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Is that the density of plants throughout the entire greenhouse?Here's some pics of GH. Pond is on left side, most plants on right.
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The screen cage is in the greenhouse. Right now it has a mourning gecko in it, i may release him into the greenhouse at some point. Their nocturnal and very quick so i think he should be ok. The other part is a shed/mancave/gym that i removed the outside wall after i attached the greenhouse. The shed is 12'x18' and is a great hangout. I have a 24k btu mini split for heat and a/c and a wood burning stove for additional heat. I really don't want to break it into sections unless i have to. So far it's been ok my main complaint is i don't see the animals enough.I can see how you could separate it into two sections, granted I don’t know the exact layout. Is there a way to separate into a third section and maybe you put the fourth cham in that screen cage in your house?
Could you move the cage into your house with a cham in it? The mourning beck could very easily become food though if it’s young enough and small enough. You could at least do different areas of dense plants with no plants connecting the different areas together, but them not seeing each other at all is the correct way to go. Chams can hide stress well, plus you not seeing them enough could mean you don’t have enough of a baseline for each cham in how they behave under stress versus withoutThe screen cage is in the greenhouse. Right now it has a mourning gecko in it, i may release him into the greenhouse at some point. Their nocturnal and very quick so i think he should be ok. The other part is a shed/mancave/gym that i removed the outside wall after i attached the greenhouse. The shed is 12'x18' and is a great hangout. I have a 24k btu mini split for heat and a/c and a wood burning stove for additional heat. I really don't want to break it into sections unless i have to. So far it's been ok my main complaint is i don't see the animals enough.
The thing is i have these credit type cards that have a go/nogo on uvb. When I hold them up in the shed they show no go. In the greenhouse they read acceptable uvb when the suns out. I hate to spend 300 bucks on a meter i'll use only once.So you probably do not want to hear this but I highly recommend getting a solarmeter 6.5 and checking to see if you are getting any UVI at all through the glass. I seriously would be shocked if you are. And if you are not then you have to put up T5HO lighting so they have access to it... Or they will start developing MBD and be susceptible to illness from reduced immune system.
I could but i'll release the gecko into the greenhouse first to give him a chance. I know what you mean about stress but everytime I see any of them they have bright green colors and go right after any wax worms I put down. I think the fact that they have so much room to wander simulates their natural environment better than most cages.Could you move the cage into your house with a cham in it? The mourning beck could very easily become food though if it’s young enough and small enough. You could at least do different areas of dense plants with no plants connecting the different areas together, but them not seeing each other at all is the correct way to go. Chams can hide stress well, plus you not seeing them enough could mean you don’t have enough of a baseline for each cham in how they behave under stress versus without
UVB cards don’t usually work, and if they do, they’re inconsistent and don’t tell you the strength of the UVI. A Solarmeter 6.5 isn’t a one use item, you use it constantly to make sure UVI levels are, and stay at, the proper levelsThe thing is i have these credit type cards that have a go/nogo on uvb. When I hold them up in the shed they show no go. In the greenhouse they read acceptable uvb when the suns out. I hate to spend 300 bucks on a meter i'll use only once.
The greenhouse is definitely better than a cage, which is why it’d be best to separate it into 4 different sections with visible barriersI could but i'll release the gecko into the greenhouse first to give him a chance. I know what you mean about stress but everytime I see any of them they have bright green colors and go right after any wax worms I put down. I think the fact that they have so much room to wander simulates their natural environment better than most cages.
Then instead spend about $60 each for some Arcadia Pro T5 6% uvb lights and ensure that your animals are getting what 5hey need to remain alive and healthy. Even if somehow just enough uvb is present to trigger your card, it certainly isn’t even close to the levels that they need. Uvb is more complex than ‘go or no go’. Chameleons need a general UV index of around 3.0 (at least panther and veileds do). Your card might be triggered with a uv index as low as 0.01 for all we know and that is as good as none. I don’t know if this video will help explain it a bit. It’s about the different output and ranges of varied types of uvb lights and illustrates clearly.I hate to spend 300 bucks on a meter i'll use only once.
Correct but the cards do not tell you want the UVI actually is. Those cards will pick up 0.1 UVI when you actually need a 3 UVI. So you are basing it on them picking up any tiny fraction of UVI. Unless you know for sure that the panels in your greenhouse let UVI pass through then more then likely it is standard glass or plastic that cuts UVI.The thing is i have these credit type cards that have a go/nogo on uvb. When I hold them up in the shed they show no go. In the greenhouse they read acceptable uvb when the suns out. I hate to spend 300 bucks on a meter i'll use only once.
Look up uvb test cards vs Solarmeter 6.5, they all prove the cards don’t work. The cards will pick up and say there’s uv, but they won’t say which type of uv or the strength of it, which is crucial! It could be uva, uvc, or 0.1% uvbThese cards are designed for measuring uvb for herps are there any credible sources that prove they don't work?