Lola's cage build

[dshuld]

I have read through this thread after being directed here from another thread about lighting. I don't understand the technical talk but my question is: after having it, do you recommend the pool bulb for plants over the JD?

I never had the JD to truly compare the two. They are fairly secretive on some aspects of their products but generally speaking of what I could find on them, they are pretty close to equivalent. The pool bulb likely has a tad less red spectrum then the JD id the years old info I found is still accurate. For less then half the price of a JD am I happy with them? Unequivocally, yes!! Just pay attention to your temps below them and adjust as needed.

What plants are you going to be using?

 

[ds15]

I never had the JD to truly compare the two. They are fairly secretive on some aspects of their products but generally speaking of what I could find on them, they are pretty close to equivalent. The pool bulb likely has a tad less red spectrum then the JD id the years old info I found is still accurate. For less then half the price of a JD am I happy with them? Unequivocally, yes!! Just pay attention to your temps below them and adjust as needed.

What plants are you going to be using?

Schefflera arboricola, couple different pothos, maranta, dracena, maybe more.

 

[dshuld]

Schefflera arboricola, couple different pothos, maranta, dracena, maybe more.

You'll be fine with the 6500k then. The pool bulbs will grow and bloom a hibiscus but a combo of the 6500k and 3000k together will help a blooming plant flower more if you decide you want a flowering plant.

 

[ds15]

You'll be fine with the 6500k then. The pool bulbs will grow and bloom a hibiscus but a combo of the 6500k and 3000k together will help a blooming plant flower more if you decide you want a flowering plant.

Awesome thanks

 

[dshuld]

Awesome thanks

You're welcome.

 

[cyberlocc]

So to bump your awesome thread again. If your bored with your Pool Bulbs. I can link you up with my Vero 29 CoBs, 97CRI at almost 9k lumens at 50ws.

That's almost 3x the lumens of the JDs for about the same wattage! The cost is pretty comparable. The CoBs are 25 each, and 50ish for a driver, then depending how you sink them is the only variable.

I did pins at first, now I have them in a fixture, my way cost quite a bit more. The pins work fine though, passive cooling up to 100ws. You can also run these cobs at much higher wattage. Up to about 100ws, however the L/W suffer dramatically.

I get like 9400 lumens for 56ws, full bore Max I think it's like 13,500 (100ws). (They can be ran at up to 2150mah, I run them at 1500mah, however with the pin and 50 dollar driver it would be at 1400. Voltage is around 37-37.3 for 1400-1500 and 168 L/W)

 

[dshuld]

So to bump your awesome thread again. If your bored with your Pool Bulbs. I can link you up with my Vero 29 CoBs, 97CRI at almost 9k lumens at 50ws.

That's almost 3x the lumens of the JDs for about the same wattage! The cost is pretty comparable. The CoBs are 25 each, and 50ish for a driver, then depending how you sink them is the only variable.

I did pins at first, now I have them in a fixture, my way cost quite a bit more. The pins work fine though, passive cooling up to 100ws. You can also run these cobs at much higher wattage. Up to about 100ws, however the L/W suffer dramatically.

I get like 9400 lumens for 56ws, full bore Max I think it's like 13,500 (100ws). (They can be ran at up to 2150mah, I run them at 1500mah, however with the pin and 50 dollar driver it would be at 1400. Voltage is around 37-37.3 for 1400-1500 and 168 L/W)

Haha, not bored with them...yet. But, now that my daughter has gone back to N.C. I'm planning on redoing my caging again lmfao. The new plans, though I need to look into it more is running samsung f series strips since I'm moving to 36x18x36 cages. I was looking around that questionable site and quantum board type setup I think will work better for the shorter cages to keep from burning plants.

 

[cyberlocc]

Haha, not bored with them...yet. But, now that my daughter has gone back to N.C. I'm planning on redoing my caging again lmfao. The new plans, though I need to look into it more is running samsung f series strips since I'm moving to 36x18x36 cages. I was looking around that questionable site and quantum board type setup I think will work better for the shorter cages to keep from burning plants.

The board have bad L/W is the issue with that, though they are convient.


