NEED help chameleons not eating !

[Briee]

Hello! I’ll jump on later so do a deeper dive on the in the info you provided. Two things real quick. Don’t let ambient temps go above 76. Don’t feed it tongs it can hurt their tongues.

Do you have vet apts set up? Fecal checks for parasites?

Be on later!

Great and thanks!
I use the plastic tong does it also hurt?
And I don't have vet apts set up yet, the person who answered my call said I should bring the chams to the place first, and Rhode Island only has a few exotic vet and I'm not sure which one to go for.

 

[CalamityCrow]

Usually fecal checks aren't more than like $25. They may have wanted to charge a vet checkup fee as well, which isn't a bad idea to do. Can I ask how much you paid for them and what they quoted you for a fecal test? Unfortunately, even captive bred chams can have parasites, ESPECIALLY if they were at a reptile show. I'd highly suggest a test anyway.

And yes, tongs of any sort risk hurting their tongues. If you're going to hand-feed, I'd hold the insects in your fingers instead. Otherwise, a feeder cup or a feeder run, or putting them on a branch near your cham is ideal. An injured tongue can, in certain circumstances, mean death for your cham, and CERTAINLY stress to you.

 

[Briee]

Usually fecal checks aren't more than like $25. They may have wanted to charge a vet checkup fee as well, which isn't a bad idea to do. Can I ask how much you paid for them and what they quoted you for a fecal test? Unfortunately, even captive bred chams can have parasites, ESPECIALLY if they were at a reptile show. I'd highly suggest a test anyway.

And yes, tongs of any sort risk hurting their tongues. If you're going to hand-feed, I'd hold the insects in your fingers instead. Otherwise, a feeder cup or a feeder run, or putting them on a branch near your cham is ideal. An injured tongue can, in certain circumstances, mean death for your cham, and CERTAINLY stress to you.

Got it! They said I bring my cham there and they would charge me 190 bucks for a complete checkup, and I might call them again tomorrow to just ask for the fecal check apt.
And gosh I am gonna just feed them with their hands from today! The feeder will take them forever to eat...
thank you

 

[CalamityCrow]

Got it! They said I bring my cham there and they would charge me 190 bucks for a complete checkup, and I might call them again tomorrow to just ask for the fecal check apt.
And gosh I am gonna just feed them with their hands from today! The feeder will take them forever to eat...
thank you

190 bucks for a checkup?!?!? Holy CRAP that's expensive! Most places charge like... 50-100ish plus an additional 20- MAYBE 50 for a fecal. 190 sounds like an emergency vet visit, not a normal scheduled one.

 

[elizaann2]

And I asked my vendor who sold me the two cham, he said he haven't done a parasite check, but he said he got them from a chameleons breeder, Dans Chameleons, and they are CBB.
I called the local vet in RI about doing a fecal check, but doing such a check caused as much as my chameleons. I don't know if it is super important to check for it or I could trust the two Cham are safe by knowing where they came from.(CBB is less likely to have parasite maybe)? Want to hear about your opinion... Let me know!

I have never heard of Dan's Chameleons. I looked at the website briefly and if I found the right one he has a lot of different chams, they COULD be CB but with the wide variety on the website I also wouldn't be surprised if they are wild caught either.

Now this next bit I want to inform you I am not intending to hurt any feelings. I simply am asking some questions to maybe get you thinking a little bit.

Unfortunately Jackson's chameleons and Veiled chameleons are often found at very cheap prices. Because they are cheap many are not willing to take them to the vet. They are your chameleons and are in your care, and ultimately it is your decision. These chameleons did not ask to be in captivity, to be put in a cage and to be sold cheaply at expos. Because they are a cheap animal does that mean they do not deserve medical care should they need it? I would challenge you to find the value in these animals beyond the price you paid for them. If taken care of properly and given medical care when needed your chameleons have the possibility of living long happy lives, but you will have to invest money into them for that to happen. Again, something to think about, I am happy to process this with you if you are open to the conversation.

 

[elizaann2]

Ok see my responses in bold:

Temperature/humidity:
The basking spot is around 80, the environment temperature is between 72-78, and the humidity is around 30 in the daytime. Perfect except as I mentioned earlier, ambient temp shouldnt go higher than 76 degrees. Jackson's have a temporal gland in their mouth that, if kept at higher ambient temps, will develop an infection and once they get a temporal gland infection they are more susceptible to them in the future.
But in the night time, the temperature i dropped to 60-65f by opening the windows. The humidity still not reached 80, only around 40-60. (with fogger on for the entire night and a full misting for 5 minutes after lights off). That is a great start! 80% humidity at night is great tbh.


