Meet Ivy...Also how do I know how old she is!!!
- Thread starter AwkwardZombie13
- Start date
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
oof where to start.
Handling- I have watched videos saying you can keep them from being as cranky, if you handle them more frequently. So I've been trying to do that. typically she doesnt want to leave her cage. I will gladly stop handling her as often if that's a problem, or shouldn't happen. She is fine once she is out and displays no signs of stress. Most times though, she IS cranky if I go to handle her, again I leave her alone if she is cranky. Don’t take her out if she doesn’t want to (which it looks like you don’t- for the most part). Veileds are known for being cranky, handling/“taming” won’t change their personality. For extra enrichment and a good treat for coming out (if she walks out on a branch to keep her less stressful), you can take her outside for natural UVB (when it’s the proper temperatures out), give her some treats, and/or put her on a nice free range enclosure (make sure to have a linear UVB bulb and heat light if you plan to leave her on it for a bit).
Food- I was told to offer edible plants to her, she never touches the bok choy or collard greens, but I have it there as an option because I was told to give her the opportunity to. I will stop offering those. She mainly eats crickets, when I say occasional wax worm or meal worm it is VERY seldom, but I have them in the house because my oldest daughter has a beardie. Can I ask why not to give flukers high-calcium diet in addition to leafy greens and fruit? I can understand giving more but why take away an option for the crickets? Fluker’s and broccoli are not good gutloads. I didn’t mean take away crickets, just offer more variety with other types of healthy feeder insects.
Supplements- I am alternating between Calcium w/d3 and Reptivite (also with d/3) every other week. Perfect!
Watering- I work from home so am around more often, I will mist for longer, and less frequently. Great!
Fecal Descriptions- the pet store I purchased from had done fecal samples. It is a highly reputable and privately owned store, from which i've done business for many years. I trust that they are honest. They assumed she was about 5 months old. If it were me, I would take her to an experienced chameleon vet for a fecal float (bring a fresh sample with you- and drop off at least 2 more afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed), bloodwork, and x-rays for peace of mind.
Cage- I'm using the bio-guys' substrate for bio-active. Will replace the exo-terra and use branches instead. again adding pothos to larger enclosure, do not want to transplant twice as its highly susceptible to shock. She can easily get in and out of the laying bin when it is in her enclosure. should I keep it there all the time? was a large bucket probably a 3 gallon capacity but deep. substrate was moist enough for tunnels to be built without concaving. Is that for the enclosure floor or for her lay bin? Keep the lay bin access 24/7. What are the bucket’s dimensions and how high is its substrate depth?
Light- will only be replaced in larger enclosure. Make sure what ever strenght bulb you use is the appropriate distance away from her highest basking branch.
Temp- I will move the basking spot lower so she is not too warm. I use a blue daylight bulb. I'm sure her cage drops lower as that reading is only a few hours after lights out, but i'm slightly narcoleptic so late nights and I don't get along. Get a regular household white light incandescent bulb from the hardware store instead (they work perfectly and are cheap). You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the right temps. Could you get a digital thermometer that shows you the lowest nighttime temps?
Humidity- I was told between 40-60% humidity. I figured mid range was good. I can let it drop more if need be. I intend on having a fogger at night in larger enclosure. Try not to let it past 50% for during the day (high temps and high humidity can cause respiratory infections). When you get a fogger, make sure it is cool mist only. And make sure to properly clean it, its tubes (if there are any), and anything else used thoroughly and often. If it does have tubes, make sure to place the output one at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down.
plants- she has 1 fake plant total. I am removing it when she transfers to larger enclosure with (MORE PLANTS
) Thank you so much for the input here. Pothos will be added. The bonsai is in the fern family and I have done lots of research on whether it is safe. I will add more plants in and more branches replace the exo-terra vines. Get the fake plant out now, everything else here is awesome!
Height- Unfortunately that's the highest place I can put her until her other enclosure is finished, when it is she will be four feet from the ground or more. Will that include the height of the enclosure?
Handling- I have watched videos saying you can keep them from being as cranky, if you handle them more frequently. So I've been trying to do that. typically she doesnt want to leave her cage. I will gladly stop handling her as often if that's a problem, or shouldn't happen. She is fine once she is out and displays no signs of stress. Most times though, she IS cranky if I go to handle her, again I leave her alone if she is cranky. Don’t take her out if she doesn’t want to (which it looks like you don’t- for the most part). Veileds are known for being cranky, handling/“taming” won’t change their personality. For extra enrichment and a good treat for coming out (if she walks out on a branch to keep her less stressful), you can take her outside for natural UVB (when it’s the proper temperatures out), give her some treats, and/or put her on a nice free range enclosure (make sure to have a linear UVB bulb and heat light if you plan to leave her on it for a bit).
