HELP pls (not emergency)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - YBBB Ambilobe Panther Cham, 6 Months, In my care 3 months
  • Handling - Rarely, maybe once every two weeks (10 mins)
  • Feeding - Either (6)super worms, (9) medium crickets or (7) dubia (depends on what they have). Gutload with
  • Supplements - zoomed repti calcium without d3 (every other day). Zoo med reptivite with d3 (every other Friday)
  • Watering - Mist’R lizard spray bottle. Soak the plants make sure dripping, and I wait to make sure he notices the drip
  • Fecal Description - Brown and long with white urate (orange was old one in picture) hasn’t been tested for parasites
  • History - He’s not a great eater or food motivated. Not sure if he’s scared of the tongs or what.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - ReptiBreeze XL 2x2x4
  • Lighting - Heat (mini halogen dome 100W mini halogen) - UVB ( Zilla slimline tropical 25 uvb t8 florescent fixture (no plastic shield) - plant light (6500k light)
  • Temperature - basking (92°) -middle (80°) -lower (75°). Night temp (65°). I use a zoo med thermometer digital to basking spot
  • Humidity - Hygrometer is on the way, but humidifier is on for a good amount of time each day.
  • Plants - 2 pothos, 1croton, 1 pitcher plant, 1 bromeliad, 1 dragon plant
  • Placement - Cage is located in my room, not vents or heater nearby, close to TV. On the floor, nothing big enough to set on. Usually at eye level because I’m on my bed.
  • Location - Denver, Colorado
Current Problem - Just the info
 

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Hi, there! He is gorgeous, but I don’t see enough plants and vines (and branches- just not as much needed) in his cage. Could you possibly fill out the husbandry form on here so we can make sure everything else you’re doing is in tip-top shape, please?
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - YBBB Ambilobe Panther Cham, 6 Months, In my care 3 months
  • Handling - Rarely, maybe once every two weeks (10 mins)
  • Feeding - Either (6)super worms, (9) medium crickets or (7) dubia (depends on what they have). Gutload with
  • Supplements - zoomed repti calcium without d3 (every other day). Zoo med reptivite with d3 (every other Friday)
  • Watering - Mist’R lizard spray bottle. Soak the plants make sure dripping, and I wait to make sure he notices the drip
  • Fecal Description - Brown and long with white urate (orange was old one in picture) hasn’t been tested for parasites
  • History - He’s not a great eater or food motivated. Not sure if he’s scared of the tongs or what.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - ReptiBreeze XL 2x2x4
  • Lighting - Heat (mini halogen dome 100W mini halogen) - UVB ( Zilla slimline tropical 25 uvb t8 florescent fixture (no plastic shield) - plant light (6500k light)
  • Temperature - basking (92°) -middle (80°) -lower (75°). Night temp (65°). I use a zoo med thermometer digital to basking spot
  • Humidity - Hygrometer is on the way, but humidifier is on for a good amount of time each day.
  • Plants - 2 pothos, 1croton, 1 pitcher plant, 1 bromeliad, 1 dragon plant
  • Placement - Cage is located in my room, not vents or heater nearby, close to TV. On the floor, nothing big enough to set on. Usually at eye level because I’m on my bed.
  • Location - Denver, Colorado
Current Problem - Just the info
 

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  • Chameleon Info:
    • Your Chameleon - YBBB Ambilobe Panther Cham, 6 Months, In my care 3 months
    • Handling - Rarely, maybe once every two weeks (10 mins)
    • Feeding - Either (6)super worms, (9) medium crickets or (7) dubia (depends on what they have). Gutload with I think that’s too much usually it’s only 3-5 items every other day your chameleon may have or develop obesity I need pictures!
    • Supplements - zoomed repti calcium without d3 (every other day). Zoo med reptivite with d3 (every other Friday) I don’t know how many times I’ve linked these today but you need calcium without d3 phosphorus free just search it up and reptivite only do it once every two weeks
    • Watering - Mist’R lizard spray bottle. Soak the plants make sure dripping, and I wait to make sure he notices the drip When you mist usually it’s once before or right after lights turn on for 2-4 minutes and again before lights turn off for 2-4 minutes. Depending on how humid it is where you live you can mist more or buy a humidifier there are tons of threads on here that provide more information about humidifiers. Make sure that when you mist again everything is completely dry
    • Fecal Description - Brown and long with white urate (orange was old one in picture) hasn’t been tested for parasites Ok as long as he is hydrated now but I recommend getting one done at the vet
    • History - He’s not a great eater or food motivated. Not sure if he’s scared of the tongs or what. Try cup feeding. Do you only tong feed it can be dangerous if not done right? Plants - 2 pothos, 1croton, 1 pitcher plant, 1 bromeliad, 1 dragon plant Placement - Cage is located in my room, not vents or heater nearby, close to TV. On the floor, nothing big enough to set on. Usually at eye level because I’m on my bed. Is there anyway you can move him away from the tv? Location - Denver, Colorado
      • Current Problem - Just the info
    Cage Info:
    Cage Type - ReptiBreeze XL 2x2x4 Humidity - Hygrometer is on the way, but humidifier is on for a good amount of time each day. Make sure you’re using the humidifier right and the right one.
    Lighting - Heat (mini halogen dome 100W mini halogen) - UVB ( Zilla slimline tropical 25 uvb t8 florescent fixture (no plastic shield) - plant light (6500k light) You need a incandescent house bulb I don’t think the one you have is correct, pictures? Also you need an Arcadia t5ho 6% or a Zoo med t5ho 5.0 linear uvb at least 24” https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html Temperature - basking (92°) -middle (80°) -lower (75°). Night temp (65°). I use a zoo med thermometer digital to basking spot Way too hot 80 max