Also you have to remember that shade outside is 20k lumens. I don't think you can burn plants with Artificial light.

 

[dshuld]

The board have bad L/W is the issue with that, though they are convient.


Also you have to remember that shade outside is 20k lumens. I don't think you can burn plants with Artificial light.

I don't plan on buying quantums since I want to make a "light tray" with led and t5 in one section. But, it's more about limited space height wise (low ceiling vs two 36 tall cages stacked plus stands, lights and drainage). I know the pool bulb with it's downward heat flow fries plants within the top 2/3" below it though so trying to think cooler running this time around. The f series is ~175 lm/w @1120ma 23v which works out to about 4500lm @ 25w with the 2' strip on my preferred 4000k from what I've seen. Another option I'm still thinking about is the citizen 1212 with MODULED GIGA 15220-B heatsinks and running 3 per cage. But, I like that I can get a "even" spread easier with running the f series strips.

 

[cyberlocc]

I don't plan on buying quantums since I want to make a "light tray" with led and t5 in one section. But, it's more about limited space height wise (low ceiling vs two 36 tall cages stacked plus stands, lights and drainage). I know the pool bulb with it's downward heat flow fries plants within the top 2/3" below it though so trying to think cooler running this time around. The f series is ~175 lm/w @1120ma 23v which works out to about 4500lm @ 25w with the 2' strip on my preferred 4000k from what I've seen. Another option I'm still thinking about is the citizen 1212 with MODULED GIGA 15220-B heatsinks and running 3 per cage. But, I like that I can get a "even" spread easier with running the f series strips.

If slimness is a wish, I would look at active cooling. Modding fixtures is an idea, by that I mean changing for better LEDs.

I don't get why those pool bulbs heat downward. My CoBs and JDs do not.

Some skiny sinks are

https://www.rapidled.com/6-x-12-premium-heat-sink-and-enclosure/

That's what I am using, they have a 20inch version too. You can fit their driver board in there with meanwells, but it takes some modding.

This one is also very nice.
http://www.makersled.com/products/makers-slim-heatsink/

I don't like the way it looks with the fan and a 3d printed housing, but not a bad sink.


Idk about those slim pins you linked. Not sure those will cool much. My huge pins (140mm) get hot as heck with the veros on them at 50ws. Burn you hot, it's part of why I changed to the enclosure it's very cool.

 

[dshuld]

If slimness is a wish, I would look at active cooling. Modding fixtures is an idea, by that I mean changing for better LEDs.

I don't get why those pool bulbs heat downward. My CoBs and JDs do not.

Some skiny sinks are

https://www.rapidled.com/6-x-12-premium-heat-sink-and-enclosure/

That's what I am using, they have a 20inch version too. You can fit their driver board in there with meanwells, but it takes some modding.

This one is also very nice.
http://www.makersled.com/products/makers-slim-heatsink/

I don't like the way it looks with the fan and a 3d printed housing, but not a bad sink.


Idk about those slim pins you linked. Not sure those will cool much. My huge pins (140mm) get hot as heck with the veros on them at 50ws. Burn you hot, it's part of why I changed to the enclosure it's very cool.

They are rated for 75w dissipation but if I went with the citizens I'd only run them at ~30/ 35w each from what I recall playing with the calculator.

 

[cyberlocc]

They are rated for 75w dissipation but if I went with the citizens I'd only run them at ~30/ 35w each from what I recall playing with the calculator.

Right but I am saying, those are 1/4 of the size of Rapids Pins. And Rapids pins barely cool 50ws. Rapid also has the "Pin" formation, which is better for passive cooling. The one you linked is going to need a fan to cool anywhere near 75ws.


Edit: Their datasheet says 40ws, and 71ws for the 50mm tall version. Without a fan, sounds more realistic, even then it be a little hot for my tastes. However would likely work. At 30-35, then just build a cob tray that holds a t5ho fixture, could be done would look good .

I would add lenses to the cobs in such tight quarters so you don't spray them. There is some short ones, 19mm or so height.

