Ok see my responses in bold:
Temperature/humidity:
The basking spot is around 80, the environment temperature is between 72-78, and the humidity is around 30 in the daytime. Perfect except as I mentioned earlier, ambient temp shouldnt go higher than 76 degrees. Jackson's have a temporal gland in their mouth that, if kept at higher ambient temps, will develop an infection and once they get a temporal gland infection they are more susceptible to them in the future.
But in the night time, the temperature i dropped to 60-65f by opening the windows. The humidity still not reached 80, only around 40-60. (with fogger on for the entire night and a full misting for 5 minutes after lights off). That is a great start! 80% humidity at night is great tbh.
Current status of my Two Chameleons:
The male now(see the photo of him and its fecal) eats one to two bugs per day , I found he didn't eat from the feeder, If your male is an adult (12 mo or older) he should be eating 2-3 feeders every other day.
I need to use a tongue to let it see the bugs, and sometimes he would only eat worms(superworms or hornworms), it shows no interest in dubia or cricket as i tried to give to him first. I tried to feed it more bugs, but it just didn't eat more. Again, if he is an adult (remind me of their ages??) he should be eating every other day. Daily feedings he is most likely not very hungry and may become a picky eater. Superworms are high in fat and are a treat bug. Hornworms are basically water balloons. Keep trying with the other bugs and hopefully he will start eating more of a variety. I wouldn't do tongs. They can hurt a chameleons tongue. If you don't let go from pinching the bug at the perfect time it can hurt their tongues and thats one of the concerns. If feeding him is difficult I would try cup feeding him, try a feeder run, hand feeding him or using a shooting gallery.
The female kind of troubles me more(also please look at her photos). She sometimes didn't eat for one day, and she didn't eat cricket or dubia, nor eat from the feeders. she is more likely to eat worms run in the cage, and close to her, or she would eat bugs I give to her with the tongue when she seems to be quite hungry. I saw she didn't move from the place a lot, does it mean she still feel stressed out? From her fecal there are still yellow folicles with the poop, looking alright. I'm not sure on this one. The pics you shared she for sure has stressed colors so something is going on. Try covering the other side of her enclosure with something to give her a little more privacy. Both chameleons may need more plant coverage as well, you basically want full coverage of plants in the middle/bottom of the enclosure so they can hide when feeling insecure. (attaching a pic of one of my enclosures for example)
I checked the UV index(shown in the pictures below), ranging from the max 420 to around min 100 as I measured from the highest point in the cage. I'm not sure what these measurements are. Are you using a solarmeter?
Now I still think the chameleons feel stressed out, so I want to ask for any suggestions to make them feel better and eat more? They may still be settling in, I would try different ways to feed them like a shooting gallery. Your girl if she is not moving from the spot she is in, if you give her more plant coverage and she still wont move or eat you may need to take her to the vet because something may be going on like a parasite load.
And should I change to a completely sealed glass cage cuz the humidity is still below 80 in the night?(or better ways to raise up the humidity levels)? I think you are fine tbh. I would look into some corruplast plastic sheets to cover the sides with to help them feel more
