Ok!
I’m going to start this with your cutie developing her big girl colors, which signal her first receptive period. She’ll start looking super pretty and starting to show some teal and yellow/orange colors and patterns. Each lady is different and while some show primarily colors, some will show primarily patterns. I had one of each. (Pardon the fake plants - I was new and still learning)
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Along with this, they’ll also become very restless and almost endlessly roam up, down and all around their enclosure in their futile hunt for a boy. Some girls might have a decrease in appetite. This can last for a couple to few weeks. This is the time that you should have your lay bin prepared and in place. Once it ends, she’ll gradually start gaining weight and looking plump and maybe even show a lump or two above her back leg. Anywhere from about 30 or so days from the end of the receptive period, she may be ready to lay eggs. Her colors usually darken, and again, each girl is different. My one girl, only showed darker spots while the other darkens so that her patterns blur together.
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Her appetite and activity levels may decrease as her eggs take up space in her belly. I like to have my light sheet ready and already partially attached to the enclosure, so that when it’s time, I can just pull and secure the one end quickly and quietly. Before you know it, one morning she won’t be in her usual basking spot and you’ll find her starting to dig in her bin. If she chooses somewhere else, like a plant pot, that’s fine - it’s her choice, not ours. Cover just the lower half of the enclosure so that she can’t see anyone. If she does see anyone watching her, she may stop digging and risks for becoming eggbound increase. I make little peek holes in my cover sheet, so I can peek and monitor without her seeing me. Some use cameras. Don’t worry about feeding her. If you don’t have an automatic misting system, you can set up a dripper (just not above the bin) or even just put some ice cubes on the screen top.
She may dig a few spots until she likes one. She’ll dig down to the bottom and it’s usually against a side. Then she’ll turn around and lay her eggs. When done, she’ll carefully cover all the holes she made and when satisfied, will return to her usual basking spot, looking much thinner and very dirty. The whole process usually takes a couple of days and she may sleep in her tunnel. Not all do that though. Once she’s done, you’ll want to feed and hydrate her very well for the next 2-3 days. Hornworms and silkworms are great feeders at this time. At some point you’ll want to remove the eggs and count them. Hopefully there’s less than 30. Then you are going to start her on the regimen that will hopefully reduce her egg production. You’ll feed her 3-4 appropriately sized feeders, 3 days a week (plus treats). Make sure to keep her basking temp no higher than 80. It may take a cycle or two to start working. The goal is to reduce her egg production so that she is laying small clutches of 20 or less eggs, and not laying 3-4 times a year. What my girls did, was both had several receptive periods, and even gained weight and became plump, but they never laid any eggs. One stopped all laying for three years (until she passed). The other was laying once a year, but I believe it was her sneaking peeks at my male that triggered her. He passed away last year and she skipped her ‘usual’ laying. I have a new male that unfortunately I couldn’t prevent her from seeing recently, so it’ll be interesting if she lays this year. Also of note, is that either the receptive periods stopped completely or they weakened so much that I didn’t see any changes. My girl who went three years did eventually lose most of her colors over time, but that too may have been from her being sick. My other girl is still gorgeous with her dark patterns.
The lay bin - it’s pretty easy to make a good lay bin. I found that a larger bin is preferred...at least 12x12” wide and long. Deep is good too. This is what my girls like.
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Drill some tiny holes in the bottom so excess water can drain. Fill to about 5-6” deep with washed play sand. Provide a couple of stable ways in/out. When they are close to laying, you need to make sure that all of the sand is moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. I try to hide the bin in the back of the enclosure and behind plant cover so they feel more private and safe. However, I have found that there is a preferred poo spot and avoiding that is best. When doing your daily spot checks, peek in the bin for poo and remove it.
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Signs of a problem - Generally, as long as your husbandry is as perfect as possible, the risks of complications or problems laying eggs is greatly reduced. Always be alert though. If she is staying low in the enclosure/not basking and/or lethargic, dropping eggs randomly, any blood from anywhere, anything sticking out from vent, not eating/drinking, eyes closed during the day or anything that you just feel isn’t right…don’t delay in getting veterinary care. Another potential problem is she is trying digging in various spots, but not settling on one. This was how I learned just how fussy they can be about having a lay bin that meets their standards. My girl was in a bioactive enclosure - the whole floor was a giant lay bin! She spent a week digging everywhere (even the faux wall) and not liking anywhere. I even tried a smaller and shallow bin of sand. Desperate, I put her old lay bin in (the one in the pic) and she got down to business.
Do ask if you’ve got any questions.
We haven’t even started on the egg laying process. I don’t want to overwhelm you right now though. Make the needed changes and get your pretty girl all set up properly first. Once that is all done, then let us know that you’re ready and we’ll go over all of the egg stuff.
