Just help me please

[Mayybbee]

So i got my 11month old panther chameleon last week Sunday. He has the super big cage on a table, the t5 high output uvb light (might have typed that wrong) a 75 watt basking light its 75 because im in the basement so its colder and im in canada, in the summer i will move it down to 50-60 watts i have climbing spots all over with woden dowels, fake plants for him to hide. I will be getting real plants soon. Humidity is around 40-50% in the day and 80-90% at night, day temp is just under 80 night time temp just below 70. He had a few hornworms first few days because that was all i could find to buy, going to buy silkworms as soon as they are back in stock. He had the supplement with d3 twice already this week and i wont be giving that for another month, just regular supplement without d3. He keeps closing one eye while basking recently and im not sure why, we had family over yesterday and some kids came down to look at him but aside from that i have given him lots of space, not sure if there is something else going on. Please help

 

[GrannyK]

Hi! Welcome to the forum! Your t5 is it a linear light or double dome compact? Also the calcium supplement that contains d3 is only to be used 2x/month like the 1st and 15th. Plain calcium every other feeding. Hornworms are a good treat but silkworms are a much better staple food. How do you measure his basking temp? Probe thermometer at stick or gauge on wall near branch? Maybe his basking temp is too hot but I’m thinking supplements or uvb needs correction. Has he had a parasite check do you know?

 

[elizaann2]

Hello and warmest welcomes to you! I am sorry to hear your little guy isn't feeling too well. Lets review your husbandry and see if we can help get things settled better for him. If you can copy the form below and fill it out to the best of your ability, someone here will review it for you. Also, please include photos of your entire enclosure, including the lights on the top.

 

[elizaann2]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with, and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long do you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high-traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem -

 

[MissSkittles]

So i got my 11month old panther chameleon last week Sunday. He has the super big cage on a table, the t5 high output uvb light (might have typed that wrong) a 75 watt basking light its 75 because im in the basement so its colder and im in canada, in the summer i will move it down to 50-60 watts i have climbing spots all over with woden dowels, fake plants for him to hide. I will be getting real plants soon. Humidity is around 40-50% in the day and 80-90% at night, day temp is just under 80 night time temp just below 70. He had a few hornworms first few days because that was all i could find to buy, going to buy silkworms as soon as they are back in stock. He had the supplement with d3 twice already this week and i wont be giving that for another month, just regular supplement without d3. He keeps closing one eye while basking recently and im not sure why, we had family over yesterday and some kids came down to look at him but aside from that i have given him lots of space, not sure if there is something else going on. Please help

Hi and welcome. In order to provide you the best help possible, filling out the help form above and providing some clear pics of your chameleon and his enclosure are needed.

 

[Mayybbee]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with, and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long do you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high-traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem

• Your Chameleon - Panther Chameleon, male, just over 11 months old. Been in my care for about 1 week now
• Handling - the first day or so there was some light handling as i was fixing his walking branches, now very little to no handling
• Feeding - First few days were hornworms since they were the only thing available. He had about 4 the first day, bought mealworms and potato bugs as that was the next thing available, had about 5 tiny potato bugs, he didnt eat the mealworms for about a day or so, just finally ate the mealworms yesterday and he had about 5. Trying to start feeding every other day. Have not gut loaded any since the bugs i had didnt eat the food i put in, hoping i can with silkworms
• Supplements - both zoo med reptile vitamins, one with d3 and one without. I didn’t realize i can only give the d3 twice a month, so since his first few batches of food had it, i plan on continuing the twice a month next month
• Watering - i have automatic and a hand held mister, using the hand held more often. 2 minutes of misting in the morning and 2-3 minutes at night. Yes when i mist he drinks the droplets, i also hold a water dripper near him to drink as i dont have an automatic one right now, he drank from my hand (water dripper) for about 3 minutes yesterday. yes i see him drink when i mist, i am starting to hold a water dripper near him from time to time so he can drink until i get a automatic water dripper
• Fecal Description - pooped for the first time the other day, it was about 3 1/2 inches long. The poop part looked almost like watery like a watery sack of poop. Then there was a little bit of orange under the white part of his poop 75% white 25% orange in that area of the poop
• History - just bought him from a breeder last Sunday, not much extra info to give here, he is very docile when i have to go in the cage, displays bright colours for a lot of the day except when he’s basking obviously. The only other concern is this tiny white mark on his hand. Been reading about calcium deposits and I don’t know if that’s what it is. I will attach pictures

 

[Mayybbee]

