First Time Owner Concerns

[KingLewy]

Hey, first time I've owned a chameleon. I have a male panther chameleon which I've now had for a total of 3 days. When I initially viewed him in the shop, he was very active and happy to be held. I had the opportunity to hold him myself and he was very friendly.

Once I got him home I left him for 24 hours to adjust to his new environment (vivarium is bigger than the one he was previously housed in). I was recommended to do this by the shop keeper. I've since tried to hold him each evening when I get home from work, but he hasn't been willing to climb onto my hand yet.

My concern comes from the fact that I'm yet to see evidence of him eating. In the shop they showed me that they hand fed him locust. I have tried to replicate this, but he hasn't been interested. So I placed 3 locust in the enclosure, which are still there.

Should I be concerned? Is there something I'm not doing correctly?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Most chams want absolutely nothing to do with humans. It is totally normal for a Cham to hide for the first week or two. Normal to not take food for up to the first week. How are you watering him and have you seen him drink?

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Answer these questions and post pics of your Cham and viv.

Chameleon Info:

◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

◦ Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.


--------------


Please Note:

1 The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.

2 Photos can be very helpful.

 

[KingLewy]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Panther, male, approximately 1 year old. Owned for under a week.
• Handling - It was handled daily in store, since I've had him I'm yet to successfully handle him.
• Feeding - Locust and some type of worm. 3 locust or 3 worms per day. I've purchased the live food from the same shop I purchased the Chameleon from.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - At the moment I'm using a spray bottle, as I'm awaiting new tubing for my Monsoon RS400. I have seen him drink after spraying.
• Fecal Description - I'm yet to see anything.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Exo Terra glass vivarium with screen top. 36” x 18” x 36” (WxDxH)
• Lighting - I'm using an infrared light for heat and four 25w UV lights. The infrared light is attached to a Microclimate thermostat to control how often it is on.
• Temperature - 80F is what I was informed by the shop keeper.
• Humidity - Between 60 & 70%. I'm currently using a spray bottle, however am hoping to fix my Monsoon RS400 this evening to mist on a timer.
• Plants - No live plants
• Placement - My cage is by my patio doors in the living room. The top of the cage is about 5ft from the floor.
• Location - I'm in the southeast of the United Kingdom.

I'll post some photos when I get home this evening. I'm currently on my lunch break at work.

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Where are your supplements and UVB lighting?

 

[KingLewy]

Lighting is four of these: https://www.swallowaquatics.co.uk/r...ing/hagen-repti-glo-5-0-26w-compact-lamp.html

I'm yet to use any supplements.

Interestingly when I got home today from work, I did manage to handle him. He was precautious at first and very sluggish in his movements. Then he excreted, what I can only assume was faeces, on my hand. It was huge and in a transparent sack with white at the end of it.

Afterwards he's been fine. Much more energetic on me and inside the vivarium. I assume this may have had something to do with it, as I haven't seen anything like this around the cage before?

 

[JacksJill]

That's a combo of poo and pee (urates). They don't eliminate fluid the way we do but instead have that white portion that is filtered from the kidneys. It's more like what birds do. If you look you will see some orange granules in there. This happens when they are either not getting enough water or in this case where they have not eliminated on a regular basis. To be on the safe side some extra misting time would be a good idea while he gets used to his new territory.

 

[Syreptyon]

Okay, couple of changes you ought to make to your husbandry to improve his life even more:

(1) First off, I would really recommend you stop trying to handle him so often. Even if he is active while out, that doesn't mean he's having a good time. They get bright like that and mobile because they're stressed out and want to escape. It is a big and unnecessary source of stress for him, especially while he is acclimating to his new home. Give it time and you will be rewarded with trust.

(2) What worms are you using? Not all worms are good choices.

(3) At his age, you should be feeding him 6-8 appropriately sized feeders every other day (although I realize that he hasn't necessarily eaten so far, this is just for your future reference). Their metabolisms slow down as they reach maturity.

(4) SUPPLEMENTS. This is the biggest issue I see so far. It is highly concerning that you do not so much as mention them without being encouraged to by a different member. Have you done your proper research on this highly sensitive animal? If you had, you would know how important this is. You need to be dusting his feeders with a powdered calcium without vitamin D3 at every feeding, a powdered calcium WITH D3 twice a month, and a multivitamin twice a month as well. Again, this presupposes that he WILL eat to begin with, but when he does, this is what you'll need to do.

(5) I would be concerned that your vivarium is actually too small. 48" tall is the recommended minimum for panther chameleons, which is a whole foot taller than yours.