Current status of my Two Chameleons:
The male now(see the photo of him and its fecal) eats one to two bugs per day , I found he didn't eat from the feeder, If your male is an adult (12 mo or older) he should be eating 2-3 feeders every other day.
I need to use a tongue to let it see the bugs, and sometimes he would only eat worms(superworms or hornworms), it shows no interest in dubia or cricket as i tried to give to him first. I tried to feed it more bugs, but it just didn't eat more. Again, if he is an adult (remind me of their ages??) he should be eating every other day. Daily feedings he is most likely not very hungry and may become a picky eater. Superworms are high in fat and are a treat bug. Hornworms are basically water balloons. Keep trying with the other bugs and hopefully he will start eating more of a variety. I wouldn't do tongs. They can hurt a chameleons tongue. If you don't let go from pinching the bug at the perfect time it can hurt their tongues and thats one of the concerns. If feeding him is difficult I would try cup feeding him, try a feeder run, hand feeding him or using a shooting gallery.

The female kind of troubles me more(also please look at her photos). She sometimes didn't eat for one day, and she didn't eat cricket or dubia, nor eat from the feeders. she is more likely to eat worms run in the cage, and close to her, or she would eat bugs I give to her with the tongue when she seems to be quite hungry. I saw she didn't move from the place a lot, does it mean she still feel stressed out? From her fecal there are still yellow folicles with the poop, looking alright. I'm not sure on this one. The pics you shared she for sure has stressed colors so something is going on. Try covering the other side of her enclosure with something to give her a little more privacy. Both chameleons may need more plant coverage as well, you basically want full coverage of plants in the middle/bottom of the enclosure so they can hide when feeling insecure. (attaching a pic of one of my enclosures for example)

I checked the UV index(shown in the pictures below), ranging from the max 420 to around min 100 as I measured from the highest point in the cage. I'm not sure what these measurements are. Are you using a solarmeter?


Now I still think the chameleons feel stressed out, so I want to ask for any suggestions to make them feel better and eat more? They may still be settling in, I would try different ways to feed them like a shooting gallery. Your girl if she is not moving from the spot she is in, if you give her more plant coverage and she still wont move or eat you may need to take her to the vet because something may be going on like a parasite load.
And should I change to a completely sealed glass cage cuz the humidity is still below 80 in the night?(or better ways to raise up the humidity levels)? I think you are fine tbh. I would look into some corruplast plastic sheets to cover the sides with to help them feel more secure.

 

[elizaann2]

190 bucks for a checkup?!?!? Holy CRAP that's expensive! Most places charge like... 50-100ish plus an additional 20- MAYBE 50 for a fecal. 190 sounds like an emergency vet visit, not a normal scheduled one.

Ya I agree, are they charging for both chams? That was my thought. If I do a check up and fecal its 75 for the visit and 60 for the fecal...which has to be sent out to a lab so thats why its so expensive....so ....maybe not that far off from what you may pay. I'd maybe check around for other vet options too.

 

[elizaann2]

Ok I am off to bed, I'll check in again in the morning and see what else I can do to support.

 

[Beman]

@JacksJill can you look at the OP's post here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/need-help-chameleons-not-eating.192158/post-1794927
Is the female passing slugs?

 

[JacksJill]

Yes, those are slugs or unfertilized ova. I don't like that odd shaped one. I would watch her closely. She may not eat for a day but her appetite should pick up quickly after that. Give her plenty of opportunities to drink with a dripper or hand misting.

 

[Briee]

Ya I agree, are they charging for both chams? That was my thought. If I do a check up and fecal its 75 for the visit and 60 for the fecal...which has to be sent out to a lab so thats why its so expensive....so ....maybe not that far off from what you may pay. I'd maybe check around for other vet options too.

Gotcha, I am checking around other vet , and their apt are booked up till March.. I might check for more later, and I think I should do a complete check for the female especially.

 

[Briee]

I have never heard of Dan's Chameleons. I looked at the website briefly and if I found the right one he has a lot of different chams, they COULD be CB but with the wide variety on the website I also wouldn't be surprised if they are wild caught either.

Now this next bit I want to inform you I am not intending to hurt any feelings. I simply am asking some questions to maybe get you thinking a little bit.

Unfortunately Jackson's chameleons and Veiled chameleons are often found at very cheap prices. Because they are cheap many are not willing to take them to the vet. They are your chameleons and are in your care, and ultimately it is your decision. These chameleons did not ask to be in captivity, to be put in a cage and to be sold cheaply at expos. Because they are a cheap animal does that mean they do not deserve medical care should they need it? I would challenge you to find the value in these animals beyond the price you paid for them. If taken care of properly and given medical care when needed your chameleons have the possibility of living long happy lives, but you will have to invest money into them for that to happen. Again, something to think about, I am happy to process this with you if you are open to the conversation.

I agree with you totally here, and the price doesn’t mean anything to the “value” of any species of chameleon( especially the panther Chameleons are way too high in price ), the value of life should be equal imo. I have been looking for vet available for a regular check, for the worst case I have to bring them to the emergency department. Thank you for providing me so much help! Glad to know you’re serious about chameleons!

