Hello Leon

SpIKe6535

SpIKe6535

Member
Say Hello to Leon :)
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That was fast. I was hoping you would read and learn more before getting another. Please answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread at the top of the the health forum so we can make sure that you set things up right this time. Also, include supplements and how often you are going to use each and what you're going to feed/gutload the insects with. BE SPECIFIC. I don't want you to end up with a sick chameleon again!
 
That was fast. Veileds may be cheap but they certainly are not disposable, that's a living, breathing, valuable life. It's not just a cool pet. You have a lot to learn and you need to learn it fast. Read and reread the care sheets and I agree you need to fill out the how to ask for help form so we can help you correct any issues. I also know it's tempting to want to hold it but leave him alone for awhile so he can get adjusted to his new home.
 
should i still use they same lightning from before ? and no heat lamp ?
kinyonga said:
That was fast. I was hoping you would read and learn more before getting another. Please answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread at the top of the the health forum so we can make sure that you set things up right this time. Also, include supplements and how often you are going to use each and what you're going to feed/gutload the insects with. BE SPECIFIC. I don't want you to end up with a sick chameleon again!
Click to expand...
yeah it was fast. i did say i was gonna get another one soon because i wasn't gonna give up. i will feed the crickets with the container on the left and dust them with the one on the right
 

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Nursemaia said:
That was fast. Veileds may be cheap but they certainly are not disposable, that's a living, breathing, valuable life. It's not just a cool pet. You have a lot to learn and you need to learn it fast. Read and reread the care sheets and I agree you need to fill out the how to ask for help form so we can help you correct any issues. I also know it's tempting to want to hold it but leave him alone for awhile so he can get adjusted to his new home.
Click to expand...
i buried my old one :( and yeah i know it will cause stress on them if i do. i don't consider them disposable but i didn't want to give up just from wrong information.
 
There's nothing wrong with not giving up but you have to research and learn 1st or you're going to have problems with the new one too. The gutload that you pictured is terrible and you need more than that multivitamin to dust them with. We've told you about this on your other threads.
 
Nursemaia said:
There's nothing wrong with not giving up but you have to research and learn 1st or you're going to have problems with the new one too. The gutload that you pictured is terrible and you need more than that multivitamin to dust them with. We've told you about this on your other threads.
Click to expand...
what should gut load them with then?
 
I use bug burger or superload. Other members like cricket crack or make their own and give them fresh fruit and vegetables.
 
Your Chameleon : veiled chameleon, boy, on the babyish side
Handling : not at all right now since i just got him. i want him to get comfortable first.
Feeding : small crickets 10 a day.
Supplements : Rep - cal is the brand. herptivite with beta carotene : multivitamins.
Watering : a spray bottle for now but im getting a auto spray soon.
Fecal Description : hasn't done any yet.
History : no history

Cage Type : 16" x 16" x 30". screen.
Temperature : 70 degrees in the middle of the cage.
Humidity : 70%
Plants : no live plants yet
Placement : near my door. not really near a vent.
Location : Southern California, US
 
You're already not listening to advice we already gave you....so this is chameleons 101...and your only chance to redeem yourself in my books.

You need a proper cage like exo Terra with the screen lid and vents at the front. It will need to be 2'x2'x2' at least for him as an adult...but one slightly smaller will do for now. You need a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that will provide a temperature in the low 80's in the basking area with a branch that lets him sit close to it but not so close that it will burn him this light should be in a hood. You need a UVB long linear tube light like Repti-sun 5.0 in a reflective hood. You need a dripper and a hand sprayer. You need plants that are non toxic and have been well washed and branches to climb on. The soil in the pots should be covered with rocks about the size of a plum so the chameleon can't eat the soil. I do not recommend using a substrate.

You need a phosphorous-free calcium powder to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon. I use Rep-cal. This provides calcium for his bones and muscles.
You need a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to dust with twice a month. This will provide it with some D3 without overdosing it and letting it produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will not build up and cause health issues like D3 from supplements can as long as the chameleon can move in and out if the light at will.
You need a vitamin powder like Herptivite with a prOformed (beta carotene) source of vitamin A. PrOfromed sources will not build up in the system like prEformed sources can. This means that you will have to decide when or if your chameleon needs any prEformed.

