MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
If she was sleeping while the lights were on, yes, be concerned and get her back to the vet.
Length in labor of infertile eggs
- Thread starter Mrs.Rocky
- Start date
Mrs.Rocky
Member
No not sleeping. She was wide awake. Idk if I interrupted her digging or what. I didn’t even know she was down there til I got there and then the light on and she staired at me. Now I peaked she is back on the branch. So idk if I interrupted something. But my husband said when he left she was sleeping on her branch she wasn’t at the bottom.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Is she still lumpy? If it were me I’d make a vet appointment before the weekend and see about getting an x ray to see how many, if any eggs are still inside her. Is much better to know and avoid that late night weekend emergency with no vets open.
Mrs.Rocky
Member
She has an appointment on Saturday. She’s had that appointment. She is lumpy still on one side. So I haven’t gone into her cage today after I turned in the light I’ve left her. Hopefully it was digging. But she for sure wasn’t sleeping. Her back was more downward when we made eye contact. I didn’t pick her up and walked away. She made her way back up. I’ll keep posted later. Thank you!
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
Bottom half the viv still wrapped?
Mrs.Rocky
Member
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
@Mrs.Rocky How’s your girl been doing today?
KobaOregonherper
Chameleon Enthusiast
@Mrs.Rocky any vet update yet?
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
Come on now, your worrying us! Can’t just leave all the people helping you hanging like this! Lol
Hoping you took her to a good chameleon vet this weekend...she doesn't have much time left if she is still holding onto eggs. They can appear to be ok or even perk up and then just crash...and there's only so long that they can have eggs inside before they start to deteriorate and kill her.
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
Starting to look like we can write this one off...
Mrs.Rocky
Member
Hi guys!
Sorry for the absence. I decided to take a step back because I felt very overwhelmed with the situation, and lots of feed back. I felt my overwhelmEd, anxious felling was projecting into her. Since then she has laid her eggs. She has laid 60 eggs. Today was her vet visit with X-ray. The vet found her perfectly healthy. No eggs. No broken ribs. Her arm is still broke. Need to return in another month for another X-ray and hopefully removal of her cast. The vet explained that she will continue to lay eggs, it isn’t a one time thing (which we knew). Said she wants to keep her in the calcium liquid for her own health/well being. Said she is looks healthy and there shouldn’t be any concerns. Just the egg laying after. But with the calcium and proper husbandry she should be good. She stated she is good for spying since she ruled out egg binding. whenever I have the funds for it to bring her in for the procedure. Since then I have changed her lighting fixtures. She has a T5 uvb with a 5.0 light fixture. And has a daylight saving. Temp is 100, which tomorrow I will swap the bulb for a lower watt. I have looked at 3 cages for change her size cage as well. I started feeding her crickets and hornworms. 5 crickets every other day. And 1 hornworm a week. I have used the multi vitamin once a week and every other day her calcium. But the doctor said every day to continue her liquid calcium she has given her. Thank you for all those that have been helping me with her care. I feel now confident to fix her husbandry fully. Any advice I appreciate.
Sorry for the absence. I decided to take a step back because I felt very overwhelmed with the situation, and lots of feed back. I felt my overwhelmEd, anxious felling was projecting into her. Since then she has laid her eggs. She has laid 60 eggs. Today was her vet visit with X-ray. The vet found her perfectly healthy. No eggs. No broken ribs. Her arm is still broke. Need to return in another month for another X-ray and hopefully removal of her cast. The vet explained that she will continue to lay eggs, it isn’t a one time thing (which we knew). Said she wants to keep her in the calcium liquid for her own health/well being. Said she is looks healthy and there shouldn’t be any concerns. Just the egg laying after. But with the calcium and proper husbandry she should be good. She stated she is good for spying since she ruled out egg binding. whenever I have the funds for it to bring her in for the procedure. Since then I have changed her lighting fixtures. She has a T5 uvb with a 5.0 light fixture. And has a daylight saving. Temp is 100, which tomorrow I will swap the bulb for a lower watt. I have looked at 3 cages for change her size cage as well. I started feeding her crickets and hornworms. 5 crickets every other day. And 1 hornworm a week. I have used the multi vitamin once a week and every other day her calcium. But the doctor said every day to continue her liquid calcium she has given her. Thank you for all those that have been helping me with her care. I feel now confident to fix her husbandry fully. Any advice I appreciate.
