My schedule?

[dannyisamazing]

Hey, I was just wondering about my schedule for my 3 month old cham.

Every Day I feed him 10 cricket (5 in the morning, 5 at night).
Every 4 days I feed him 2 mealworms along with crickets.
Every 7 days I feed him 1 waxworm also along with some crickets.

I'm just wondering if I'm giving not too much of the mealworms or too less.

Can any body give some of their schedules? Thanks

 

[Kate]

Hey, I was just wondering about my schedule for my 3 month old cham.

Every Day I feed him 10 cricket (5 in the morning, 5 at night).
Every 4 days I feed him 2 mealworms along with crickets.
Every 7 days I feed him 1 waxworm also along with some crickets.

I'm just wondering if I'm giving not too much of the mealworms or too less.

Can any body give some of their schedules? Thanks

Feeding at night does not give him time to digest before bedtime. Can I suggest that you make the last feed at least 4 hrs before lights out. I wouldn't ration him to ten crickets. At that age you could give him as much as he wants. I would forget the wax worms. They are full of fat and are not good. Mealworms are hard to digest so just give now and again. Are you brave enough to introduce Dubai roaches? Small silkworms are good. Are you using supplements to dust?

 

[laurie]

Hi Maybe we can offer more ideas if you complete the attached form.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/

 

[dannyisamazing]

Chameleon Info:



Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon.

Handling - few times every day for around 10 mins

Feeding - 10 crickets every day, 2 mealworms every 4 days, 1 wax worm for the fatty every 7 days.

Supplements - Reptical (I think, not home since hurricane sandy) by tetra. (I know it has D3, I'm waiting for the next expo.)

Watering - Dripper System that goes on the leaves and misting 2 times a day.

Fecal Description - poop is black and pee is white more like popcorn

History - Got him from a Reptile Expo.






Cage Info:



Cage Type - Screen Cage all sides except for the bottom. Going to build 4 feet tall cage soon.

Lighting - Zoomed dual mini dome with 40w heating bulb have natural sunlight from the window for 4 morning to night.

Temperature - 93* F for the basking spot and 87* F around the bottom. measuring by 2 petco gauges.

Humidity - 61 % by misting every time it drops below 50 %

Plants - none only fake until I get a new cage.

Placement - next to a wall in my bedroom, no vents or fans.





Problem - How many mealworms should I be giving it. Is it to much. What are your schedules.

 

[GabeCastro]

Hey and welcome to the forums!

Sounds like you got a good knowledge of what you're doing so far.

Just a few things i'd like to chime in on.

For your misting, be sure you let the entire cage dry out before each misting. I usually do 4 mistings a day for 3 minutes each at 3 hours apart.

If you leave the cage damp/too humid all day thats heaven for respiratory infection, as well as fungus/bacteria.

If you're trying to boost your humidity up, be sure to add a few live plants in the cage. A few i'd recommend are Ficus Benjamins, Hanging Pothos, and Umbrella Plants.

Also having a Dripper will boost up your humidity alittle aswell. This also helps your cham drink if you never see him drink from leaves when you mist him. As for my situation, my cham doesn't do this so i have to provide him a dripper...But i see you have one so you shouldn't have a problem.

As for mealworms, stay away from those. Their exoskeleton is pretty thick and hard to digest for chams. you can feed him those for now, but try to stay away from them. I usually fed my cham mealies when they molted (shed), they'll look a bit white when the molt.

Some feeders i'd suggest are small brown crickets, small dubias roaches, small hornworms, small silkworms, calcium worms, small/medium sized superworms, butterworms, and the occasinonal waxworm (Only feed 1-2 a week, this will help them build fat ). Feeder variety is key!!! Chams get tired of eating the same thing over and over again. Also stay away from "treat" insects, they can go on food strikes and wont eat for weeks. (Superworms, waxworms, and mealworms just to name a few). Usually the rule of thumb for crickets are the length shouldn't be longer than the width of the chams head. (eye to eye).

Here's another great blog written by a veterinarian about cricket keeping:

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/ferretinmyshoes/734-crickets-101.html

Also be sure you understand about gutloading your crickets/dubia roaches. Here's a great blog about gutloading. Be sure you read up on it.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html

Be sure to dust these insects properly aswell. Calcium w/NO D3 everyday, Herptivite Multivitamin the 1st & 3rd Sunday of the month, and Calcium w/D3 the 2nd & last sunday of the month. This makes it easy to remember Calcium w/d3 2x a month and Herptivite multivitamin 2x a month. When you dust them, just put allittle in a cup/bag and shake them up. you don't want your insects to be drenched in the supplements, just enough that they look "dusted".

lastly, LIGHTING. your basking temps are a bit high, but veiled are required to have a high basking spot. Not sure on the age of your cham, but he should be fine at super low 90's. Also be sure the bulb is atleast 8-10 inches away from his basking perch. He may get burns And for UVB, you need a UVB light. UVB rays don't transfer through glass, so be sure to pick up a zoomed reptisun 5.0 UVB tube. Or you can get the 5.0 coil ones for now since you got the double dome emitters, i've heard they improved those compact bulbs allot.

If i missed anything, hopefully a member will chime in and help me out

-Gabe