I don’t know what happened with this but I put my answers 😂 I’ll let someone else tell me if I missed something
 
I’ll put my feedback and any questions in red, along with posting helpful links and images at the end:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - YBBB Ambilobe Panther Cham, 6 Months, In my care 3 months
  • Handling - Rarely, maybe once every two weeks (10 mins)
  • Feeding - Either (6)super worms, (9) medium crickets or (7) dubia (depends on what they have). Gutload with What do you gutload with and how? Feed him as much as he’ll eat at his current age. How often do you feed the superworms? They are great for variety and as treats, just not as staples. Try out more types of feeders, including different roach species, for more variety. Variety is best for gutload and feeders! Also, are the edges smooth or sharp on your feeder cup?
  • Supplements - zoomed repti calcium without d3 (every other day). Zoo med reptivite with d3 (every other Friday) I’d try to do the calcium without D3 every feeding (or mostly every feeding), expect for when using the Reptivite
  • Watering - Mist’R lizard spray bottle. Soak the plants make sure dripping, and I wait to make sure he notices the drip How long is each misting session? They should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes long for each time for during the day. Try to only mist in the morning and late afternoon/night for his daytime mistings when his cage is cooler, if his humidity allow it.
  • Fecal Description - Brown and long with white urate (orange was old one in picture) hasn’t been tested for parasites Get at least his fecals checked for parasites, if not bloodwork and x-rays as well, from an experienced chameleon vet. Make sure drop off at least two more fresh fecal samples after that to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - He’s not a great eater or food motivated. Not sure if he’s scared of the tongs or what. It could be parasites, just how he is, or something else. Have you tried to put feeders on a branch near him or released them in the cage for him to hunt down? He could also be too shy to eat because he has barely any foliage and no privacy.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - ReptiBreeze XL 2x2x4 You need tons more branches, vine, and plants (especially foliage). I’ve posted two helpful cage set-up links below.
  • Lighting - Heat (mini halogen dome 100W mini halogen) - UVB ( Zilla slimline tropical 25 uvb t8 florescent fixture (no plastic shield) - plant light (6500k light) Get a T8 Zoo Med 10.0 of the correct length for his fixture. His linear UVB fixture is a little short, it should be either 2’ (laid straight across the middle) or 3’ (laid diagonally across the middle). If/when when you get a new linear fixture of the correct length, try to get a T5 High Output fixture instead (with either a T5 HO Zoo Med 5.0 or Arcadia 6% UVB bulb of the matching length). How far away is the UVB bulb from his basking branch? Definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, tell you if a UVB bulb is defective, and let you know wen the bulb needs to be replaced (when the readings are cut in half). If you don’t get one, replace Zoo Med bulbs every 6 months and Arcadia bulbs once a year. What is his lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - basking (92°) -middle (80°) -lower (75°). Night temp (65°). I use a zoo med thermometer digital to basking spot Basking temp is too high, it should be a max of 85*F (or lower if he’s hot, if he’s cold you can raise it to 86-87*F max). Most keepers‘ basking temps range anywhere from 80-85*F. Does the thermometer have a probe? If so, it should be placed where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch. If not, buy one and place it there.
  • Humidity - Hygrometer is on the way, but humidifier is on for a good amount of time each day. Is the humidifier a whole room one or a cage one with tubing? Is the hygrometer you ordered digital?
  • Plants - 2 pothos, 1croton, 1 pitcher plant, 1 bromeliad, 1 dragon plant Put the pothos higher up so their vines trail down once they grow out. An umbrella plant (or another sturdy tree with lots of foliage) will do wonders! I’ve posted two chameleon-safe plant lists below. Make sure to properly clean off all plants beforehand and to cover all soil in the pots with rocks too big for him to eat
  • Placement - Cage is located in my room, not vents or heater nearby, close to TV. On the floor, nothing big enough to set on. Usually at eye level because I’m on my bed. Do you blast the TV volume? Is his cage covered to not let light in if you watch TV after his lights go out? Getting a stand will be best, as chameleons feel safer higher up (along with more foliage), especially with the lack of privacy in his cage.
  • Location - Denver, Colorado

Here are the helpful links and images (make sure to read through all of the modules in The Chameleon Academy if you haven’t already, along with listening to as many podcast episodes as possible, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
 