It's important to feed/gutload the insects with a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, escarole, collards, endive, carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc and a BIT of fruit such as berries, apple, pear and melon.

Basking temperature is important because they need heat to digest food properly.
Hydration is important too....so make sure it has water from a slow dripper...one that drips small drips of water at the rate of one or two drips per second.

Not sure I've covered every simple thing...but this is it. Read it....pay attention to it...do it....and I hope this time you're willing to do what is needed and to spend the money that is needed to keep this one healthy.
 
kinyonga said:
You're already not listening to advice we already gave you....so this is chameleons 101...and your only chance to redeem yourself in my books.

You need a proper cage like exo Terra with the screen lid and vents at the front. It will need to be 2'x2'x2' at least for him as an adult...but one slightly smaller will do for now. You need a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that will provide a temperature in the low 80's in the basking area with a branch that lets him sit close to it but not so close that it will burn him this light should be in a hood. You need a UVB long linear tube light like Repti-sun 5.0 in a reflective hood. You need a dripper and a hand sprayer. You need plants that are non toxic and have been well washed and branches to climb on. The soil in the pots should be covered with rocks about the size of a plum so the chameleon can't eat the soil. I do not recommend using a substrate.

You need a phosphorous-free calcium powder to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon. I use Rep-cal. This provides calcium for his bones and muscles.
You need a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to dust with twice a month. This will provide it with some D3 without overdosing it and letting it produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will not build up and cause health issues like D3 from supplements can as long as the chameleon can move in and out if the light at will.
You need a vitamin powder like Herptivite with a prOformed (beta carotene) source of vitamin A. PrOfromed sources will not build up in the system like prEformed sources can. This means that you will have to decide when or if your chameleon needs any prEformed.

It's important to feed/gutload the insects with a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, escarole, collards, endive, carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc and a BIT of fruit such as berries, apple, pear and melon.

Basking temperature is important because they need heat to digest food properly.
Hydration is important too....so make sure it has water from a slow dripper...one that drips small drips of water at the rate of one or two drips per second.

Not sure I've covered every simple thing...but this is it. Read it....pay attention to it...do it....and I hope this time you're willing to do what is needed and to spend the money that is needed to keep this one healthy.
Click to expand...
okay.
 
kinyonga said:
You're already not listening to advice we already gave you....so this is chameleons 101...and your only chance to redeem yourself in my books.

You need a proper cage like exo Terra with the screen lid and vents at the front. It will need to be 2'x2'x2' at least for him as an adult...but one slightly smaller will do for now. You need a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that will provide a temperature in the low 80's in the basking area with a branch that lets him sit close to it but not so close that it will burn him this light should be in a hood. You need a UVB long linear tube light like Repti-sun 5.0 in a reflective hood. You need a dripper and a hand sprayer. You need plants that are non toxic and have been well washed and branches to climb on. The soil in the pots should be covered with rocks about the size of a plum so the chameleon can't eat the soil. I do not recommend using a substrate.

You need a phosphorous-free calcium powder to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon. I use Rep-cal. This provides calcium for his bones and muscles.
You need a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to dust with twice a month. This will provide it with some D3 without overdosing it and letting it produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will not build up and cause health issues like D3 from supplements can as long as the chameleon can move in and out if the light at will.
You need a vitamin powder like Herptivite with a prOformed (beta carotene) source of vitamin A. PrOfromed sources will not build up in the system like prEformed sources can. This means that you will have to decide when or if your chameleon needs any prEformed.

It's important to feed/gutload the insects with a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, escarole, collards, endive, carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc and a BIT of fruit such as berries, apple, pear and melon.

Basking temperature is important because they need heat to digest food properly.
Hydration is important too....so make sure it has water from a slow dripper...one that drips small drips of water at the rate of one or two drips per second.

Not sure I've covered every simple thing...but this is it. Read it....pay attention to it...do it....and I hope this time you're willing to do what is needed and to spend the money that is needed to keep this one healthy.
Click to expand...
the uvb i have is 26w 5.0 , 60w basking light which is creating 70 degrees in the middle of the cage so im sure the top is hotter. i got the dipper system going. does the uvb need to be the long strip ?
 
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