Hope this helps! ---> Glass Cages (blog type post)

If you get problems with too much water even if you have a layer of seramis or similar in your enclosure and living plants, you spray too much !

Hm, no seramis. Some here have said that a substrate is bad because it can harbor bacteria. I've never heard of seramis. I just have a plain plastic bottom panel in a screen cage. He has two plants now, in terracotta pots. He gets drips for 20 min or so, twice a day, and misted 2-5 times, depending on if he is inside or out, and the heat.

I've been giving him a little extra water lately, because he's taking baytril for a respiratory infection. That's when I started having the puddle problem. I'm now trying to offer him water directly from a spray bottle, since I don't get his cage as wet that way. He's becoming a little spoiled though.
 
Seramis plus soil plus microorganisms = perfect way to avoid problems with infections. The small insects from forest soil recycle the excrements from your chameleon. When you have a dense planted enclosure, the sheets of the plants "save" the water for some time, so that you aren't forced to let the dripper work for so long. If you have pardalis I would recommend to spray one time at the morning for a minute and then let the dripper work for 10 mins in the afternoon
 
I love the Protean terrariums and will not hesitate to purchase them when I can afford them.
 
In regards to the senegals page, that is just something quick I pulled up for referenceto size. Come on guys realy, you must al think I'm a very careless keeper. This was supposed tone a basic post of things to consider with glass terrariums, and you all are biting at the heels like chuauas. What ever gass cages you guys prefer that's fine by me, but by keeping other reptiles in glass cages I posted what i've experienced, give or take, use it with your knowledge and use it to base you're setup on.
 
Seramis plus soil plus microorganisms = perfect way to avoid problems with infections. The small insects from forest soil recycle the excrements from your chameleon. When you have a dense planted enclosure, the sheets of the plants "save" the water for some time, so that you aren't forced to let the dripper work for so long. If you have pardalis I would recommend to spray one time at the morning for a minute and then let the dripper work for 10 mins in the afternoon

But isn't there a concern that the chameleon could eat the small pieces? My little guy was just climbing out of his cage outside and shot his tongue at a piece of dirt on the table. I was able to get it out of his mouth. I imagine eating a little clay pebble would be a pretty serious situation.
 
But isn't there a concern that the chameleon could eat the small pieces? My little guy was just climbing out of his cage outside and shot his tongue at a piece of dirt on the table. I was able to get it out of his mouth. I imagine eating a little clay pebble would be a pretty serious situation.

If the soil is "stable" and dense it will just shoot the prey not the soil itself. I have kept over 20 species this way and not a single specimen died because of soil.
 
In regards to the senegals page, that is just something quick I pulled up for referenceto size. Come on guys realy, you must al think I'm a very careless keeper. This was supposed tone a basic post of things to consider with glass terrariums, and you all are biting at the heels like chuauas. What ever gass cages you guys prefer that's fine by me, but by keeping other reptiles in glass cages I posted what i've experienced, give or take, use it with your knowledge and use it to base you're setup on.

PedroandAshleys link provides plenty of pros, cons and ways to successfully keep chameleons in terrariums.

Just because some chameleon species are small does not mean they will be "comfortable" in smaller cages. Kinyongia multituberculata is a medium size chameleon, however a very very active one that requires enough room to roam a decent size space. In my experience if the adequate space is not enough they will scratch and rub at the sides to get out. Even the smaller species such as K. tenuis need enough room to roam in or they will not do well. Although, other species like trioceros bitaneatus that are like a statue can be housed in somewhat smaller cages but not too small. Point being is that just because a chameleon is smaller does not mean it can deal with a small cage.
 
Who the hell keeps Ch.namaquensis :confused:;):D
Well said Jared !

i would love one of these guys, but in reality, i dont think anybody keeps them, can get them, and those who have had them, have failed miserably at keeping them. ive read they are very hard to keep somewhere on these forums
 
VeiledOwner

You may have meant well but this thread is full of bad information. Have you ever kept chameleons in Glass Terrariums? Rather than making things up and posting incorrect and poorly researched information about something you don't know anything about, why don't you just post links to information from people who have actually kept multiple chameleons in these enclosures? As someone who has tried very hard to make sure the correct information on keeping chameleons in glass terrariums is available, its very irritating to find someone making such a poorly researched thread with such bad advice. Trioceros sternfeldi and pairs of Rhampholeon and Brookesia in 12"x12"x18" glass terrariums and Chamaeleo senegalensis in an 18"x18"x18"? You're kidding right? Here are a few links you can send people to in the future on the topic:

http://www.chameleonnews.com/10JulAndersonGlass.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/everyone-who-knows-you-cant-keep-chameleons-glass-31937/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/screen-viv-vs-glass-viv-43557/

Chris
 
This is a copy of the sizes offered by Protean, what size would you senior members recommend for a Panther?

Ch 1 – 16″ x 16″ x 24″ – $95
Ch 2 – 16″ x 16″ x 30″ – $105
Ch 3 – 18″ x 18″ x 24″ – $115
Ch 4 – 18″ x 18″ x 30″ – $125
Ch 5 – 18″ x 18″ x 36″ – $135
Ch 6 – 24″ x 24″ x 36″ – $190
Ch 7 – 24″ x 24″ x 48″ – $250
Ch 8 – 30″ x 24″ x 48″ – $325
Ch 9 – 30″ x 24″ x 60″ – $350
Ch 10 – 36″ x 24″ x 48″ – $350
Ch 11 – 36″ x 24″ x 60″ – $400
 
Ch 7 – 24″Wx 24″H x 48″T – $250
that would do
but the bigger the better.
I would espect this to be true in glass cage especially :)
 

Chris, I just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful info. I have been reading up on the forum, and checking sources as I try to figure out how to keep my lil guy healthy and happy. When I read anything questionable, get conflicting opinion, or can only find personal experience, I always go to your e-zine.
 
Chris and I, as well as a few other chameleon breeders on here, are currently discussing what amount of ventilation would work best. Clearly, it will include a lower door vent in addition to 1/2 top venting giving a chimney effect where heat rises and draws new fresh air through from the front of the terrarium. It saddens me to see so many people on here with limited views on what does and doesn't work as if this is set in stone. I beg to differ by the way I have seen chameleon breeders in Europe and Hong Kong house their chameleons in glass terrariums with great breeding success. Using properly set up glass terrariums you will have much less work to do in terms of misting and humidity control.
 
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