• Your Chameleon - Panther Chameleon, male, just over 11 months old. Been in my care for about 1 week now
• Handling - the first day or so there was some light handling as i was fixing his walking branches, now very little to no handling
• Feeding - First few days were hornworms since they were the only thing available. He had about 4 the first day, bought mealworms and potato bugs as that was the next thing available, had about 5 tiny potato bugs, he didnt eat the mealworms for about a day or so, just finally ate the mealworms yesterday and he had about 5. Trying to start feeding every other day. Have not gut loaded any since the bugs i had didnt eat the food i put in, hoping i can with silkworms
• Supplements - both zoo med reptile vitamins, one with d3 and one without. I didn’t realize i can only give the d3 twice a month, so since his first few batches of food had it, i plan on continuing the twice a month next month
• Watering - i have automatic and a hand held mister, using the hand held more often. 2 minutes of misting in the morning and 2-3 minutes at night. Yes when i mist he drinks the droplets, i also hold a water dripper near him to drink as i dont have an automatic one right now, he drank from my hand (water dripper) for about 3 minutes yesterday. yes i see him drink when i mist, i am starting to hold a water dripper near him from time to time so he can drink until i get a automatic water dripper
• Fecal Description - pooped for the first time the other day, it was about 3 1/2 inches long. The poop part looked almost like watery like a watery sack of poop. Then there was a little bit of orange under the white part of his poop 75% white 25% orange in that area of the poop
• History - just bought him from a breeder last Sunday, not much extra info to give here, he is very docile when i have to go in the cage, displays bright colours for a lot of the day except when he’s basking obviously. The only other concern is this tiny white mark on his hand. Been reading about calcium deposits and I don’t know if that’s what it is. I will attach pictures

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - zoomed screen cage the biggest one they had about 40 something inches tall, 24 inches wide, and about 24 inches in length
• Lighting - I’m pretty sure the brand is zoomed again not 100% sure for the lights, if I remember correctly, the light is a T5 high output UVB. The basking light is the orangeish (sun) coloured one and it’s 75 W. I got the 75 because I live in Canada and I’m in the basement so it’s colder where I am x2 I plan on switching to a 50 to 60 W light in the summertime, unless I should do that now?
• Temperature - in the daytime. The temperature is just under 80°F and at night time the temperature is just under 70°F not sure what the bottom of the cage temperature would be as the thermometer I have is in the top middle area near his overall chilling spot
• Humidity - daytime humidity is usually between 40 to 60% where it’s night time is usually about 70 to 90% humidity. For now in the bottom of the cage, I have moss, wood chips and just a log to kinda absorb the moisture to keep it humid in there since I don’t have a lot of real plants, I just put in a Pothos plant today, and that seems to have helped maintain the humidity so far . I have a hygrometer to measure the humidity levels
• Plants - mostly fake plants right now I plan to buy some more shortly in the coming weeks, today I just put in a Pothos plant which he immediately seemed to love, or tolerate I should say
• Placement -my cage is in my room in the basement with me. It is on a table that is about 20 inches high any taller and it might hit the ceiling. There is one vent just below the cage. It’s not behind it at all. It’s under the cage behind the table? From the top of the cage it is about 1 m to the floor
• Location - Ontario Canada
  
  

 

[Mayybbee]

Hi! Welcome to the forum! Your t5 is it a linear light or double dome compact? Also the calcium supplement that contains d3 is only to be used 2x/month like the 1st and 15th. Plain calcium every other feeding. Hornworms are a good treat but silkworms are a much better staple food. How do you measure his basking temp? Probe thermometer at stick or gauge on wall near branch? Maybe his basking temp is too hot but I’m thinking supplements or uvb needs correction. Has he had a parasite check do you know?

Im pretty sure its linear it doesn’t look like a double dome light. You can see the pictures below. Im going to by one of those thermometer guns to get a better basking reading, but the overall temp from the thermometer/hygrometer is just under 80F and 40-60% humidity. I think he was just too hot from what i have learned so far, so i moved the light up to hang from the ceiling to get more distance. Should i get a lower wattage light? I got a 75 watt since the basement is colder and its winter rn and im in Canada Ontario. I just got him from a breeder from here https://chameleonscanada.com/ so I assumed he would be okay. I will take him in if needed I just thought it would have already been taken care of with the breeder

 

[MissSkittles]

Not sure who is around, but if you give me a bit of time, I’ll go thru your husbandry.