 

[dshuld]

Right but I am saying, those are 1/4 of the size of Rapids Pins. And Rapids pins barely cool 50ws. Rapid also has the "Pin" formation, which is better for passive cooling. The one you linked is going to need a fan to cool anywhere near 75ws.


Edit: Their datasheet says 40ws, and 71ws for the 50mm tall version. Without a fan, sounds more realistic, even then it be a little hot for my tastes. However would likely work. At 30-35, then just build a cob tray that holds a t5ho fixture, could be done would look good .

I would add lenses to the cobs in such tight quarters so you don't spray them. There is some short ones, 19mm or so height.

This round of redesigns is going to be purely rain system more then likely. Except, I'll be laying it on top instead of tieing it to the top like I did in Lola's. So I'm not overly worried about floating mist this time. My current plan, with the exception of Lola when I move her again, is all low light plants in the " wall stands". Most likely all pothos this time but I haven't made the final decision on that yet. But, basically between space considerations, heat production, and the fact I'm not chasing high light in this set up is why I'm leaning more towards the f series strips.

On Lola's when I change her over to the new style cages I have planned, I'll still be chasing the high light and will likely go with citizens and 15250-b (mostly due to ordering the cobs from cdiweb). I need to look back at the calculator when the time comes but I think I decided on 4 or 5 staggered at 35/ 40w each if I remember right.

 

[cyberlocc]

This round of redesigns is going to be purely rain system more then likely. Except, I'll be laying it on top instead of tieing it to the top like I did in Lola's. So I'm not overly worried about floating mist this time. My current plan, with the exception of Lola when I move her again, is all low light plants in the " wall stands". Most likely all pothos this time but I haven't made the final decision on that yet. But, basically between space considerations, heat production, and the fact I'm not chasing high light in this set up is why I'm leaning more towards the f series strips.

On Lola's when I change her over to the new style cages I have planned, I'll still be chasing the high light and will likely go with citizens and 15250-b (mostly due to ordering the cobs from cdiweb). I need to look back at the calculator when the time comes but I think I decided on 4 or 5 staggered at 35/ 40w each if I remember right.

Do the F series strips require a Sink?? I need something sinkless and low light for my bug rack idea.

Also why the Citizens? What is their specs, got a link? Are they well priced?

 

[dshuld]

Do the F series strips require a Sink?? I need something sinkless and low light for my bug rack idea.

Also why the Citizens? What is their specs, got a link? Are they well priced?

From everything I've seen, 1.5" flat or L bar to mount the strips in place as a "fixture" is all they need as a sink. Look at some of the par maps on the questionable site though. They aren't "high lumens" but they do produce some pretty usable par numbers depending on configuration.

https://ce.citizen.co.jp/productse/led_category.php

I haven't looked into their vivid series much, I've been looking at their series 6 cobs. They have a calculator to download in there somewhere but it's not mobile friendly. Price wise, they are less then bridgelux from what I've seen on cdiweb. Some of the ones I emailed on and got a better price then what was listed too.

https://www.cdiweb.com/manufacturer/citizen

 

[cyberlocc]

From everything I've seen, 1.5" flat or L bar to mount the strips in place as a "fixture" is all they need as a sink. Look at some of the par maps on the questionable site though. They aren't "high lumens" but they do produce some pretty usable par numbers depending on configuration.

https://ce.citizen.co.jp/productse/led_category.php

I haven't looked into their vivid series much, I've been looking at their series 6 cobs. They have a calculator to download in there somewhere but it's not mobile friendly. Price wise, they are less then bridgelux from what I've seen on cdiweb. Some of the ones I emailed on and got a better price then what was listed too.

https://www.cdiweb.com/manufacturer/citizen

Hmm those strips are neat .

As to the Citizens, that's good to know. I had questioned grabbing some the other day, as they are 12 dollars for their Royal Blue and Amber's.

I am having serious disco issues with my lights, that I need to adjust for now which means rewiring .

I think I'm going to redo by flipping around. Instead of using the blues as I have, I may either axe them completely or move them around. And for the reds, I am going to drop them, and use WW cobs like Vero 2700ks, as both forms of white shouldn't have the rainbowing issues. Though the blues are what is giving me trouble.

