Help!

Yea I would be to mine poo pretty much once a day if u ever fear he is impacted a little mineral oil one the tip of his nose will do the trick... was the poo about 2/3brown 1/3 white ?
 
Replife said:
Yea I would be to mine poo pretty much once a day if u ever fear he is impacted a little mineral oil one the tip of his nose will do the trick... was the poo about 2/3brown 1/3 white ?
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Yep and tiny and he was not shy lol my other one is more private about it
 
Did anyone tell you the correct type of gecko? I am pretty sure he is a young leachie gecko. Though I am not sure of the locale at all as there are about 3 that I know of. Leachies can be very aggressive if not handled correctly and continously socialized. If he is a leachie I am pretty sure he will grow to be at least 1 foot long. Whether it's a she or a he, I don't know. It's recommended for these guys to gets a more vertical glass terrarium that is close to the size of 40 gallons once he is full grown. At the moment he only should have a 20 gallon high or something close to it. He will easily eat crested gecko diet food made by repashy and should be fed crickets at least once a week for enrichment as well. He technically doesn't need lighting as they can happily be kept at room Temps and 5.0 or 2.0 uvb lights can be used to simulate night and day. They are usually nocturnal.
 
It's late and I feel the need to lay in bed with my feet up. Thank you so very much you're really sweet for helping me so much
 
Andee said:
Did anyone tell you the correct type of gecko? I am pretty sure he is a young leachie gecko. Though I am not sure of the locale at all as there are about 3 that I know of. Leachies can be very aggressive if not handled correctly and continously socialized. If he is a leachie I am pretty sure he will grow to be at least 1 foot long. Whether it's a she or a he, I don't know. It's recommended for these guys to gets a more vertical glass terrarium that is close to the size of 40 gallons once he is full grown. At the moment he only should have a 20 gallon high or something close to it. He will easily eat crested gecko diet food made by repashy and should be fed crickets at least once a week for enrichment as well. He technically doesn't need lighting as they can happily be kept at room Temps and 5.0 or 2.0 uvb lights can be used to simulate night and day. They are usually nocturnal.
Click to expand...
Andee said:
Did anyone tell you the correct type of gecko? I am pretty sure he is a young leachie gecko. Though I am not sure of the locale at all as there are about 3 that I know of. Leachies can be very aggressive if not handled correctly and continously socialized. If he is a leachie I am pretty sure he will grow to be at least 1 foot long. Whether it's a she or a he, I don't know. It's recommended for these guys to gets a more vertical glass terrarium that is close to the size of 40 gallons once he is full grown. At the moment he only should have a 20 gallon high or something close to it. He will easily eat crested gecko diet food made by repashy and should be fed crickets at least once a week for enrichment as well. He technically doesn't need lighting as they can happily be kept at room Temps and 5.0 or 2.0 uvb lights can be used to simulate night and day. They are usually nocturnal.[/Q
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It's either a leachie or a very poorly cared for golden gecko. Which if he was cared for correctly he would be a beautiful bright gold and cream. If he is a golden gecko. Once again no need for heat, just a uvb, feed him day gecko food made by repashy instead and keep him in a tank at least 20 gallons. If he is a golden he will most likely never be handlable once he's healthy. He should enjoy crickets once a week too. And he will be more active during the day.
 
When I touch him he feels so cold tho.
Andee said:
Did anyone tell you the correct type of gecko? I am pretty sure he is a young leachie gecko. Though I am not sure of the locale at all as there are about 3 that I know of. Leachies can be very aggressive if not handled correctly and continously socialized. If he is a leachie I am pretty sure he will grow to be at least 1 foot long. Whether it's a she or a he, I don't know. It's recommended for these guys to gets a more vertical glass terrarium that is close to the size of 40 gallons once he is full grown. At the moment he only should have a 20 gallon high or something close to it. He will easily eat crested gecko diet food made by repashy and should be fed crickets at least once a week for enrichment as well. He technically doesn't need lighting as they can happily be kept at room Temps and 5.0 or 2.0 uvb lights can be used to simulate night and day. They are usually nocturnal.
Click to expand...
 
Andee said:
It's either a leachie or a very poorly cared for golden gecko. Which if he was cared for correctly he would be a beautiful bright gold and cream. If he is a golden gecko. Once again no need for heat, just a uvb, feed him day gecko food made by repashy instead and keep him in a tank at least 20 gallons. If he is a golden he will most likely never be handlable once he's healthy. He should enjoy crickets once a week too. And he will be more active during the day.
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Yeah,the little girl I got him from had no idea how to take care of him and while I don't either I'm trying to learn so he can be happy and healthy.
 
Now that I looked up golden geckos I am almost positive that is what he is, he has the body type and very muted colors of an unhappy golden gecko. They do best with live vivariums but until then I would get him a low wattage ceramic heat emitter because unlike most nocturnal geckos (which is what I am used to dealing with) need a normal heat range of 75 to 70. A 60 watt blue night bulb or ceramic heat emitter should be fine. I would use a uvb light to signify day time. He should be able to come back as long as he has no serious mbd damage or damage to his kidneys. He needs to misted at least twice a day. They usually don't drink from bowls unless desperate and need higher humidity like chameleons.
 
Andee said:
Now that I looked up golden geckos I am almost positive that is what he is, he has the body type and very muted colors of an unhappy golden gecko. They do best with live vivariums but until then I would get him a low wattage ceramic heat emitter because unlike most nocturnal geckos (which is what I am used to dealing with) need a normal heat range of 75 to 70. A 60 watt blue night bulb or ceramic heat emitter should be fine. I would use a uvb light to signify day time. He should be able to come back as long as he has no serious mbd damage or damage to his kidneys. He needs to misted at least twice a day. They usually don't drink from bowls unless desperate and need higher humidity like chameleons.
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His color has been getting better the past day or two he was darker.
 
If you want to help perk him up, try mixing some pureed pears or really ripe raspberries with like a tablespoon of organic honey. They love honey and it helps fight diseases and gives them a boost of energy because of the natural sugar content. Its my go to food for my frugivorious reptiles when they have gotten sick and need a little pep to just keep going. However don't feed too much honey on a regular basis, it is fattening.
 
Oh i definitely don't blame you for his color, don't worry, I honestly believe you are his saving grace and will bring him back. He just needs to get going and with your help he will do great ^^ I totally believe it was the fault of the previous owner.... I mean anyone who does any research about geckos knows not to put padded toed geckos on sand. Especially if they are directly feeding on the sand. That's just asking for impaction.
 
Andee said:
Now that I looked up golden geckos I am almost positive that is what he is, he has the body type and very muted colors of an unhappy golden gecko. They do best with live vivariums but until then I would get him a low wattage ceramic heat emitter because unlike most nocturnal geckos (which is what I am used to dealing with) need a normal heat range of 75 to 70. A 60 watt blue night bulb or ceramic heat emitter should be fine. I would use a uvb light to signify day time. He should be able to come back as long as he has no serious mbd damage or damage to his kidneys. He needs to misted at least twice a day. They usually don't drink from bowls unless desperate and need higher humidity like chameleons.
Click to expand...
Andee said:
Oh i definitely don't blame you for his color, don't worry, I honestly believe you are his saving grace and will bring him back. He just needs to get going and with your help he will do great ^^ I totally believe it was the fault of the previous owner.... I mean anyone who does any research about geckos knows not to put padded toed geckos on sand. Especially if they are directly feeding on the sand. That's just asking for impaction.
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There is a forum I am apart of made to help people with every species of gecko. Do you want the address? I can pm you?

Edit: he's definitely looking more what I would expect from a golden gecko. Keep going.
 
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