Food- I was told to offer edible plants to her, she never touches the bok choy or collard greens, but I have it there as an option because I was told to give her the opportunity to. I will stop offering those. She mainly eats crickets, when I say occasional wax worm or meal worm it is VERY seldom, but I have them in the house because my oldest daughter has a beardie. Can I ask why not to give flukers high-calcium diet in addition to leafy greens and fruit? I can understand giving more but why take away an option for the crickets? Fluker’s and broccoli are not good gutloads. I didn’t mean take away crickets, just offer more variety with other types of healthy feeder insects.
Supplements- I am alternating between Calcium w/d3 and Reptivite (also with d/3) every other week. Perfect!
Watering- I work from home so am around more often, I will mist for longer, and less frequently. Great!
Fecal Descriptions- the pet store I purchased from had done fecal samples. It is a highly reputable and privately owned store, from which i've done business for many years. I trust that they are honest. They assumed she was about 5 months old. If it were me, I would take her to an experienced chameleon vet for a fecal float (bring a fresh sample with you- and drop off at least 2 more afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed), bloodwork, and x-rays for peace of mind.
Cage- I'm using the bio-guys' substrate for bio-active. Will replace the exo-terra and use branches instead. again adding pothos to larger enclosure, do not want to transplant twice as its highly susceptible to shock. She can easily get in and out of the laying bin when it is in her enclosure. should I keep it there all the time? was a large bucket probably a 3 gallon capacity but deep. substrate was moist enough for tunnels to be built without concaving. Is that for the enclosure floor or for her lay bin? Keep the lay bin access 24/7. What are the bucket’s dimensions and how high is its substrate depth?
Light- will only be replaced in larger enclosure. Make sure what ever strenght bulb you use is the appropriate distance away from her highest basking branch.
Temp- I will move the basking spot lower so she is not too warm. I use a blue daylight bulb. I'm sure her cage drops lower as that reading is only a few hours after lights out, but i'm slightly narcoleptic so late nights and I don't get along. Get a regular household white light incandescent bulb from the hardware store instead (they work perfectly and are cheap). You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the right temps. Could you get a digital thermometer that shows you the lowest nighttime temps?
Humidity- I was told between 40-60% humidity. I figured mid range was good. I can let it drop more if need be. I intend on having a fogger at night in larger enclosure. Try not to let it past 50% for during the day (high temps and high humidity can cause respiratory infections). When you get a fogger, make sure it is cool mist only. And make sure to properly clean it, its tubes (if there are any), and anything else used thoroughly and often. If it does have tubes, make sure to place the output one at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down.
plants- she has 1 fake plant total. I am removing it when she transfers to larger enclosure with (MORE PLANTS
) Thank you so much for the input here. Pothos will be added. The bonsai is in the fern family and I have done lots of research on whether it is safe. I will add more plants in and more branches replace the exo-terra vines. Get the fake plant out now, everything else here is awesome!Height- Unfortunately that's the highest place I can put her until her other enclosure is finished, when it is she will be four feet from the ground or more. Will that include the height of the enclosure?
cruz.m
Avid Member
Question is the calcium without d3? Usually I see it like w/o d3. And the reptivite is with or without? I’m confused so I’m sorry if I said anything before that was wrong. Could someone clarifyoof where to start.
Handling- I have watched videos saying you can keep them from being as cranky, if you handle them more frequently. So I've been trying to do that. typically she doesnt want to leave her cage. I will gladly stop handling her as often if that's a problem, or shouldn't happen. She is fine once she is out and displays no signs of stress. Most times though, she IS cranky if I go to handle her, again I leave her alone if she is cranky. Don’t take her out if she doesn’t want to (which it looks like you don’t- for the most part). Veileds are known for being cranky, handling/“taming” won’t change their personality. For extra enrichment and a good treat for coming out (if she walks out on a branch to keep her less stressful), you can take her outside for natural UVB (when it’s the proper temperatures out), give her some treats, and/or put her on a nice free range enclosure (make sure to have a linear UVB bulb and heat light if you plan to leave her on it for a bit).