I’ll put my feedback and any questions in red, along with posting helpful links and images at the end:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - YBBB Ambilobe Panther Cham, 6 Months, In my care 3 months
  • Handling - Rarely, maybe once every two weeks (10 mins)
  • Feeding - Either (6)super worms, (9) medium crickets or (7) dubia (depends on what they have). Gutload with What do you gutload with and how? Feed him as much as he’ll eat at his current age. How often do you feed the superworms? They are great for variety and as treats, just not as staples. Try out more types of feeders, including different roach species, for more variety. Variety is best for gutload and feeders! Also, are the edges smooth or sharp on your feeder cup?
  • Supplements - zoomed repti calcium without d3 (every other day). Zoo med reptivite with d3 (every other Friday) I’d try to do the calcium without D3 every feeding (or mostly every feeding), expect for when using the Reptivite
  • Watering - Mist’R lizard spray bottle. Soak the plants make sure dripping, and I wait to make sure he notices the drip How long is each misting session? They should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes long for each time for during the day. Try to only mist in the morning and late afternoon/night for his daytime mistings when his cage is cooler, if his humidity allow it.
  • Fecal Description - Brown and long with white urate (orange was old one in picture) hasn’t been tested for parasites Get at least his fecals checked for parasites, if not bloodwork and x-rays as well, from an experienced chameleon vet. Make sure drop off at least two more fresh fecal samples after that to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - He’s not a great eater or food motivated. Not sure if he’s scared of the tongs or what. It could be parasites, just how he is, or something else. Have you tried to put feeders on a branch near him or released them in the cage for him to hunt down? He could also be too shy to eat because he has barely any foliage and no privacy.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - ReptiBreeze XL 2x2x4 You need tons more branches, vine, and plants (especially foliage). I’ve posted two helpful cage set-up links below.
  • Lighting - Heat (mini halogen dome 100W mini halogen) - UVB ( Zilla slimline tropical 25 uvb t8 florescent fixture (no plastic shield) - plant light (6500k light) Get a T8 Zoo Med 10.0 of the correct length for his fixture. His linear UVB fixture is a little short, it should be either 2’ (laid straight across the middle) or 3’ (laid diagonally across the middle). If/when when you get a new linear fixture of the correct length, try to get a T5 High Output fixture instead (with either a T5 HO Zoo Med 5.0 or Arcadia 6% UVB bulb of the matching length). How far away is the UVB bulb from his basking branch? Definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, tell you if a UVB bulb is defective, and let you know wen the bulb needs to be replaced (when the readings are cut in half). If you don’t get one, replace Zoo Med bulbs every 6 months and Arcadia bulbs once a year. What is his lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - basking (92°) -middle (80°) -lower (75°). Night temp (65°). I use a zoo med thermometer digital to basking spot Basking temp is too high, it should be a max of 85*F (or lower if he’s hot, if he’s cold you can raise it to 86-87*F max). Most keepers‘ basking temps range anywhere from 80-85*F. Does the thermometer have a probe? If so, it should be placed where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch. If not, buy one and place it there.
  • Humidity - Hygrometer is on the way, but humidifier is on for a good amount of time each day. Is the humidifier a whole room one or a cage one with tubing? Is the hygrometer you ordered digital?
  • Plants - 2 pothos, 1croton, 1 pitcher plant, 1 bromeliad, 1 dragon plant Put the pothos higher up so their vines trail down once they grow out. An umbrella plant (or another sturdy tree with lots of foliage) will do wonders! I’ve posted two chameleon-safe plant lists below. Make sure to properly clean off all plants beforehand and to cover all soil in the pots with rocks too big for him to eat
  • Placement - Cage is located in my room, not vents or heater nearby, close to TV. On the floor, nothing big enough to set on. Usually at eye level because I’m on my bed. Do you blast the TV volume? Is his cage covered to not let light in if you watch TV after his lights go out? Getting a stand will be best, as chameleons feel safer higher up (along with more foliage), especially with the lack of privacy in his cage.
  • Location - Denver, Colorado

Here are the helpful links and images (make sure to read through all of the modules in The Chameleon Academy if you haven’t already, along with listening to as many podcast episodes as possible, as they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
Thanks for the input, it’s a brand new cage I’m workin on so yeah it’s still got some ways to go. What do you think of this uvb fixture then.
 

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Will this be a regular occurrence or just a one time thing? Do you have a suitable enclosure for him in the place you have to return to? A cham can go for four days without food. The biggest concern is hydration. Do you have an automatic mister?
It’s not regular I won’t be moving back down again till may
 
Sweet yeah I’ll hop on that, then what do you think of a rubber tree? I have a decent sized one at home for foliage. That’s good!
 
Thanks for the input, it’s a brand new cage I’m workin on so yeah it’s still got some ways to go. What do you think of this uvb fixture then.
It appears to be another of the same fixture sold under many brand names—all made in the same factory in China.
https://www.docdroid.net/rzaxveu/an-issue-with-sunblaster-t5-ho-reflectors-pdf#page=7
  • Arcadia Pro T5
  • Biodude T5HO
  • Carolina Custom Cages T5HO
  • Hydrofarm "Jumpstart"
  • Sunblaster T5HO Nanotech
  • Vivarium T5
  • Others
 
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