 

[elizaann2]

I am available tonight, I'll start the review

 

[MissSkittles]

My feedback will be in bold. It’s often best to break this into two parts, so that is what I’ll be doing.

• Your Chameleon - Panther Chameleon, male, just over 11 months old. Been in my care for about 1 week now
• Handling - the first day or so there was some light handling as i was fixing his walking branches, now very little to no handling It’s always good to build and maintain trust with your chameleon. This is a great blog about doing that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
• Feeding - First few days were hornworms since they were the only thing available. He had about 4 the first day, bought mealworms and potato bugs as that was the next thing available, had about 5 tiny potato bugs, he didnt eat the mealworms for about a day or so, just finally ate the mealworms yesterday and he had about 5. Trying to start feeding every other day. Have not gut loaded any since the bugs i had didnt eat the food i put in, hoping i can with silkworms You may need or want to order your feeders from an on line vendor. Usually that’s the best way to get a good variety. I’m attaching some graphics on feeders and gutloading. I understand you didn’t have many feeder options at the time. Hornworms are great for hydration and treats…not a great source for nutrition. Mealworms should not be a staple, but more of a rarity…like if that’s the only feeder you can get for some reason. Potato bugs? I haven’t seen one that I’m aware of but they sound tiny…like a good choice for hatchlings. Like I said, I understand that was what you had and better that than nothing. At 11 months old, he’s kind of on the line between still feeding daily and switching over to every other day. I would say to feed him 2-3 appropriately sized feeders daily for a couple of weeks and then switch him over to 3-4 feeders every other day. I feed all of my adult chameleons 3-4 feeders 3 days a week (M,W,F) with a treat day on the weekend of a hornworm, superworm, couple of waxworms (they’re small), etc. I often let my bsfl pupate into flies and those are just for some fun stimulation and not counted. I don’t specifically gutload, but I do keep my feeders well fed with a variety of fresh organic produce and occasionally some Repashy Bug burger.
• Supplements - both zoo med reptile vitamins, one with d3 and one without. I didn’t realize i can only give the d3 twice a month, so since his first few batches of food had it, i plan on continuing the twice a month next month You need a plain phosphorus free calcium without D3 which is to be lightly dusted at every feeding. It sounds like you have ReptiVite with and without D3. You don’t want to use the one without D3 at all. Do use the one with D3 at one feeding every other week, or twice a month if you prefer.
• Reptivite has preformed vitamin A, which is fat soluble, like D3 is. What that means is it is not quickly metabolized and excreted, but instead stays in the body and can easily build up to toxic levels. If you have been using one of these at every feeding, you need to stop immediately and I’d wait an extra week or so before giving any more of it.
• Watering - i have automatic and a hand held mister, using the hand held more often. 2 minutes of misting in the morning and 2-3 minutes at night. Yes when i mist he drinks the droplets, i also hold a water dripper near him to drink as i dont have an automatic one right now, he drank from my hand (water dripper) for about 3 minutes yesterday. yes i see him drink when i mist, i am starting to hold a water dripper near him from time to time so he can drink until i get a automatic water dripper Usually misting for 2 minutes twice a day (before lights go on and off) is enough. If he is needing more hydration using a dripper for 15-20 minutes daily or adding an additional misting may help. Depending on your night time temps, you may be able to add some naturalistic hydration. Will go over that in the humidity section.
• Fecal Description - pooped for the first time the other day, it was about 3 1/2 inches long. The poop part looked almost like watery like a watery sack of poop. Then there was a little bit of orange under the white part of his poop 75% white 25% orange in that area of the poop The white part is urate and sounds fine. You want it to be white/cream colored and it’s o to have a bit of one end be yellow or orange. If it’s all or mostly dark or orange, that is a sign of dehydration. The poo was probably watery from having hornworms. Because he is extra thirsty, I would advise getting a fecal parasite check. Usually a vet visit is required.
• History - just bought him from a breeder last Sunday, not much extra info to give here, he is very docile when i have to go in the cage, displays bright colours for a lot of the day except when he’s basking obviously. The only other concern is this tiny white mark on his hand. Been reading about calcium deposits and I don’t know if that’s what it is. I will attach pictures I only see the one pic of him, and he looks good. Are you able to get a clear and close pic of the white spot on his hand?

 

[elizaann2]

My feedback will be in bold. It’s often best to break this into two parts, so that is what I’ll be doing.

