Texas Panther Man
New Member
Go to lowes or hd and pick up a dig hygrometer/therm combo unit. They are about 10 bux. That zoo med unit is strictly a therm it doesnt measure your ambient rel humidity.
Had to do something.
- Thread starter port
- Start date
Ryan Jarosek
New Member
You should provide a basking light no matter what the temp just adjust the wattage to meet the heating needs. The ambient temp in the room should allow them to find an area to cool down.
Even if its 80 in the house it is natural for the them to bask. They will seek out the light even if its not that warm. It should be provided to provide as much as a natural setting for them. Its in their nature to bask so some sort of light should be used.
IMO -Taking away from whats natural for them is not the best idea. I try to replicate the best I can their natural environment. Matching daylight hours , providing them an option to regulate themselves.
Even if its 80 in the house it is natural for the them to bask. They will seek out the light even if its not that warm. It should be provided to provide as much as a natural setting for them. Its in their nature to bask so some sort of light should be used.
IMO -Taking away from whats natural for them is not the best idea. I try to replicate the best I can their natural environment. Matching daylight hours , providing them an option to regulate themselves.
Ryan Jarosek
New Member
I wanted to mention that I am all for temp regulating the females like Jann is mentioning but I still feel they need at least a light with a small temp change so they can regulate naturally.
Syn
Avid Member
Chameleons need time to adjust.. She probably ate it trying to get a cricket... if she was just eating it just to eat it I can't imagine what she was trying to do to the repticarpet.
She is probably eating when you aren't looking.
summoner12
Avid Member
Yes, I do agree with this as well. It is a good idea to allow the chameleon to reach 'operating temperature' during the day to ensure the chameleons body remains healthy. By not getting warm enough the immune system can break down and the cham can get sick.
If you wanted to avoid all day basking you could put the heat lamp on a separate timer from the UVB and only allow basking for a limited time.
But, no basking lamp = bad.
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
I would highly recommend using Lynda's method. http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
Lynda is "Kinyonga" hear on the forums and our most highly respected member here on the forums, with more reputation than anyone else on the forums. She has been raising veileds for over 20 years and some of her females have lived to over 7 years old. Lynda also lives in Canada, a cold climate.
Ryan Jarosek
New Member
I don't think anyone is disagreeing with the message "Lynda" is stating. If you read the paragraph she does say she does not use a basking light but ....
"I maintain the same lighting and temperature range when the females are moved to their adult cages. I do not use a basking light, but continue with a double fluorescent hood keeping temperatures in the low eighties. The cages are of various sizes, but the smallest is 24" tall x 24" wide x 18" deep."
She does use a double florescent tube that provides the temperatures needed as well as more light. There is still a cooler zone for the chameleon to regulate itself. The two bulbs provide a basking temp as well as helps maintain a temperature gradient. It does not matter if a basking area is setup. They will seek out the light at the top of the cage and use it to bask. If a brighter light is up there they will sit under it. Even if its not warmer.
I stand behind my statement that it is not natural for them to be in a constant temp of 80+ without a place to self regulate (A cooler area in the cage) It is important for new keepers to understand that self regulation is very important to the chameleon. The idea is to regulate the basking or upper cage temps to control egg production while providing as natural of a setting as possible. It is just as important to cool down as it is to warm up.
My experience is when there is a basking spot provided even if it provides 0 heat it is still used. The light triggers a reaction and in my experience provides a better more natural setting with more light that the chameleon will and does use. We do so much to make sure the psychological well being of our chameleons. Why is this any different than keeping the cage up high, in low traffic etc etc. A more natural environment causes less stress so why not take the extra step?
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jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
I just don't want a new keeper to set up a basking spot for a baby female veiled and cook her or later, onset a large premature clutch. Experienced keepers maybe able to use a basking bulb and be able to keep a low 80's basking spot but this is a new keeper with a part glass tank using a 50 watt heat bulb and a 75 watt on a baby. I just want to make sure he gets rid of those blubs and uses Lynda's method since he only has the one veiled and not planning to breed any time soon. I’m afraid the baby will be going from 100 at the top to 98 in the bottom with that glass bottom tank. I do realize how important an ambient temp is and only trying to insure that he is able to have an ambient temp and with several people saying a basking bulb is ok, who knows…... he may decide to still use the 75 watt bulb on the baby.
Ryan Jarosek
New Member
Good point and I totally agree.
port
New Member
Okay here is my how to ask for help. My new enclosure should be here tonight or tomorrow.
Your Chameleon- 2-3 month old female veiled, in my care since august 26th 2010.
Handling- Once or twice a week, she does not seemed stressed when handled, does not hiss or bite.
Feeding- Small Crickets gutloaded with veggies cale, dandelion greens, collard greens and zilla gutload food,
Supplements- almost always use calcium supplement without d3 on occasionally put a cricket in without coating it.
Watering- I mist several times a day, keep humidity 60+ she does not like being sprayed but once a day i soak her until i see her open her mouth.
Fecal Description- Large turds urate is white everday.
Cage type- Built from a 10 gallon aquarium with a 15 inch high screen enclosure on top. 20in x 10.5in x 28. bottom is lined with paper towel.
