Just want to make sure my cham is healthy

Lost wolf

New Member
My chameleon is a vailed chameleon. I think it is a male based on the size of his Vail and that he is growing Spurs. He is 3 months old but I have had him for 5 days.
I have held him twice since I got him and both times he climbed on me I didn't pick him up.
I feed him 5 small crickets and 5 wax worms. I feed him about 10 am but that is going to change once I go to school tomorrow. I have been feeding the crickets dry milk and the wax worms a mix of bran and honey.
I dust them with reptivite when I get them and when I feed them.
I have a water fountain for him and I mist him twice a day one in the morning and once in the evening. I must until the soil is damp. I have seen him drink from the plants in his cage and from the water fountain.
He poops once to twice a day it is brown it is soft but firm and his urates is white and sometimes a bit yellow and soft but firm. I don't know he has been tested.
The breeder told me that both of his parents are healthy and haven't had any problems.

Cage
Mesh cage 30 by 30 by 18 in
Uvb bulb and nocturnal infrared bulb the uvb bulb I turn on at 9am and turn it off around 10 pm I keep the nocturnal bulb on.
Basking spot is 90°f the cool area is between 70-80° f and at night it is 65-70° I have 2 thermometers.
Humidity is between 50-80% normally about 60% misting and the water fountain keep the humidity up my thermometers also tell me the humidity
I am not using live plants
It is in my bedroom which I am not sleeping in (I have been sleeping in my brothers room because his bed is more comfortable) I am the only person who spends more then 2 min in the room. There are no fans or vents near the cage. The cage is 29 in from the ground.
I live just outside DC in a residential area were nothing happens
 

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My chameleon is a vailed chameleon. I think it is a male based on the size of his Vail and that he is growing Spurs. He is 3 months old but I have had him for 5 days.
I have held him twice since I got him and both times he climbed on me I didn't pick him up.
I feed him 5 small crickets and 5 wax worms. I feed him about 10 am but that is going to change once I go to school tomorrow. I have been feeding the crickets dry milk and the wax worms a mix of bran and honey.
I dust them with reptivite when I get them and when I feed them.
I have a water fountain for him and I mist him twice a day one in the morning and once in the evening. I must until the soil is damp. I have seen him drink from the plants in his cage and from the water fountain.
He poops once to twice a day it is brown it is soft but firm and his urates is white and sometimes a bit yellow and soft but firm. I don't know he has been tested.
The breeder told me that both of his parents are healthy and haven't had any problems.

Cage
Mesh cage 30 by 30 by 18 in
Uvb bulb and nocturnal infrared bulb the uvb bulb I turn on at 9am and turn it off around 10 pm I keep the nocturnal bulb on.
Basking spot is 90°f the cool area is between 70-80° f and at night it is 65-70° I have 2 thermometers.
Humidity is between 50-80% normally about 60% misting and the water fountain keep the humidity up my thermometers also tell me the humidity
I am not using live plants
It is in my bedroom which I am not sleeping in (I have been sleeping in my brothers room because his bed is more comfortable) I am the only person who spends more then 2 min in the room. There are no fans or vents near the cage. The cage is 29 in from the ground.
I live just outside DC in a residential area were nothing happens

At that age you should be feeding him as many appropriate sized crickets and other insects as he will eat in a minute or two at each feeding...dusted with a phosphorous-free calcium powder...not so heavily that they look like ghosts. Twice a month it's reckon that you dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder...and twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. D3 and prEformed vitamin A can build upmin the system so you need to be careful with them the chameleon should produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. UVB from the light will not build up in the chameleon's system as long as it can move in or out of the UVB at will. By using a vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed sources do not build up in the system like prEformed sources do) of vitamin A it leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.

It's important to gutload/feed your insects well too. For crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches you can use a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, collards, kale, endive, escarole, carrot, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as pears apples, melon, berries.

Unless your room temperature drops below 65F at night there is no need for heat at night and there is never a reason for the chameleon to have light at night.

I'm not a fan of water fountains...misting and providing a dripper are better options.

If you post a photo of its heels we can likely tell you if it's male or not. You can tell the day they are hatched.
Hope this helps!
 
At that age you should be feeding him as many appropriate sized crickets and other insects as he will eat in a minute or two at each feeding...dusted with a phosphorous-free calcium powder...not so heavily that they look like ghosts. Twice a month it's reckon that you dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder...and twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. D3 and prEformed vitamin A can build upmin the system so you need to be careful with them the chameleon should produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. UVB from the light will not build up in the chameleon's system as long as it can move in or out of the UVB at will. By using a vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed sources do not build up in the system like prEformed sources do) of vitamin A it leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.

It's important to gutload/feed your insects well too. For crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches you can use a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, collards, kale, endive, escarole, carrot, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as pears apples, melon, berries.

Unless your room temperature drops below 65F at night there is no need for heat at night and there is never a reason for the chameleon to have light at night.

I'm not a fan of water fountains...misting and providing a dripper are better options.

If you post a photo of its heels we can likely tell you if it's male or not. You can tell the day they are hatched.
Hope this helps!
Ok thanks and my parents keep the house below 65° that's why I have the heating light on all the time. He only claims on my when he wants to so idk when I'll be able to show u
 
Congratulations on your new chameleon. There's lots to learn about different feeder insects for him (for example wax worms are not a healthy food - they are just too fatty. Chameleons do love them, but you should not give 5 a day. Maybe 1 if he's been good lol).

You don't need a night light, it will disturb his sleep.
Everything Kinyonga says about supplements and gutload is important and the fountain is a bad idea because they so quickly get teeming with bacteria and are hard to clean.

Lastly I have got to mention that he really needs more branches and foliage in there. Have a look here at the kind of thing I mean - https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-official-enclosure-picture-thread.49688/
 
Thank you
Congratulations on your new chameleon. There's lots to learn about different feeder insects for him (for example wax worms are not a healthy food - they are just too fatty. Chameleons do love them, but you should not give 5 a day. Maybe 1 if he's been good lol).

You don't need a night light, it will disturb his sleep.
Everything Kinyonga says about supplements and gutload is important and the fountain is a bad idea because they so quickly get teeming with bacteria and are hard to clean.

Lastly I have got to mention that he really needs more branches and foliage in there. Have a look here at the kind of thing I mean - https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-official-enclosure-picture-thread.49688/
Congratulations on your new chameleon. There's lots to learn about different feeder insects for him (for example wax worms are not a healthy food - they are just too fatty. Chameleons do love them, but you should not give 5 a day. Maybe 1 if he's been good lol).

You don't need a night light, it will disturb his sleep.
Everything Kinyonga says about supplements and gutload is important and the fountain is a bad idea because they so quickly get teeming with bacteria and are hard to clean.

Lastly I have got to mention that he really needs more branches and foliage in there. Have a look here at the kind of thing I mean - https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-official-enclosure-picture-thread.49688/
Thank you
I will change his diet
I clean the water fountain everyday already just to be safe
I have more plants/ branches in the mail
 
Any chance you could fill out the form as it's posted? Listen to the above, these people have been working with Chams for a long time. Glancing over there is a lot you need to change or your time with your chameleon will be limited.

Lose the red light
Lose the fountain
Feed more variety, way less wax worms
MUCH more plants, branches (make it hard to find him)
Get rid of the soil
Gutload with more vegetables, seeds, nuts
Mist for 3-5 min straight multiple times a day
You will need a larger cage if you plan to have this animal for its full lifespan

If you care about this animal these things need to be applied.

Good luck
 
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