Intro/Newbie Questions with Pics…

Wpaoli

New Member
Hello, All!

I’m a proud new owner of what I think is a 2-3 month old Veiled Cham. I say that because I just brought it home today and the kids who work at the local pet store (which is located in a VERY small town) were not sure of much of anything other than it’s a Veiled. They had three in the lot, and I chose the one that seemed larger and more active.

I’m not new to reptiles at all, just chameleons. I currently have a very nice Leopard Gecko named Chester who’s been with us for going on a year now (super friendly, and super hungry ALL the time)- and I’ve had a newt and anole here and there over the course of my life. In any case, I got really interested in lizards while I was in Iraq during my last tour back in 2007. Not really sure what they were, but they would come out at night and rip moths out of mid air around our light fixtures. I digress.

The reason I’m here (aside from the GREAT information) is because I have what must seem like newbie questions, but before I get to the Q’s, let me tell you what I have so far:

One green chameleon- no idea of sex, and approximately 3 to 3 ½” long from nose to tail. It’s in the final stages of a shed and still has dead skin on his head.

One Cage that’s 18”L X 12”W X 20”H and it’s made by Zilla

One 13w Repti Glo 5.0 UVB with a metal bulb holder.

One 60w regular old light bulb for basking, again with a metal bulb holder.

I have a can of Repti Calcium without D3

A small Palm plant and some pretty long vine plastics that create the zig zag effect from basking area to the lowest point in the cage (I plan to add two more spider plants tomorrow).

I’m using a generic spray mister 3X daily for about 2 minutes until everything starts dripping.

Before I turned it’s lights off for the night, the temp was about 90 degrees and the humidity was sitting at about 60%

I have not fed it tonight, but plan to do so tomorrow morning.

Here are my questions:

1. From the pictures, can anyone tell me the age and/or sex of the beastie?

2. When I feed it tomorrow, how many SMALL crickets do I offer, and do I use any of the calcium?

3. Other than a pricey dripper, what else can I used that will drip water rather slowly for an hour or so twice a day? I plan to have the drip tube splash on the plastic plant and then drip down into the real potted plants.

4. Back to feeding, do I try to get the crickets in the leaves, put them on the base of the cage or try to offer from a small opaque cup?

5. What’s the best gut load for these crickets? I have apples, potatoes, and dog food on hand.

6. Do I feed it every day, once a day in the AM, or a couple times a day depending on how many it eats in the AM?

7. If this is a female- will she lay eggs without being in contact with a male? If so, how do I prepare for that wonder?

Okay, those are my questions. I hope the experienced members of the forum can help me.

Thanks in advance for any answers and advice- I need it. And I’m quite sure I’ll have more down the road. This is an excellent forum!

Regards,

Will
 

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Hello Will !

Welcome to the forums and i am also a little new hear but had experience with a male veiled for about 3 years. Anyway where do we start...her goes

1. He/she looks about 2-3 months as you claim and is a veiled, but need more and better pics...

2. im leaning toward the cham of being a female not 100% sure because of the pics...you can tell if its a male by seeing a noticable bump at the back of the hind feet...if there is no such bump than you have a female. im not sure how to care for females when they lat infertile eggs but do some research.

3. The temp you have "her" in is too high- at the basking lamp the temp should be 80-85 max..place it at a corner at the top of the cage so the cham can decide to go at different spots that are cooler or warmer..the cooler spots should be 70-75 degrees max ..BTW is it a screen cage..if not get one asap.

4. feed the chame 8-12 crikets during the day..they sleep at night like us. gut the crickets with veggies and friuts( oranges, carrots, apples, oats, etc.)
and the crickets should be no bigger than the width between the cham's head from eye to eye,,that the rule ofthumb when feeding chams feeder insects- also diverse your feeder insects (crickets are the main diet but use silkworms, hornworms, superworms, dubia roaches, etc. when he continues to grow and becomes bigger. I recommend not to use mealworms-to much shell and not good stuf in it.

4.Humdity should 40-60% use humidity gauge. mist about 3-5 times day..

5. have preferably live plant- that re nontoxic- ficus benjanina(weeping fig), hibiscus(flowers edible), pothos, and dwarf umbrella plant(schlefferla)..the pla ts you have may not be good, -live plants help humdity.

Overall goodluck with your veiled...and post more pics of your enclosure and cham. let us know how he/she might be doing.:)
 
1. From the pictures, can anyone tell me the age and/or sex of the beastie?
female i think....about 2-3 moths old by the pics

2. When I feed it tomorrow, how many SMALL crickets do I offer, and do I use any of the calcium?
8-12 small crickets, lightly dust them with calcium without d3
use calcium without d3 5days a week, use calcium with d3 2wice a month, and get repcal herptivite and again use 2wice a month

3. Other than a pricey dripper, what else can I used that will drip water rather slowly for an hour or so twice a day? I plan to have the drip tube splash on the plastic plant and then drip down into the real potted plants.

use a plastic cup and poke underneath useing a thumb nail and place ontop of cage to let drip..try many times until desirable drip rate

4. Back to feeding, do I try to get the crickets in the leaves, put them on the base of the cage or try to offer from a small opaque cup?

you can either free range or cup feed...free range is dump the crickets in the cage adn let the cham hunt or you can cup feed by placing the crickets in the cup and place it the cage so you know th cham eats all the crickets and the easy to clean up.

