help me please!!

shaboogie

New Member
i have a baby veild cham and i need to kno a bunch of things like number one how do they change colors is it diff lights i need like a red or blue one?at what age should i pick him up hes a boy he got spurs on the back of him?how do yall take them good pictures !!thats all juss need some help and he dosnt drink water that much no more either and only shedding one time since i got him at the end of feb wassup with that but i feed him good !!supers,horns,meals,wax,crickets tryna find something else i like lindasgonebuggie website
 
i have a baby veild cham and i need to kno a bunch of things like number one how do they change colors is it diff lights i need like a red or blue one?at what age should i pick him up hes a boy he got spurs on the back of him?how do yall take them good pictures !!thats all juss need some help and he dosnt drink water that much no more either and only shedding one time since i got him at the end of feb wassup with that but i feed him good !!supers,horns,meals,wax,crickets tryna find something else i like lindasgonebuggie website

They change those colors as adults 8-10 months ull start seeing em earlier than that though. Please fill out a how to ask for help form.. please
 
i have a baby veild cham and i need to kno a bunch of things like number one how do they change colors is it diff lights i need like a red or blue one?

dont bother with those red or blue bulbs you may see at the petstore. a regular incandescent will due just fine. no clf tho cfls give off very little heat.

the color of the light bulbs will not effect the colors he shows.

at what age should i pick him up hes a boy he got spurs on the back of him?

you can pick him up now, just dont handle him regularly. always approach from below and slide your fingers under his chin. other hand should be at the base of his tail in case he trys to back off. and be slow.

how do yall take them good pictures !!thats all juss need some help and he dosnt drink water that much no more either and only shedding one time since i got him at the end of feb wassup with that

the fact that hes not drinking is a little concerning and i agree with the other members that you should fill out the "how to ask for help" form

but i feed him good !!supers,horns,meals,wax,crickets tryna find something else i like lindasgonebuggie website

good gob on the variety, id use the waxworms very sparingly. in fact theres a certain member that will bite your face off if he finds out youre using waxworms :p jk.

yeah but seriously fill out that form. we can give you tips on what to change
 
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You said..."how do they change colors is it diff lights"...
http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/content/latest-questions/question/2634/

Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
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