HELP...why is my Veiled basking under the UV? and not eating?

[PoshPenny]

Your basking spot is way too high, above 90 is not good for a female veiled especially if you're hoping to avoid eggs. The basking spot should be 80-82 degrees, if the room is 85 then she is too hot. My female veiled will avoid her basking spot when shedding. Iv read licking or eating dirt can indicate a deficiency in her diet. But it's not uncommon. However it can't hurt to switch up your gut loading and really get particular about what you're giving her. Give the feeders a huge variety of veggies and fruits to cover all types of vitamins. Get a good dry gut load too. I'm OCD over my veiled Cham and follow jannb blog on them. Look her up. Listen to her, she will help you raise a healthy female and hopefully avoid eggs all together through low basking temps and correct diet.

Chams thermoregulate, so she is going to her UVB which gives off a little warmth. Also no lights at night, get a ceramic heat bulb, they give off zero light if your night temps are falling under 64 degrees. They need the drop in temp for proper metabolism. You'll have one moody Cham if you keep her up all night with a light. Even a little light can be seen through the skin on their eyes.

Yellow urates mean she is dehydrated. They should be a milky all white color. See the sticky in the health section on poop by one of the forum vets. It's called Poop 101.

 

[fluxlizard]

Breeding age near 4 months? Shes got at least another 2-4 months till becoming receptive don't you think?

Just FWIW-

When these guys were new to the pet trade (early 90s), when I started breeding them, they were advertised as ready to breed sometimes by as early as 3-4 months. It was actually one of their selling points- fairly expensive easy to care and could reach their second generation in less than a year including incubation time, plus they can produce hundreds of babies in a year- we've come a long way as far as health and quality of life goes since that early thinking. But if they are kept warm and fed all they want to eat, they can indeed grow to sexual maturity and be receptive for breeding at less than 4 months of age.

So developing eggs could be a factor here.

 

[Ninkylou]

I do agree however I live in New Hampshire and especially during the up coming winter months I would hate for her to get cold, I will definitely not use one during summer

They should get cool at night, into the low 60's is fine, high 50's even. If you have to have something at night use a ceramic emitter, not a red or night light. They should have complete darkness to sleep at night. If you have heat on in the room they are in it is probably warm enough. Shut the night light off and check the temps a few hours later and first thing in the morning.

 

[fluxlizard]

I do agree however I live in New Hampshire and especially during the up coming winter months I would hate for her to get cold, I will definitely not use one during summer

I allow mine in the spring and fall to go down to near 40. In the winter indoors near 50. In the wild they can survive light frosts- but probably do so by crawling between rocks and into holes.

A night drop in temp is good. It slows their metabolism for a deeper rest.