Food- I was told to offer edible plants to her, she never touches the bok choy or collard greens, but I have it there as an option because I was told to give her the opportunity to. I will stop offering those. She mainly eats crickets, when I say occasional wax worm or meal worm it is VERY seldom, but I have them in the house because my oldest daughter has a beardie. Can I ask why not to give flukers high-calcium diet in addition to leafy greens and fruit? I can understand giving more but why take away an option for the crickets? Fluker’s and broccoli are not good gutloads. I didn’t mean take away crickets, just offer more variety with other types of healthy feeder insects.
Supplements- I am alternating between Calcium w/d3 and Reptivite (also with d/3) every other week. Perfect!
Watering- I work from home so am around more often, I will mist for longer, and less frequently. Great!
Fecal Descriptions- the pet store I purchased from had done fecal samples. It is a highly reputable and privately owned store, from which i've done business for many years. I trust that they are honest. They assumed she was about 5 months old. If it were me, I would take her to an experienced chameleon vet for a fecal float (bring a fresh sample with you- and drop off at least 2 more afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed), bloodwork, and x-rays for peace of mind.
Cage- I'm using the bio-guys' substrate for bio-active. Will replace the exo-terra and use branches instead. again adding pothos to larger enclosure, do not want to transplant twice as its highly susceptible to shock. She can easily get in and out of the laying bin when it is in her enclosure. should I keep it there all the time? was a large bucket probably a 3 gallon capacity but deep. substrate was moist enough for tunnels to be built without concaving. Is that for the enclosure floor or for her lay bin? Keep the lay bin access 24/7. What are the bucket’s dimensions and how high is its substrate depth?
Light- will only be replaced in larger enclosure. Make sure what ever strenght bulb you use is the appropriate distance away from her highest basking branch.
Temp- I will move the basking spot lower so she is not too warm. I use a blue daylight bulb. I'm sure her cage drops lower as that reading is only a few hours after lights out, but i'm slightly narcoleptic so late nights and I don't get along. Get a regular household white light incandescent bulb from the hardware store instead (they work perfectly and are cheap). You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the right temps. Could you get a digital thermometer that shows you the lowest nighttime temps?
Humidity- I was told between 40-60% humidity. I figured mid range was good. I can let it drop more if need be. I intend on having a fogger at night in larger enclosure. Try not to let it past 50% for during the day (high temps and high humidity can cause respiratory infections). When you get a fogger, make sure it is cool mist only. And make sure to properly clean it, its tubes (if there are any), and anything else used thoroughly and often. If it does have tubes, make sure to place the output one at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down.
plants- she has 1 fake plant total. I am removing it when she transfers to larger enclosure with (MORE PLANTS
Height- Unfortunately that's the highest place I can put her until her other enclosure is finished, when it is she will be four feet from the ground or more. Will that include the height of the enclosure?
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
So, if the Reptivite has D3 in it, you don’t need to give the calcium with D3 every other week. Just using the Reptivite with D3 once every other week will be fine, along with a phosphorus free calcium with NO D3 used at every feeding.
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Shoot, great catch! @AwkwardZombie13 only use the Reptivite with D3! Stop the calcium with D3 immediately!Question is the calcium without d3? Usually I see it like w/o d3. And the reptivite is with or without? I’m confused so I’m sorry if I said anything before that was wrong. Could someone clarify
cruz.m
Avid Member
Oh ok I thought I was wrong I was like wait? You can use calcium without d3 and phosphorus free everyday instead of the current one you are using here’s the link to it
keep in mind that’s just what it looks like you do not have to buy it on here though https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP0...ium+without+d3+reptiles&qid=1611783176&sr=8-6AwkwardZombie13
New Member
wait no. the repti calcium has NO d3. the reptivite has NO d3. the calcium with D3 obviously does have d3
cruz.m
Avid Member
Can we see pictures of them this is getting confusing for me
AwkwardZombie13
New Member
Cage- i'll keep her lay bin in. i'll get dimensions.oof where to start.
Handling- I have watched videos saying you can keep them from being as cranky, if you handle them more frequently. So I've been trying to do that. typically she doesnt want to leave her cage. I will gladly stop handling her as often if that's a problem, or shouldn't happen. She is fine once she is out and displays no signs of stress. Most times though, she IS cranky if I go to handle her, again I leave her alone if she is cranky. Don’t take her out if she doesn’t want to (which it looks like you don’t- for the most part). Veileds are known for being cranky, handling/“taming” won’t change their personality. For extra enrichment and a good treat for coming out (if she walks out on a branch to keep her less stressful), you can take her outside for natural UVB (when it’s the proper temperatures out), give her some treats, and/or put her on a nice free range enclosure (make sure to have a linear UVB bulb and heat light if you plan to leave her on it for a bit).