• Your Chameleon - Panther Chameleon, male, just over 11 months old. Been in my care for about 1 week now
• Handling - the first day or so there was some light handling as i was fixing his walking branches, now very little to no handling It’s always good to build and maintain trust with your chameleon. This is a great blog about doing that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
• Feeding - First few days were hornworms since they were the only thing available. He had about 4 the first day, bought mealworms and potato bugs as that was the next thing available, had about 5 tiny potato bugs, he didnt eat the mealworms for about a day or so, just finally ate the mealworms yesterday and he had about 5. Trying to start feeding every other day. Have not gut loaded any since the bugs i had didnt eat the food i put in, hoping i can with silkworms You may need or want to order your feeders from an on line vendor. Usually that’s the best way to get a good variety. I’m attaching some graphics on feeders and gutloading. I understand you didn’t have many feeder options at the time. Hornworms are great for hydration and treats…not a great source for nutrition. Mealworms should not be a staple, but more of a rarity…like if that’s the only feeder you can get for some reason. Potato bugs? I haven’t seen one that I’m aware of but they sound tiny…like a good choice for hatchlings. Like I said, I understand that was what you had and better that than nothing. At 11 months old, he’s kind of on the line between still feeding daily and switching over to every other day. I would say to feed him 2-3 appropriately sized feeders daily for a couple of weeks and then switch him over to 3-4 feeders every other day. I feed all of my adult chameleons 3-4 feeders 3 days a week (M,W,F) with a treat day on the weekend of a hornworm, superworm, couple of waxworms (they’re small), etc. I often let my bsfl pupate into flies and those are just for some fun stimulation and not counted. I don’t specifically gutload, but I do keep my feeders well fed with a variety of fresh organic produce and occasionally some Repashy Bug burger.
• Supplements - both zoo med reptile vitamins, one with d3 and one without. I didn’t realize i can only give the d3 twice a month, so since his first few batches of food had it, i plan on continuing the twice a month next month You need a plain phosphorus free calcium without D3 which is to be lightly dusted at every feeding. It sounds like you have ReptiVite with and without D3. You don’t want to use the one without D3 at all. Do use the one with D3 at one feeding every other week, or twice a month if you prefer.
• Reptivite has preformed vitamin A, which is fat soluble, like D3 is. What that means is it is not quickly metabolized and excreted, but instead stays in the body and can easily build up to toxic levels. If you have been using one of these at every feeding, you need to stop immediately and I’d wait an extra week or so before giving any more of it.
• Watering - i have automatic and a hand held mister, using the hand held more often. 2 minutes of misting in the morning and 2-3 minutes at night. Yes when i mist he drinks the droplets, i also hold a water dripper near him to drink as i dont have an automatic one right now, he drank from my hand (water dripper) for about 3 minutes yesterday. yes i see him drink when i mist, i am starting to hold a water dripper near him from time to time so he can drink until i get a automatic water dripper Usually misting for 2 minutes twice a day (before lights go on and off) is enough. If he is needing more hydration using a dripper for 15-20 minutes daily or adding an additional misting may help. Depending on your night time temps, you may be able to add some naturalistic hydration. Will go over that in the humidity section.
• Fecal Description - pooped for the first time the other day, it was about 3 1/2 inches long. The poop part looked almost like watery like a watery sack of poop. Then there was a little bit of orange under the white part of his poop 75% white 25% orange in that area of the poop The white part is urate and sounds fine. You want it to be white/cream colored and it’s o to have a bit of one end be yellow or orange. If it’s all or mostly dark or orange, that is a sign of dehydration. The poo was probably watery from having hornworms. Because he is extra thirsty, I would advise getting a fecal parasite check. Usually a vet visit is required.
• History - just bought him from a breeder last Sunday, not much extra info to give here, he is very docile when i have to go in the cage, displays bright colours for a lot of the day except when he’s basking obviously. The only other concern is this tiny white mark on his hand. Been reading about calcium deposits and I don’t know if that’s what it is. I will attach pictures I only see the one pic of him, and he looks good. Are you able to get a clear and close pic of the white spot on his hand?

View attachment 362316View attachment 362317

You beat me too it. Do you want me to do the other half of the review?

 

[MissSkittles]

You beat me too it. Do you want me to do the other half of the review?

Go wild!

 

[elizaann2]

Go wild!

Perfect! I'm on it!