5. What’s the best gut load for these crickets? I have apples, potatoes, and dog food on hand.

veggies and friuts are good (apples, carrots, oats, oranges,etc.)

6. Do I feed it every day, once a day in the AM, or a couple times a day depending on how many it eats in the AM?

feed the chame for now everyday until it grows to br about 4-6 months and gradually decrease amount of crickets from small 8-12 to medium/large crickets 5-8....once full grown about a year feed every other day during the day...

7. If this is a female- will she lay eggs without being in contact with a male? If so, how do I prepare for that wonder?

she will lay infetile eggs if the cham is a she...i dont know much about this topic but once she starts crwling on the ground or acts like digging, then get a bin full of soil or sand and place the cham in it and let her lay her eggs, but be aware to up the calcium but not too much or her eggs will be calcified and remain in her and kill her... do more research...and post more pics!!!!!
 
Thanks...

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I have an all open wire mesh cage. Tried looking at the back of the legs... front and back- but can't see any bump. However, I did a search and saw someone calling his a male, but I didn't see any bumps in that pic either. I'll try for some better ones tomorrow.

No matter- now what do I have on my hands if this IS a female besides the temp concerns? And... if she does lay eggs, those dogs ain't gonna hatch are they? I know some lizards can lay unfertalized eggs... and then ALL their offspring are female, but I don't think that applies to chams.

Will the colors not be as nice as a male's? Are the females meaner- or less social?

Meh, I'm sure we'll figure it out. This Cham is a test run for one of those fancy blue beasties- a Nosey Be.

Don't worry, we'll love her/him either way.
 
dont worry the eggs wont hatch...females in general are less aggressive than males but every single chameleon is different and has a unique personality..i have pics to show you differences of male and female...good luck either way if its a male or female...let us know and post pics..:)

the first two are female: one with foot and no bumps (called tarsal spur)
and second pic is full body general female veiled cham

3 pic is full body gernal male cham and last pic is foot with bump showing that its a male and shows up at birth right away. veileds are easy to sex at birth.
 

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I'm pretty sure its male...but better pictures of the heel should help. I think I see a small spur there...but the pictures is small.

The UVB light will allow the chameleon to produce D3 which will allow it to use the calcium in its system and in what it eats. I use the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light for UVB.

For a hatchling, I keep the temperatures in the warmest part of the cage in the low 80's because their little bodies cool and warm and dehydrate more quickly than the adults.

Since most of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus, its important to dust the insects (just before feeding them to the chameleon) at most feedings to make up for it.

I also dust lightly twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder so tht the chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 it needs from its exposure to the UVB. D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A will....however there is controversy about whether all/any chameleons can convert it though. Excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.

You can/should gutload the insects and feed them well too. Crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts, etc. can be fed a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red peppers, sweet potato, etc.).

Female veileds can lay eggs once they are sexually mature without having mated (and no...the eggs will not hatch)...but you don't have to worry about that for a while yet.

You can feed it as many appropriate sized crickets as it will eat in a couple of minutes at each feeding for now. I dust them with calcium, etc. as I already described. I just let the crickets loose in the cage...but try not to have more than a couple left over so they don't bite or annoy the baby. I usually feed once or sometimes twice a day.

I don't use a dripper on hatchlings because they might aspirate water...so I just mist the cage well and they will lick it up.

Here are some sites that should help too....
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/

Good luck with it!
 
Your on the right path. When I feed my cham, I gently shake the crickets out of a cup onto a patch of fake leaves and then, for the most part, 75% of them walk out onto the branches to their entertaining death. The other 25% fall to the base of the cage where I pick them up and hand feed them to him.

I was going to cup feed at the beginning as it seems to be way easier to monitor what my guys was eating. After I put those crickets in the cage the first time and saw him go into hunt mode for the next half hour I couldn't take that away from him
 
90 degrees is way to hot for a cham that young..i have a male but they do not seem to develop a pronounced spur at the heel till they are a little older..but you can also tell because you will see a bump underneaqth the hind of the cham but can not tell unless you have a male and a female together to compare..
 
Thanks for all the awesome replies, everyone. I put in about 10 small crickets today and watched him eat one… then I saw him drink some water off a leaf. I guess he’s adjusting because I can only see two crickets left in the cage and he’s still pretty active.

The temp is still about 90 degrees three inches from the bulb. Don’t worry, he doesn’t hang out there… he hangs another two inches below that and moves to the other side quite often.

I’m going to dust his crickets tomorrow morning so I have him on the same schedule as the Gecko… going to gut load tonight on some squash and apple.

Again, thanks for the replies. I’ll be sure to keep you all posted on his progress and ask a lot of dumb questions for sure.
 
Okay, changed the 60w bulb to a blue 40w basking bulb and the temps are much better- 84 degrees three inches from the bulb, 72 degrees at the bottom corner. Temps at night are around 72 degrees- 70 when I have the ceiling fan on.

Thanks again for all the advice.
 
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