I own a baby veiled!! :D

By the way I still don´t have live plants in the enclosure¿which ones could I use??

Thanks

well there is a safe plant list here on this site.
under the resources tab in the green bar at the top.
but i use.. scheffelara, pothos, and i will be buying some devils ivy and a ficus.
if you cant find any bc of the time of year...
LLL sells live plants.
 
This shows you how to tell if its a male or female veiled...
http://web.archive.org/web/20060819...m.com/html/husbandry/glossary/tarsalspur.html

Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
Here are the picks ;)
 

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cage looks great.
and cute little chammy butt. haha.

I think it is a male, i see a little white pimply thing on that back foot,
but get a closer pic to be sure.
 
That size chameleon can handle 1/4 or even 1/2" crickets just fine. Pinheads are mainly for neonates (newly hatched). Your cage looks pretty good. Bet your little guy is a happy little fella. Good luck!
 
Thanks! he is drinking a lot of water!! tomorrow I´ll get the crickets!! but when I saw that poo I felt a little bit reliefed. I got a problem: Why does he closes his eyes too much??
 
Thanks! he is drinking a lot of water!! tomorrow I´ll get the crickets!! but when I saw that poo I felt a little bit reliefed. I got a problem: Why does he closes his eyes too much??

is he keeping them closed?
or just when watering?
is it during the day and they are staying closed for minutes at a time?
what wattage is your uvb? 5.0, 10.0? what brand?
how old is it?
how close to his cage is it? from his basking spot to the light?
 
is he keeping them closed?
or just when watering?
is it during the day and they are staying closed for minutes at a time?
what wattage is your uvb? 5.0, 10.0? what brand?
how old is it?
how close to his cage is it? from his basking spot to the light?
No, he keeps them open, but sometimes he closes his eyes when he is basking, but the lights are on from 6am to 6pm so I don´t know if its about his photoperiod all the lights are about "12" inches from the highest zone.
Brand is Exo Terra 26 watts new bulb, and the basking lamp is an Exo Terra Halogen.
When he drinks he closes them
 
No, he keeps them open, but sometimes he closes his eyes when he is basking, but the lights are on from 6am to 6pm so I don´t know if its about his photoperiod all the lights are about "12" inches from the highest zone.
Brand is Exo Terra 26 watts new bulb, and the basking lamp is an Exo Terra Halogen.
When he drinks he closes them

how long does he close his eyes for when basking?
and closed when misting is normal ,they dont like water in their eyes any more than we do.
the uvb bulb may be causing issues with his eyes.
i would replace with a reptiglo or reptisun uvb bulb 5.0
 
Its possible that the uvb bulb is irritating them, but i dont know the exo terra brand.
Did he just shed and the eye thing just started?
if so, then hes just got skin is his eys and hes trying to remove it.
try a warm shower. or extra extra extra long warm misting.
 
It is my opinion and an honest one you DO NOT use the exto terra bulbs. They are prepacked in with starter kits and they are horrible. The UV has been known to stop transmitting and cause Bone disease. I speak from first hand experience because my first vieled died. As far as meal worms i would not feed them to babies that small. I would defin not feed them to a baby that has a poor light source. They need good environments to digest the shells from meal worms.

Is he shedding? They rub when they shed.

But, this is just my opinion. I am no expert. Im just speaking from one experience i had
 
More pics :D
 

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