Lighting- Night Black Heat Incandescent Spot Light 50 watt, Reptiglo 10.0 UVB 13 watt compact, I use a double bulb fixture, heat light is on 24 hours, uvb is 12 hours on 12 off.
Temperature- At Highest 81 at basking spot, low cool bottom of glass cage is a low of 72. Measured with the zoomed thermometer with probe.
Humidity- Humidity is steady 60 when i mist rises to 80, measured with an analog hygrometer.
Plants- There are no live plants in the enclosure a few fake ones from the craft store and pet store, today i am getting plants for the new enclosure and will be using pothos and draecena plants.
Placement- In my room on my desk 4 feet high off the ground, no one really but me around, my room is a dark color gray and she gets little sunlight she will be moving in front of a large window with sunlight when the new enclosure gets here.
Location- Long Island NY
Not really any problem, she seems to not being eating as much as when i first got her.
Your Chameleon- 2-3 month old female veiled, in my care since august 26th 2010.
Handling- Once or twice a week, she does not seemed stressed when handled, does not hiss or bite.
Feeding- Small Crickets gutloaded with veggies cale, dandelion greens, collard greens and zilla gutload food,
Supplements- almost always use calcium supplement without d3 on occasionally put a cricket in without coating it.
Watering- I mist several times a day, keep humidity 60+ she does not like being sprayed but once a day i soak her until i see her open her mouth.
Fecal Description- Large turds urate is white everday.
Cage type- Built from a 10 gallon aquarium with a 15 inch high screen enclosure on top. 20in x 10.5in x 28. bottom is lined with paper towel.
Lighting- Night Black Heat Incandescent Spot Light 50 watt, Reptiglo 10.0 UVB 13 watt compact, I use a double bulb fixture, heat light is on 24 hours, uvb is 12 hours on 12 off.
Temperature- At Highest 81 at basking spot, low cool bottom of glass cage is a low of 72. Measured with the zoomed thermometer with probe.
Humidity- Humidity is steady 60 when i mist rises to 80, measured with an analog hygrometer.
Plants- There are no live plants in the enclosure a few fake ones from the craft store and pet store, today i am getting plants for the new enclosure and will be using pothos and draecena plants.
Placement- In my room on my desk 4 feet high off the ground, no one really but me around, my room is a dark color gray and she gets little sunlight she will be moving in front of a large window with sunlight when the new enclosure gets here.
Location- Long Island NY
Not really any problem, she seems to not being eating as much as when i first got her.
beeze
Avid Member
I can see a few changes that you need to make on you supplements, you need three supplements.
Calcium witout D3 to use at almost every feeding
Calcium with D3 to use twice a month
Herptivite to use twice a month
You also need to get rid of all those lights and get a Reptisun 5.0 tube bulb 18 or 24 inches. You don't need a black light or a spot light and the compact bulbs have cause eye problems in the past and caused some chameleons to go blind.
Calcium witout D3 to use at almost every feeding
Calcium with D3 to use twice a month
Herptivite to use twice a month
You also need to get rid of all those lights and get a Reptisun 5.0 tube bulb 18 or 24 inches. You don't need a black light or a spot light and the compact bulbs have cause eye problems in the past and caused some chameleons to go blind.
port
New Member
Today the cage arrived, I put it together which was simple and quick. The cage is sturdy and HUGE! I picked up an umbrella plant and a Hibiscus bush that I am going to clean off and get in there. My concern is of her size, she is still tiny about 2.5 inches, and her cage is a 24 24 48. I have not been successful with hand feeding her yet, she seems to like to hunt. I don't think it will be easy for her to continue hunting in the big cage. Is it time to try cup feeding in the big cage? The big cage is going in a better room than where she is now, she will have plenty of sunlight and less disturbance. Plus live plants and no glass. Please someone leave their opinion on what should be done... Thank you ahead of time.-port
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
That cage will be to large for a few months. She will need something no bigger than 30 inches high to start with. Have you checked out my blog on what all you need for veiled babies. If you'd take the time to read it you might find it very helpful. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
laurie
Retired Moderator
Don't panic we can work with your new cage. Turn the cage on it's side so the door opens toward you. Put a divider in the middle to make a 24x24x24 or even a 24x24x18 would work well. Since there will be no bottom buy a cheap shower curtain at the dollar store and cover it with a couple of towels. You now have drainage! This does mean you will need to change the towels at least every other day. If the towels are inside the cage they are a lot easier to get out and change. You can use a piece of screen as a divider (screen edges away from cham), another towel, foam poster board, the list goes on just use you head. Don't forget to show us what to do.
Keeping chameleons isn't rocket science but a lot of science and basic understanding of chameleons, their natural habitat, what we can to as far as trying to made them feel "at home" in our foreign to them world is required. That is what all of us try to do, but we all do things a bit different, that makes it your job to research, read and determine what works for you and your chameleon.
Keeping chameleons isn't rocket science but a lot of science and basic understanding of chameleons, their natural habitat, what we can to as far as trying to made them feel "at home" in our foreign to them world is required. That is what all of us try to do, but we all do things a bit different, that makes it your job to research, read and determine what works for you and your chameleon.
