help from parsons owners

lysinlight87

lysinlight87

New Member
Hi,

I'm researching the possibility of getting a parsons cham, as I do have a large room available. I understand they are difficult to keep and need a lot work so I was wondering if any experienced owners are willing to share their wisdom & help me understand how to care for them? Purchasing a parsons would be a big commitment so I want to make sure it is one that I can make.

Any help would be appreciated :)
 
They are not difficult - if you will get true CB animals (no problem lately in Europe although really bargain they aren't until now. But look, if you calculate dollar per kg may be it is not that bad :) ). If you are able breed panthers in several generation or breed mellers do not worry and try them. They even do not need such big space like is usually written. They are very "static" animals and in principe parsonii do not need such big space as everybody writes (80x80x160 cm. if properly positioned and designed is after my opinion enough even for CB adult big male)
Few points to consider:
1 What is able Panther to do in 1 month parsoni does 3 months. Very, very slow animals. They neeedd tiiimmeee.
2. If parsonii is "running" in cage you have something wrong. Until normal condition they move just- just, step by slow step and mostly do not move at all (just shooting)
3 they are not so heat sensitive like everybody writes, but just WHEN THEY ARE OUTSIDE and have colder nights. Problems are usually warm nights, not days. Safe is go bellow 20°C at nigth. If they are outside (in deep tree shaddow) and it is over 29°C they have "dripping cold water" in cage they are fine, even at 34 °C (more I have never here), but without water they start gaping, this you can not allow. I put 2-3 frozen 2.5 l cola PET bottles on cage (horizontally) with 2 small holes, they drip 5-6 hours, this saves situation.
4. You need cooler period in winter (15°C) they even can stop eating during that time. CB accept winter when it is in fact outside, usually it is no problem, a bit openened windows helps. You need separate reptile cold room (full of mountain chameleons, Abronias, Shinisaurus, Uroplatus, Naultinus etc) :D Ok, babies do not expose such temperatures
5. Water is no problem. I am spraying them with hand 2-3 daily 1-2 minutes. If they drink longer, I spray them until they stop, but normally they do just around molt time if they have correct temperature. If there is warmer as should be they drink much more. I have humidity about 60-70% in room, more they do not need.
6. keep them outside as much as you can. In spring and autumn can help greenhouse but in warmer part of year they need be free in cage in tree shaddow.
7. Housed together? Sometimes it works, sometimes not. This is very difficult to predict. You must be very carefull and have prepared proper cages. If parsonii is not satisfied with cage, it is able rub nose in short time very, very badly, may be difficult to save him at all. They can wound easily feet as well, you need think a lot not offer him possibility to do it.
8. They low fresh air. I have fan blowing on them. (It turns in room but every app 15 second they receive "fresh wind" for few seconds. Humid room with stagnatig air, especially if warmer a bit can cause ilnesses.
9. I use just linear Arcadia T5 in cages in winter (one UVB, another normal) for light, no heart spot. They are perfectly active during day if they have just 18°C, they hunt a move normally. Housed outside they have natural sun.
10. They eat nearly everything (dubias do not like), this is really no problem. Change is life so no just crickets. Flies, roaches, locusts, katydids, caterpillars, larvae .... rarely pinkie.

On contrary, imported animals are difficult, if you try breed them very difficult (I can only cry how many eggs from imported animals I was not able incubate). They have southern hemisphaere biorhytmus and lot of problem connected with that. Not easy "switch them to northern hemisphaere".
 
bifidus said:
They are not difficult - if you will get true CB animals (no problem lately in Europe although really bargain they aren't until now. But look, if you calculate dollar per kg may be it is not that bad :) ). If you are able breed panthers in several generation or breed mellers do not worry and try them. They even do not need such big space like is usually written. They are very "static" animals and in principe parsonii do not need such big space as everybody writes (80x80x160 cm. if properly positioned and designed is after my opinion enough even for CB adult big male)
Few points to consider:
1 What is able Panther to do in 1 month parsoni does 3 months. Very, very slow animals. They neeedd tiiimmeee.
2. If parsonii is "running" in cage you have something wrong. Until normal condition they move just- just, step by slow step and mostly do not move at all (just shooting)
3 they are not so heat sensitive like everybody writes, but just WHEN THEY ARE OUTSIDE and have colder nights. Problems are usually warm nights, not days. Safe is go bellow 20°C at nigth. If they are outside (in deep tree shaddow) and it is over 29°C they have "dripping cold water" in cage they are fine, even at 34 °C (more I have never here), but without water they start gaping, this you can not allow. I put 2-3 frozen 2.5 l cola PET bottles on cage (horizontally) with 2 small holes, they drip 5-6 hours, this saves situation.
4. You need cooler period in winter (15°C) they even can stop eating during that time. CB accept winter when it is in fact outside, usually it is no problem, a bit openened windows helps. You need separate reptile cold room (full of mountain chameleons, Abronias, Shinisaurus, Uroplatus, Naultinus etc) :D Ok, babies do not expose such temperatures
5. Water is no problem. I am spraying them with hand 2-3 daily 1-2 minutes. If they drink longer, I spray them until they stop, but normally they do just around molt time if they have correct temperature. If there is warmer as should be they drink much more. I have humidity about 60-70% in room, more they do not need.
6. keep them outside as much as you can. In spring and autumn can help greenhouse but in warmer part of year they need be free in cage in tree shaddow.
7. Housed together? Sometimes it works, sometimes not. This is very difficult to predict. You must be very carefull and have prepared proper cages. If parsonii is not satisfied with cage, it is able rub nose in short time very, very badly, may be difficult to save him at all. They can wound easily feet as well, you need think a lot not offer him possibility to do it.
8. They low fresh air. I have fan blowing on them. (It turns in room but every app 15 second they receive "fresh wind" for few seconds. Humid room with stagnatig air, especially if warmer a bit can cause ilnesses.
9. I use just linear Arcadia T5 in cages in winter (one UVB, another normal) for light, no heart spot. They are perfectly active during day if they have just 18°C, they hunt a move normally. Housed outside they have natural sun.
10. They eat nearly everything (dubias do not like), this is really no problem. Change is life so no just crickets. Flies, roaches, locusts, katydids, caterpillars, larvae .... rarely pinkie.

