How do you set up a live plant for a veiled chameleon?

And washing the plants leaves and stuff and do you think i need to wash the roots of the plant because say the old soil (the soil that was all ready in there when i got it form the garden center) was stuck on to the plant, and then when i re potted it some of the old soil got into the new soil or does that matter or not?
 
If you are covering the soil so that the chameleon can't get to it, there isn't much you can't use. Organic is fine, but most potting mixes will be organic, without the added buzz word that means nothing, in terms of plant health or safety to a chameleon. Organic soil is not like organic foods, which make good sesne. When you use the term organic in reference to soil, it's just to make people feel good, but has no real meaning.
Peat can become acidic over time, as do all potting mixes. Most are stabilized for a time with limestone or other buffers. That may be why it was advised not to use it with the stick insect eggs, as straight peat is acidic.
 
So get the plant then get the organic potting soil then i just repot the plant then im ok?. Also what is the best % of perlite in my organic potting soil?
 
Yes. %of perlite depends on the level of moisture. For example, if the plant is placed under a dripper or mist system nozzles and is going to stay very wet, then 50-60% perlite, about the size of canned peas is a good idea. If you are watering the plant manually and it isn't getting and staying continuously wet, than 30-40% is ok.
 
You might not always want to buy the organic soil since I've heard that a lot of times people get gnat problems with organic soil like miracle grow. What I did was I made my own with 50% coconut husk and 50% natural play sand. (I took this idea from a previous thread and it worked out really well.) It's also better at absorbing the water than regular potting soil and you won't have any gnat problems. Was pretty cheap also.
 
Organic is fine, but most potting mixes will be organic, without the added buzz word that means nothing, in terms of plant health or safety to a chameleon. Organic soil is not like organic foods, which make good sesne. When you use the term organic in reference to soil, it's just to make people feel good, but has no real meaning.

No. What people actually mean is fertilizer free. Most potting soil comes pre fertilized with chemicals which can be harmful to chameleons. People get "organic potting soil" which has none of the nasty chemicals.
 
Last edited:
No. What people actually mean is fertilizer free. Most potting soil comes pre fertilized with chemicals which can be harmful to chameleons. People get "organic potting soil" which has none of the nasty chemicals.

People assume that fertilizer is harmful when in fact, whether it's synthetic fertilizer or organic sources, such as manure, it's all the same, on an elemental level. Plants REQUIRE nutrients to thrive and they only absorb and utilize a certain ration of nutrients, so fertilizer is not going to accumulate in the foliage and cause problems for the chameleons. What would be a problem is fertilizer sprayed on the foliage or eaten directly by the chameleon, but this is eliminated by washing the plant and covering the soil.
People feel more comfortable avoiding fertilizers and I understand the thinking behind it, but the science behind it says it's actually not a bad thing at all to have some slow release granules in your potted plants, with the soil covered to prevent ingestion. The "chemicals" are simple elements found in the air, in the feeders the chameleons are eating, and are the building blocks of life. They can and should be used properly in chameleon plantings and if people knew more about plant physiology and health, they'd have better luck with their plants in their cages and the chameleons would benifit. I never really understand why researching at least basic care for the particular plants people are growing isn't part of researching for their chameleon.....caring for one life successfully broadens the horizons for managing other life.
Soils will not have chemicals or toxic components in them, to the extent they are toxic for planting a plant inside the enclosure in. That said, soil mix is designed to be consumable, as it will carry organisms that could pose harm, components that could cause blockages, and yes, fertilizer that if directly consumed is harmful.
Cover the soil and use the best soil for the plants and the wet growing conditions, not the soil everyone else thinks it's best, because it has organic slapped in the label.
Perlite, charcoal, bark, all are organic, as is peat, compost, coir, and all components of a soil mix, save synthetic fertilizer, which is simply harvested, natural elements, concentrated for ease of use.
 
Yes I get what you're saying, but those other components I ment to mention are some fertilizers come with insecticides and what not hence my earlier post of saying a lot of people that buy organic potting soil like miracle grow wind up with gnats flying around their house when they use them for their chameleon cages and wind up having to get rid of the insects (which isn't hard, but extra work)
 
Yes I get what you're saying, but those other components I ment to mention are some fertilizers come with insecticides and what not hence my earlier post of saying a lot of people that buy organic potting soil like miracle grow wind up with gnats flying around their house when they use them for their chameleon cages and wind up having to get rid of the insects (which isn't hard, but extra work)

I think the reason they get gnats is that the organic soils have more organic matter, which when kept wet, attracts the gnats, as the larvae eat decaying organic matter. Soils left outside can become infested with fungus gnat larvae easily. I grow thousands of plants indoors, under lights ( no, not THOSE plants ) and I fertilize, use many different mixes, some prepackaged, some I make, and there are always a few gnats around. I spray for pests often, so it helps keep things in check, but my point is that fungus gnats are just happy to set up shop in any moist soil, given the chance.
 
I grow thousands of plants indoors, under lights ( no, not THOSE plants )

Oh, come on man... Don't even give me the chance to make a comment here??? I mean I had about three or four great comments before I could even finish the sentence... :mad:

Have you ever tried putting a layer of sand on top of the soil and then covering with rocks? This has worked for me to greatly reduce gnats, but I can't be certain if that is the actual solution or if conditions just were not favorable for the little buggers. o_O
 
Oh, come on man... Don't even give me the chance to make a comment here??? I mean I had about three or four great comments before I could even finish the sentence... :mad:

Have you ever tried putting a layer of sand on top of the soil and then covering with rocks? This has worked for me to greatly reduce gnats, but I can't be certain if that is the actual solution or if conditions just were not favorable for the little buggers. o_O

The sand and rocks, of deep enough, would prevent the gnats from laying eggs there.
I don't do it, because I show plant competitively and certain rules apply to prevent top dressing from being detracting, we want to illustrate to the public how the plants are grown, so ideally, though not always, they should see the soil mix the plant is grown in. There are other reasons I do not, but there is no reason it is not suitable for chameleon cages.

I have heard that mosquito dunks, which use harmless biological methods like bacteria and nematodes, kill gnats when sprayed in the infested soil.
 
Back
Top Bottom