Food- I was told to offer edible plants to her, she never touches the bok choy or collard greens, but I have it there as an option because I was told to give her the opportunity to. I will stop offering those. She mainly eats crickets, when I say occasional wax worm or meal worm it is VERY seldom, but I have them in the house because my oldest daughter has a beardie. Can I ask why not to give flukers high-calcium diet in addition to leafy greens and fruit? I can understand giving more but why take away an option for the crickets? Fluker’s and broccoli are not good gutloads. I didn’t mean take away crickets, just offer more variety with other types of healthy feeder insects.
Supplements- I am alternating between Calcium w/d3 and Reptivite (also with d/3) every other week. Perfect!
Watering- I work from home so am around more often, I will mist for longer, and less frequently. Great!
Fecal Descriptions- the pet store I purchased from had done fecal samples. It is a highly reputable and privately owned store, from which i've done business for many years. I trust that they are honest. They assumed she was about 5 months old. If it were me, I would take her to an experienced chameleon vet for a fecal float (bring a fresh sample with you- and drop off at least 2 more afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed), bloodwork, and x-rays for peace of mind.
Cage- I'm using the bio-guys' substrate for bio-active. Will replace the exo-terra and use branches instead. again adding pothos to larger enclosure, do not want to transplant twice as its highly susceptible to shock. She can easily get in and out of the laying bin when it is in her enclosure. should I keep it there all the time? was a large bucket probably a 3 gallon capacity but deep. substrate was moist enough for tunnels to be built without concaving. Is that for the enclosure floor or for her lay bin? Keep the lay bin access 24/7. What are the bucket’s dimensions and how high is its substrate depth?
Light- will only be replaced in larger enclosure. Make sure what ever strenght bulb you use is the appropriate distance away from her highest basking branch.
Temp- I will move the basking spot lower so she is not too warm. I use a blue daylight bulb. I'm sure her cage drops lower as that reading is only a few hours after lights out, but i'm slightly narcoleptic so late nights and I don't get along. Get a regular household white light incandescent bulb from the hardware store instead (they work perfectly and are cheap). You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the right temps. Could you get a digital thermometer that shows you the lowest nighttime temps?
Humidity- I was told between 40-60% humidity. I figured mid range was good. I can let it drop more if need be. I intend on having a fogger at night in larger enclosure. Try not to let it past 50% for during the day (high temps and high humidity can cause respiratory infections). When you get a fogger, make sure it is cool mist only. And make sure to properly clean it, its tubes (if there are any), and anything else used thoroughly and often. If it does have tubes, make sure to place the output one at the top of her cage so the fog rolls down.
plants- she has 1 fake plant total. I am removing it when she transfers to larger enclosure with (MORE PLANTS
Height- Unfortunately that's the highest place I can put her until her other enclosure is finished, when it is she will be four feet from the ground or more. Will that include the height of the enclosure?
Light- will check strength and am borrowing a solarmeter 6.5.
Temp- will change to household light and mess with wattage
Humidity- thank you
plants- will take out the fake plant. am curious what is wrong with exoterra vines
Height- does not include the 4 ft height she will gain from enclosure. even being at the bottom of her enclosure, she will have 4 feet of height. at the top she will have 8 feet. (hope this made sense)
BACK TO SUPPLEMENTS.
Reptivite has no d3, calcium (daily) has no d3. Calcium with d3 is cycled between that and reptivite.
AwkwardZombie13
New Member
I just pulled photos from online. my camera sucks.Can we see pictures of them this is getting confusing for me
Attachments
cruz.m
Avid Member
@ERKleRose Do you know if the flukers calcium without/with d3 is good. I want to know so that if someone is using it I could actually say if it’s good or not. I’m using the one I linked but I still want to know
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
The preferred supplements are Zoo Med, Arcadia, Sticky Tongue Farms, and Repashy, though all follow different schedules@ERKleRose Do you know if the flukers calcium without/with d3 is good. I want to know so that if someone is using it I could actually say if it’s good or not. I’m using the one I linked but I still want to know