 

[Briee]

Ok see my responses in bold:

Temperature/humidity:
The basking spot is around 80, the environment temperature is between 72-78, and the humidity is around 30 in the daytime. Perfect except as I mentioned earlier, ambient temp shouldnt go higher than 76 degrees. Jackson's have a temporal gland in their mouth that, if kept at higher ambient temps, will develop an infection and once they get a temporal gland infection they are more susceptible to them in the future.
But in the night time, the temperature i dropped to 60-65f by opening the windows. The humidity still not reached 80, only around 40-60. (with fogger on for the entire night and a full misting for 5 minutes after lights off). That is a great start! 80% humidity at night is great tbh.


Current status of my Two Chameleons:
The male now(see the photo of him and its fecal) eats one to two bugs per day , I found he didn't eat from the feeder, If your male is an adult (12 mo or older) he should be eating 2-3 feeders every other day.
I need to use a tongue to let it see the bugs, and sometimes he would only eat worms(superworms or hornworms), it shows no interest in dubia or cricket as i tried to give to him first. I tried to feed it more bugs, but it just didn't eat more. Again, if he is an adult (remind me of their ages??) he should be eating every other day. Daily feedings he is most likely not very hungry and may become a picky eater. Superworms are high in fat and are a treat bug. Hornworms are basically water balloons. Keep trying with the other bugs and hopefully he will start eating more of a variety. I wouldn't do tongs. They can hurt a chameleons tongue. If you don't let go from pinching the bug at the perfect time it can hurt their tongues and thats one of the concerns. If feeding him is difficult I would try cup feeding him, try a feeder run, hand feeding him or using a shooting gallery.

The female kind of troubles me more(also please look at her photos). She sometimes didn't eat for one day, and she didn't eat cricket or dubia, nor eat from the feeders. she is more likely to eat worms run in the cage, and close to her, or she would eat bugs I give to her with the tongue when she seems to be quite hungry. I saw she didn't move from the place a lot, does it mean she still feel stressed out? From her fecal there are still yellow folicles with the poop, looking alright. I'm not sure on this one. The pics you shared she for sure has stressed colors so something is going on. Try covering the other side of her enclosure with something to give her a little more privacy. Both chameleons may need more plant coverage as well, you basically want full coverage of plants in the middle/bottom of the enclosure so they can hide when feeling insecure. (attaching a pic of one of my enclosures for example)

I checked the UV index(shown in the pictures below), ranging from the max 420 to around min 100 as I measured from the highest point in the cage. I'm not sure what these measurements are. Are you using a solarmeter?


Now I still think the chameleons feel stressed out, so I want to ask for any suggestions to make them feel better and eat more? They may still be settling in, I would try different ways to feed them like a shooting gallery. Your girl if she is not moving from the spot she is in, if you give her more plant coverage and she still wont move or eat you may need to take her to the vet because something may be going on like a parasite load.
And should I change to a completely sealed glass cage cuz the humidity is still below 80 in the night?(or better ways to raise up the humidity levels)? I think you are fine tbh. I would look into some corruplast plastic sheets to cover the sides with to help them feel more

Thanks!
So according to my vendor they are about 1 year old, so they might be already adult.

And Yes, I will give them more privacy putting in more plants and I have already used a black fabric covered her cage. Finger crossed she is just feel stressed out and will gets more used to it.
The male is very good now, he eats more recently as I feed him every other day.

I use a quite cheap solarmeter, I will attach a photo here with the reading.

 

[elizaann2]

Gotcha, I am checking around other vet , and their apt are booked up till March.. I might check for more later, and I think I should do a complete check for the female especially.

Do they have a cancelation list?

 

[elizaann2]

Thanks!
So according to my vendor they are about 1 year old, so they might be already adult.

And Yes, I will give them more privacy putting in more plants and I have already used a black fabric covered her cage. Finger crossed she is just feel stressed out and will gets more used to it.
The male is very good now, he eats more recently as I feed him every other day.

I use a quite cheap solarmeter, I will attach a photo here with the reading.

I’m sorry I’m not helpful with your solar meter readings I’m used to the one I have. I’m going to tag @Beman who knows a LOT about UVB and see if she can help with that.

 

[Beman]

Yeah I can not help with that one. @nightanole would be able to figure out what that solarmeter is actually saying per the UVI level.

 

[Briee]

Do they have a cancelation list?

No, i didn't see the two vets in my area don't have the list on their websites.

 

[elizaann2]

No, i didn't see the two vets in my area don't have the list on their websites.

Darn.

 

[nightanole]

Thanks!
So according to my vendor they are about 1 year old, so they might be already adult.

And Yes, I will give them more privacy putting in more plants and I have already used a black fabric covered her cage. Finger crossed she is just feel stressed out and will gets more used to it.
The male is very good now, he eats more recently as I feed him every other day.

I use a quite cheap solarmeter, I will attach a photo here with the reading.

Its not thats its a cheap meter. Its the fact its a UVB meter and not a UVI meter. There is no direct conversion, but rule of thumb is 40:1. So yours says 109, so thats almost 3 UVI, which is on the money.