 

[elizaann2]

Alrighty, see my feedback in bold also

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - zoomed screen cage the biggest one they had about 40 something inches tall, 24 inches wide, and about 24 inches in length. Perfect!
• Lighting - I’m pretty sure the brand is zoomed again not 100% sure for the lights, if I remember correctly, the light is a T5 high output UVB. I think you are right too, I can see the logo on a photo you posted. What is the UVB light strength? It will say somewhere on the actual linear light, 5.0 or 10.0 is what you are looking for. The basking light is the orangeish (sun) coloured one and it’s 75 W. Is the bulb colored orange? I got the 75 because I live in Canada and I’m in the basement so it’s colder where I am x2 I plan on switching to a 50 to 60 W light in the summertime, unless I should do that now? This all depends on your temps, you want your basking branch temperature to be 80-85 degrees F or 26-29 degrees C. The ambient temp of the enclosure you want 78-72 degrees F or 25-22 degrees C.
• Temperature - in the daytime. The temperature is just under 80°F and at night time the temperature is just under 70°F not sure what the bottom of the cage temperature would be as the thermometer I have is in the top middle area near his overall chilling spot. What are you using to get your temp levels? I like to have at least 2 in each enclosure, one at the basking branch and one near the middle/middle of the enclosure so I can get a read on ambient temps. Night temps if you can get to 68 or even a smidge colder that would be great.
• Humidity - daytime humidity is usually between 40 to 60% where it’s night time is usually about 70 to 90% humidity. Good for night humidity! Day humidity you want in the range of 40-50% For now in the bottom of the cage, I have moss, wood chips and just a log to kinda absorb the moisture to keep it humid in there since I don’t have a lot of real plants, I just put in a Pothos plant today, and that seems to have helped maintain the humidity so far . I have a hygrometer to measure the humidity levels. I would remove the moss and wood chips, they could cause impaction issues if eaten by your chameleon.
• Plants - mostly fake plants right now I plan to buy some more shortly in the coming weeks, today I just put in a Pothos plant which he immediately seemed to love, or tolerate I should say. Good, I would do live plants as soon as you possibly can. Plants you want to place in kind of a curtain in the middle and bottom of the enclosure so your boy can move up to the top branches, get UVB and warmth and then can move down to the plants and hide where he feels most comfortable. I'll attach a document with safe plants for you to review
• Placement -my cage is in my room in the basement with me. It is on a table that is about 20 inches high any taller and it might hit the ceiling. There is one vent just below the cage. It’s not behind it at all. It’s under the cage behind the table? From the top of the cage it is about 1 m to the floor. I would watch the vent, if warm or cold air is blowing out of it, it could cause temp problems in your enclosure. If you can move your chameleon away from the vent that would be best.

I'm going to attach a few more documents to help you out. One is a great care sheet from the Chameleon Academy, I follow this for my panther. The other is a check list for your enclosure set up. One thing that could help your boy eat is some kind of feeder run cup that you attach to the wall of your enclosure, this is where you will put his bugs, after some time he will figure out where the food is. its nice to keep the food contained so there is less risk of parasites getting ingested from a lose cricket running through a spot where poop used to be.

Great resources for you are the Chameleon Academy website and Neptune the Chameleon Website. Both can also be found on YouTube.

Panther care sheet

 

[Mayybbee]

I only see the one pic of him, and he looks good. Are you able to get a clear and close pic of the white spot on his hand?

Here the white spot on his feet, I lured him out with some food to catch this and also noticed this white spot on his tongue. Could this be why he is also not really shooting his tongue far?, only a couple inches. The first time we fed him it was like that, and I didn’t think anything of it, but now im learning that its not normal. Just seeing this on his tongue, maybe that is why?

 

[Mayybbee]

Also thank you all so much for the help. I have been relying on Neptune the chameleon videos and google so its a great relief to have personal support. I really appreciate it

 

[MissSkittles]

Here the white spot on his feet, I lured him out with some food to catch this and also noticed this white spot on his tongue. Could this be why he is also not really shooting his tongue far?, only a couple inches. The first time we fed him it was like that, and I didn’t think anything of it, but now im learning that it’s not normal. Just seeing this on his tongue, maybe that is why?View attachment 362325View attachment 362324View attachment 362323

Looks like it might be some early shedding. Adult chameleons shed body part by body part and it can take a couple of days or so.

Also thank you all so much for the help. I have been relying on Neptune the chameleon videos and google so its a great relief to have personal support. I really appreciate it

Awesome! Do check out Chameleon Academy too…incredible source of info and always kept to current standards. There are videos for them too.

 

[Mayybbee]

View attachment 362325

and what about that white part on his tongue, never noticed that before, not sure if that is just his tongue, or like a blister or something

 

[BleuSaphir]

I am not sure that might be scab wound from any insect bite?