Here is a pic of the current design.

The red and blue are on, the white is not. I had to do it that way to make it visible lol. The white is in the middle though.

 

[dshuld]

Hmm those strips are neat .

As to the Citizens, that's good to know. I had questioned grabbing some the other day, as they are 12 dollars for their Royal Blue and Amber's.

I am having serious disco issues with my lights, that I need to adjust for now which means rewiring .

I think I'm going to redo by flipping around. Instead of using the blues as I have, I may either axe them completely or move them around. And for the reds, I am going to drop them, and use WW cobs like Vero 2700ks, as both forms of white shouldn't have the rainbowing issues. Though the blues are what is giving me trouble.

Here is a pic of the current design.

The red and blue are on, the white is not. I had to do it that way to make it visible lol. The white is in the middle though.

Interesting, that's why I'm looking at the 4000k, especially in the citizen line. It covers both ends nicely depending on what cri you go with but still has a nice blueish white overall look. This isn't my pic and is from that other site. I forget which version this is but the 97cri is what I'd go for when I get around to it. This is 4000k compared to I believe it was 3500k in 80 cri versions if I remember correctly.

=

 

[cyberlocc]

Interesting, that's why I'm looking at the 4000k, especially in the citizen line. It covers both ends nicely depending on what cri you go with but still has a nice blueish white overall look. This isn't my pic and is from that other site. I forget which version this is but the 97cri is what I'd go for when I get around to it. This is 4000k compared to I believe it was 3500k in 80 cri versions if I remember correctly.

View attachment 237599=

Ya I think the biggest issue for my build is the blues location. They seem to spread alot, maybe more so then the whites.

The reds do not cast a shadow but the blues do, which means they are hitting at different angles.


So my new idea, but is to move the blues to where the reds are in the pic. And see if a shadow is still cast. If it's not, I will run the blues like that and maybe add 2 reds to the center cob. I will have to move the driver board to the side however that isn't that big of a deal. The lights are 3.5inches from the sides and the board is only 2 inches wide.

I can also then make 2 smallish alumiunum plates or something black to hide the board. This is also condusive to future revisions, as I had planned to add Bluefish minis as controllers, which can then go on the other side of the fixture where the drivers are to match it up.

The whites are very white 5700k, however I was hoping for a little bluer for a blue noon recreation. Or maybe even use them for moonlight only.

I know people say don't add moonlight, however I think a slight moonlight may be beneficial just in case the Cham wakes up or what not or isn't yet in bed at lights out. The wild is not dark, not pitch black anyway. Of course I don't mean ridiculously bright light either, just a faint blue just like the moon. Plants may also benefit from that, as Blue is growth. A small amount of blue light, they would receive from the moon may be beneficial.

 

[cyberlocc]

Interesting, that's why I'm looking at the 4000k, especially in the citizen line. It covers both ends nicely depending on what cri you go with but still has a nice blueish white overall look. This isn't my pic and is from that other site. I forget which version this is but the 97cri is what I'd go for when I get around to it. This is 4000k compared to I believe it was 3500k in 80 cri versions if I remember correctly.

View attachment 237599=

Didn't know the Citizens had a 97CRI, have to link the plug when you get it .

What's the F series strips? You never linked em.

I want some cheapie LEDs for buggies lol. I don't need much, just something that will allow me to grow low light plants in their Vivs.

I want to transplant one of our huge Ivy's into the stick bugs Viv for live food stuff like that. However I have little height for it.

 

[dshuld]

Didn't know the Citizens had a 97CRI, have to link the plug when you get it .

What's the F series strips? You never linked em.

I want some cheapie LEDs for buggies lol. I don't need much, just something that will allow me to grow low light plants in their Vivs.

I want to transplant one of our huge Ivy's into the stick bugs Viv for live food stuff like that. However I have little height for it.

The link to all the citizen cob series is in post 115. Here's the direct link to series 6 though.

https://ce.citizen.co.jp/productse/info.php?no=116

Ledgardener has a nice little about section on the different samsung strips.

https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/

Spd for the series 6 97cri