On contrary, imported animals are difficult, if you try breed them very difficult (I can only cry how many eggs from imported animals I was not able incubate). They have southern hemisphaere biorhytmus and lot of problem connected with that. Not easy "switch them to northern hemisphaere".
Click to expand...

My experiences are that they are heat sensitive,above 26 a 27 c they begin to stress,eat less and in my opinion even with plenty of water its VERY BAD to keep parsons in hot conditions!
When kept in hot conditions for longer times they developing pseudomonal skin infection.
It looks like smallpox warts and its a real plague,its very difficult to get under control(you can treat with Surolan)but mostly they die after some weeks .
So NEVER keep parsons for longer times in hot conditions:mad:
 
ok thanks. There are always different opinions on husbandry, particularly with lesser-kept species & it's important to hear them all, but let's stay friendly not mad
 
Mine until appr. 28-29°C act normally. Over it happens by me just in hottiest summer months. I have them in deep tree shaddow and I am in windy region, air usually moves.
If there is 29°C and up they seek the "coldest place available". Because I put on cage top bottle with ice with holes from those drips cold water, it is bellow these bottles (I assume real temperature there is few Celsius lower).
It is not optimal for them, I agree, but they come over it without problem if they are outside. If you can keep them bellow 28°C do it, it is preferable. After my opinion is more important have them outside and not move them back and forth every time when temperature lifts. Different populations or even specimens can be "heat resistant" in different grade. I do not believe that in Florida or Italy they can be out during summer, in northern regions they can.

During "inside" part of year I have them always bellow 24°C, most time considerably.
 
I havnt had mine that long but I have a few tips.
1. They have very soft skin so be carful with the UVB, I use a t5 6% without a reflector and that has to penatrate threw two lots of mesh at that to get to the Cham
2. I'm having a few problems with the gums on my parsonii and I've heard of this happening to a few people so keep an eye on that
3.mine has been a pain to get to eat, one thing seems to pull him/her out of it and that is flys so keep a supply of them if you struggle to get it to eat
4. Don't bother it much it takes time for the Cham to trust you, mine is starting to come around now after 6 weeks but still isn't sure on about me, I don't handle him/her at all the only time it's been out is to check the gums
 
Mine don't even bother with flys.:) I'm working my way through the feeders with my guys. They won't eat flys or silkworms. I won't feed them butterworms after feeding them to one of my females and her bad reaction to them. Her skin on her jaw is still discolored from them and it's been three weeks or so.:mad: Praying mantis scare me whenever I feed them. I'm always afraid the Parson's will get hurt by the mantis or get sores in their mouths from puncture wounds from the mantis. They do eat crickets, hornworms, superworms and love Dubias thank god as that is a easy food source.

I think you need to be careful of too much UV also. Mine very rarely bask when outside.

I don't "play" with any of my chameleons. They only get handled when I move them or need to do something like weigh them or inspect their mouths.

They really are gentle giants but do have the Kung fu grip, to the point of drawing blood. They move sooooo slow and not very far. :)


chameleonkev said:
I havnt had mine that long but I have a few tips.
1. They have very soft skin so be carful with the UVB, I use a t5 6% without a reflector and that has to penatrate threw two lots of mesh at that to get to the Cham
2. I'm having a few problems with the gums on my parsonii and I've heard of this happening to a few people so keep an eye on that
3.mine has been a pain to get to eat, one thing seems to pull him/her out of it and that is flys so keep a supply of them if you struggle to get it to eat
4. Don't bother it much it takes time for the Cham to trust you, mine is starting to come around now after 6 weeks but still isn't sure on about me, I don't handle him/her at all the only time it's been out is to check the gums
Click to expand...
 
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