(6) You should definitely not use red lights with chameleons. They are sensitive to color and their lights are meant to represent the sun. The sun produces white light and your lights should reflect the same. Chameleons are especially known to be perturbed by the color red. I would normally warn you against the compact fluorescent UVB lights you're using, but the main issue is that on their own they don't produce enough UVB. With 4 of them like you have, though, I'm not sure - might be fine the way you have it.

He is a gorgeous chameleon, by the way!!!

 

[KingLewy]

Thank you very much for all the feedback.

I'll hold back on the handling, it's just the shop keeper told me they handle him daily to feed him - and I was nervous if this was not maintained it may cause problems. However as you've explained, this is quite the opposite.

The worms are morio worms. They were recommended by the shop keeper, as that was what they're currently feeding him on. 3 locust daily, with 3 worms once a week.

Supplements, I have looked into before I purchased him, and I have got them. I've been told that their food is dusted with calcium powder weekly (https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/arcadia-earthpro-ca/), and every other week with vitamin powder (https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/arcadia-earthpro-a/). However since I've only had him a few days and he's yet to eat, I didn't make the effort to add the details to this thread. My apologies.

The vivarium and lighting was recommended by the reptile specialist at the shop itself. I did question the size of the vivarium several times concerning how big he may grow, however I was reassured that it was large enough. I'm disappointed to hear that what I've been advised to purchase from the shop is incorrect. Are you able to recommend an alternative product to replace the red light please?

 

[Syreptyon]

Yes, certainly! The basking bulb is actually about the simplest thing you can imagine. All you need is a regular, household incandescent bulb! You may have to guess about what wattage will produce the amount of heat that you want, but it's really that simple.

As for the supplements, that schedule the reptile shop keeps them on is not acceptable. Unfortunately, when it comes to chameleons, reptile shops rarely have the correct info to give their customers (unless they specialize specifically in chameleons). The regimen I mentioned is the correct one for both panthers and veileds. Calcium only once a week is a one-way ticket to metabolic bone disease

 

[Syreptyon]

Oh, and I can't believe I didn't know superworms were also called morio worms! The more I know. Those are fine to feed, but not to use as a staple

 

[Char333p]

Okay, couple of changes you ought to make to your husbandry to improve his life even more:

(1) First off, I would really recommend you stop trying to handle him so often. Even if he is active while out, that doesn't mean he's having a good time. They get bright like that and mobile because they're stressed out and want to escape. It is a big and unnecessary source of stress for him, especially while he is acclimating to his new home. Give it time and you will be rewarded with trust.

(2) What worms are you using? Not all worms are good choices.

(3) At his age, you should be feeding him 6-8 appropriately sized feeders every other day (although I realize that he hasn't necessarily eaten so far, this is just for your future reference). Their metabolisms slow down as they reach maturity.

(4) SUPPLEMENTS. This is the biggest issue I see so far. It is highly concerning that you do not so much as mention them without being encouraged to by a different member. Have you done your proper research on this highly sensitive animal? If you had, you would know how important this is. You need to be dusting his feeders with a powdered calcium without vitamin D3 at every feeding, a powdered calcium WITH D3 twice a month, and a multivitamin twice a month as well. Again, this presupposes that he WILL eat to begin with, but when he does, this is what you'll need to do.

(5) I would be concerned that your vivarium is actually too small. 48" tall is the recommended minimum for panther chameleons, which is a whole foot taller than yours.

(6) You should definitely not use red lights with chameleons. They are sensitive to color and their lights are meant to represent the sun. The sun produces white light and your lights should reflect the same. Chameleons are especially known to be perturbed by the color red. I would normally warn you against the compact fluorescent UVB lights you're using, but the main issue is that on their own they don't produce enough UVB. With 4 of them like you have, though, I'm not sure - might be fine the way you have it.

He is a gorgeous chameleon, by the way!!!

Sorry to hop on your post, but with the vitamins.. when i do them i do with d3 and the next day the multi. Is that okay or should i just combine the two?

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Sorry to hop on your post, but with the vitamins.. when i do them i do with d3 and the next day the multi. Is that okay or should i just combine the two?

Keep it simple.
1st and 15th of the month - Calcium with D3 & multivitamin.
Every other day - Calcium without D3

 

[todd2010]

I was also duped and had a bad outcome with my first cham due to the pet shop not having the first clue what chams need. Definitely listen to the advice here. The group here cares unbelievably about these guys and you will be rewarded richly from it.

 

[Char333p]

Keep it simple.
1st and 15th of the month - Calcium with D3 & multivitamin.
Every other day - Calcium without D3

Okay so just combine the two.. the multi and with d3.

 

[Goose502]

I would have to say the enclosure is fine. I use the exact same one for my adult male panther chameleon. I would have purchased a larger one if it existed, but that size is fine, just make sure you have plenty plant coverage for him to hide if he wants. Your enclosure offers many advantages over the popular all screen ones that most people recommend.