So glad to hear that she laid the eggs! Glad the vet did an X-ray and that there are no eggs left in her!
They will lay three or four clutches a year. When you overfeed them they will lay huge clutches like yours did this time. With the "diet" you have her on now she should produce less eggs...but she will likely still produce them for a while.
Make sure you feed/gutload the insects well and continue to provide the proper UVB and supplements and don't make the basking temperature too high (around 82 to85f) and hopefully things will go well for her!
They will lay three or four clutches a year. When you overfeed them they will lay huge clutches like yours did this time. With the "diet" you have her on now she should produce less eggs...but she will likely still produce them for a while.
Make sure you feed/gutload the insects well and continue to provide the proper UVB and supplements and don't make the basking temperature too high (around 82 to85f) and hopefully things will go well for her!
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MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
So glad to hear your lady cham is doing well. 
Mrs.Rocky
Member
I have looked a lot into gut loading. I place mustard greens, apples, carrots, and oranges in the container along with the gut load diet. I have switched her to the long 24” zoo med 5.0 uvb with the T5 fixture. I noticed a huge change in her. I have ordered a less wattage bulb so Tomorrow she will have that swapped. I am trying to look for a better multi vitamin. Any recommendations are appreciated. And I have been using the calcium spray with no D3. And today she is back on the liquid calcium that vet gave her.
For a basking light all you need is a regular household incandescent light bulb of a wattage that produces the right basking temperature. Be careful that the chameleon can't sit close enough to the basking light that it can burn itself...especially that it can't climb up on the screen cage lid close enough to burn itself.
Supplements...Some people just dust with Repashy LoD....but for years I have dusted at all but 4 feedings a month with RepCal phos free calcium powder lightly. This helps to balance the poor ratio of calcium to phos found in most feeder insects. I dust twice a month (say on the 1st and 15th of the month) with RepCal phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly. This gives her some D3 without overdosing her and leaves her to produce the rest of the D3 she needs from her exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause health issues but D3 produced from exposure won't as long as she can move in and out of it. I dust twice a month (say on the 7th and 21st of the month) with Herptivite which has a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A in it. PrOformed sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed (retinol, palmitate, retinyl) sources will so it's safe. This leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed. It's thought that some or even all chameleons cannot convert prOformed vitamin A into useable vitamin A, which is why you might have to give it some once in a fairly long while.
Hope this helps...sorry it's such a complicated explanation...but I like to explain it all so people know why I do what I do.
Supplements...Some people just dust with Repashy LoD....but for years I have dusted at all but 4 feedings a month with RepCal phos free calcium powder lightly. This helps to balance the poor ratio of calcium to phos found in most feeder insects. I dust twice a month (say on the 1st and 15th of the month) with RepCal phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly. This gives her some D3 without overdosing her and leaves her to produce the rest of the D3 she needs from her exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause health issues but D3 produced from exposure won't as long as she can move in and out of it. I dust twice a month (say on the 7th and 21st of the month) with Herptivite which has a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A in it. PrOformed sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed (retinol, palmitate, retinyl) sources will so it's safe. This leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed. It's thought that some or even all chameleons cannot convert prOformed vitamin A into useable vitamin A, which is why you might have to give it some once in a fairly long while.
Hope this helps...sorry it's such a complicated explanation...but I like to explain it all so people know why I do what I do.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Not sure but it seems like it may.
The EcoSmart A19 Light Bulb is a classic shaped bulb that fills the performance gap between incandescent and LED lighting solutions. Operating on a halogen capsule, these lamps offer all the benefits of halogen technology: true color (99+ CRI), instant-on, are fully dimmable and mercury free with energy savings
Mrs.Rocky
Member
Can that one do?
