him three more time...
Yeah little one does not feel well. Need to get him drinking and eating if possible. Eye turrets being sunk in like that can indicate health issue but can also indicate dehydration. If the urates are coming out mostly orange then dehydration is an issue.View attachment 334703View attachment 334704View attachment 334705
Here are the pictures. I can sometimes see a golden light inside of his eye.
You said…”I’ve gotten a few wild caughts over the years and spent ridiculous amounts of money on vet bills to try to save declining wc chams“…when I first started keeping chameleons over 35 years ago, they were all wild caught. So many of them came in on deaths doorstep.
You said…“One thing I’ve learned in my experience is that there seems to be a point where the stress of medications and frequent vet visits becomes worse than the disease itself.”…this is true IMHO too.
You said…“I’ve definitely learned that with wild caughts acclimation and low stress can be a life saver- and to gauge more accurately when they should be seen by a vet.“…some never acclimate even when they aren’t taken to a vet and are kept in as low a stress situation as is possible and seem to have no issues when they arrive. Some just decline until they die.
You said…”Of course not all chams are the same; and CB chams are generally much more tolerant of vet visits and medication administering.”…CB are definitely more tolerant of vet visits…but I don’t think it means they are more tolerant of medications.
man, you’ve been at this a while. Good to see my experiences are pretty much the same- despite only keeping them for around a decade or so. And good point about the medications. I agree. My only thought was that most captive bred seem more tolerant of human interaction or handling- but even that isn’t always the case.You said…”I’ve gotten a few wild caughts over the years and spent ridiculous amounts of money on vet bills to try to save declining wc chams“…when I first started keeping chameleons over 35 years ago, they were all wild caught. So many of them came in on deaths doorstep.
You said…“One thing I’ve learned in my experience is that there seems to be a point where the stress of medications and frequent vet visits becomes worse than the disease itself.”…this is true IMHO too.
You said…“I’ve definitely learned that with wild caughts acclimation and low stress can be a life saver- and to gauge more accurately when they should be seen by a vet.“…some never acclimate even when they aren’t taken to a vet and are kept in as low a stress situation as is possible and seem to have no issues when they arrive. Some just decline until they die.
You said…”Of course not all chams are the same; and CB chams are generally much more tolerant of vet visits and medication administering.”…CB are definitely more tolerant of vet visits…but I don’t think it means they are more tolerant of medications.
His appetite should pick up more as he gets through the medication. Just keep offering food and as much as he will eat.He hardly dropped anything up until today morning.
The urate was light yellow. Nearly white.
But that doesn't change much as he still drinks a lot.
I got informed by my vet that the most recent feces were free of coccidia. but there are still nematodes to deal with.
As goes for eating, he has eaten around 3-4 cockroaches yesterday. I bought him some crickets today, and he looked kinda interested in them. It looks far better than few times ago.
As goes for his look, he is nearly constantly dark gray, or occasionally, he has his dark green pattern visible.
I'm a bit worried about his legs. they're so thin. I suppose they get better as he eats more.
Force feeding is iffy... You can stress them out quite a bit trying to do this and when they are not feeling well stress is not a good thing. How long has it actually been since he ate? Was the tongue working properly then? What supplements had you been using and for how long?Update: Jojo goes through his medication pretty well (he's still moving normally, sometimes he really got the bright colors *sadly pretty rare but its still a step forward*)
The thing is, he still hasn't dropped any feces or eaten any bugs in the past days.
As such, I would like to know how could I force feed him, so he don't get too weak due to lack of food.
As I said in my previous message, he was kind of hyped for the crickets, as he even chased them, but didn't manage to open his mouth and shoot with his tongue to catch them.
It's the most troubling thing at the moment.
Please post a picture of the labels of your supplements. I need to double check them. And how long have you had him that you have been using these supplements?I was using the Calcium powder along with every feeding, and the reptivite vitamins once every week.
Last time I remember he released any "food feces" was around a week ago.
Since then, he was only dropping urine sometimes. I also found out that he hasn't eaten the cockroaches i thought he did on the friday.
They succeeded to escape from the bowl, and I had to eliminate them.
Since the last time he was eating, I couldn't notice him even try to shoot with his tongue. He only reached out with it to the water droplets, but surely, on a shorter distance.
Ok so I am not familiar with the calcium brand but it being without D3 and plain calcium is correct. The reptivite with D3 is also correct. But usage for these would be calcium without D3 at all feedings and then the reptivite only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Supplements should be lightly dusted on feeders. They should not look like powdered donuts.
Ok so with him having coccidia you can not free feed.. But since he is not going for the cup or hand feeding. I want you to try to put one on the screen close to him. That way it would not be crawling where he passed a fecal. See if he will tag it from the screen. Let me know what he does with this.I have tried to hand feed him and bring him the bowl much closer.
With the bowl, he just ignored it, and just turned back, he even walked on it, looked at the bugs, but still he didn't do anything.
As goes for the hand feeding, he let me get very close with the cockroach leg stuck between my fingers, so it was moving, trying to release free.
Jojo only looked at it, and simply ignored the whole fact.
The tongue and his mouth generally looks okay as I gave him medicines, but the tongue is really concerning.