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The terrarium you are keeping them in is fine. The fogger would be great if you could start it before the lights come on in the morning so you get that foggy morning effect and turn it off when the spot light comes on. Humidity is critical for baby chameleons! Of course, there is such thing as too much humidity and having that terrarium fogged up the entire day is pushing it. I would do the fogger in the morning as described and then use a misting bottle two times during the day. The misting bottle gives them drinking opportunities. You are right to be watching that humidity closely.
We on the forums can offer our experience, but we are not there. What is the room humidity? If you are in Washington DC I can only guess that it is very cold and the room you are in is heated. If the humidity in the room is low then a solid wall enclosure (like your terrarium) is exactly what you should be doing. You may have to run that fogger more often depending on your ambient RH.
Here are your consideration points:
1) Make sure the cage has a chance to dry out. There is a difference between humidity and everything being constantly wet.
2) Be meticulous about cleaning that cage! You now have 7 poop machines. Poop + water = bacteria soup.
3) Be obsessive about keeping that fogger (ultrasonic humidifier) clean. The last thing you need is to aerosol-ize marinating poop! Know that chameleons target water and food dishes to poop in just like pigeons target cars. I don't know how they do it. They just do.
4) Watch your temperature drop at night. Jackson's are okay with a temperature drop, though. If you have a nice upper 70s (F) day temp then you can easily go into the lows 60s (F) night temp. They can go deeper than that, but you are then starting to weed out the weaker ones. While that is good nature management policy it tends to wreck our human hearts.
5) Be very mindful of the ones that do not seem to be eating. It will take a couple days for them to get into the groove of eating, but then they should be all over anything that moves. And this is where the natural competition sets in. The smaller/weaker ones should be separated to give them a chance. I have had wonderful specimens come from the weaker ones I have separated and held back. They just need a little more chance at the beginning!
6) fruit flies and pin head crickets are now your friends. You will need many.
It is difficult being surprised like this and all of a sudden having more mouths to feed. But raising up these mini-tree dragons from birth is one of the most fascinating and amazing things to go through! It looks like you are getting good responses from your babies. Your next challenge, once the eating/watering is established, is separating them. This is where those 48" T-8 fluorescent bulbs come in handy. You can put a lot of smaller cages under them to separate the babies out. They will do much better in their own rooms. Although most keepers keep them together for two to three months you will get better results separately. When/if you separate them is up to you. You can delay having to separate them by having copious hiding spaces and an abundance of food
Bill
how are the babies doing?
I'm by no means an expert, but have experience raising a Jackson's from birth. I work at a Petsmart, and our female Jackson's had babies one day so we had to get them separated and adopted quickly. Of the 8 born, one died almost immediately (there was an issue whilst breaking through the amniotic sac), I took two, another associate took two, and our petcare manager took three.
Unfortunately, out of the 7 remaining, only 3 survived to today (just past 5 months old). I have one remaining, and the other manager has 2. The one that died on me died within the first two weeks....I was worried that he or she was not eating properly, and the next morning I found him or her on the bottom of the cage, eyes closed and lifeless.
Now, some observations.
First of all, from personal experience and communication with the others, the babies would regularly climb the screen to get directly below the UVB light. This happened in the store, under my care, and other the care of the two others, so I'm not sure this is much cause for concern.
Fruit flies are a royal pain to deal with, so if you can get your hands on some pinhead crickets it will offer some variety and make monitoring feeding a bit easier if using a cup. I know there is controversy concerning cup feeding, but it is an easy way to monitor eating habits.
As taken from "The Chameleon Handbook" by Francois Le Berre (pp 106):
I suspect too low a humidity is what claimed my other baby.
As babies, they of course will shed more regularly so a high humidity will aid in clean shedding. Mine shed very quickly and in some instances I wouldn't have known except for traces of shed on his plant.
Be prepared to separate them as they get older and begin claiming territory.
Good luck and keep the forum updated!
Just for posterity, here's my little one, Simcoe, at 5 months