Newbie, Hello Everybody!

nolfoc

nolfoc

New Member
Hello everybody, i just wanted to say I have been reading this forums for a few days now and decided that i need to become part of this community!... These pics of Chameleons are beautiful in some of these members albums.. I am truly jealous and hope one day I can have a new addition to my family as well. I do have some questions, I've noticed that a lot of members are from warm states; i.e. Florida and California, I live in NY and was wondering if it will be a problem with the climate changes with the 4 seasons that we get up here, spring and summer time, ac is usually running and in the winter the heat is usually on, both when i get home from work.. I have spoke to a local reptile store about what i need to get started and i felt very confused by everything and had a feeling he was just trying to sell me the world because he new i was a rookie.. cane someone please tell me what do i need to get started and roughly about how much budget wise. Also if it is possible to keep a Chameleon alive because of my weather situation.

I just want to also add I am every excited and looking forward to everybody's amazing input! thanks again!

-Chris
 
hey Chris yes it is very possible to house a chameleon in your area i come from Washington state and it is the same thing here as far as supplies it differs a little bit with species so what kind of cham are you wanting to get?
 
franticurchin said:
hey Chris yes it is very possible to house a chameleon in your area i come from Washington state and it is the same thing here as far as supplies it differs a little bit with species so what kind of cham are you wanting to get?
Click to expand...

im thinking a panther but i love the look of the veiled, but i came across this on the internet, does anyone know what type of breed this is? and also which breed is the hardiest.

duda_chameleon.jpg
 
welcome to forum chris, i am also a greeny (fresh fish) and this site has been a great source of information and support.
 
panther and vields are what most people new to chams get and they are not hard at all.
supply list: all screen cage 18x18x36 female 24x24x48 male with no substrate, live plants helps with humidity, fake plants and vines or branches, digital humidity and temp gauge, a driper, linear reptisun 5.0 uvb bulb and fixture, dome fixture and standard house hold light non florescent prob 60w, spray bottle, calcium with d3, calcium without d3, multivitamin, and feeders
 
imo that is the bare min for a cham and you will prob want to get a few more things other than that if you cant be with your cham all day long
 
chendy said:
welcome to forum chris, i am also a greeny (fresh fish) and this site has been a great source of information and support.
Click to expand...

thanks! im excited and a little nervous, i have been a salt water fish hobbyist for a long time, and very excited to get my first Chameleon

franticurchin said:
panther and vields are what most people new to chams get and they are not hard at all.
supply list: all screen cage 18x18x36 female 24x24x48 male with no substrate, live plants helps with humidity, fake plants and vines or branches, digital humidity and temp gauge, a driper, linear reptisun 5.0 uvb bulb and fixture, dome fixture and standard house hold light non florescent prob 60w, spray bottle, calcium with d3, calcium without d3, multivitamin, and feeders
Click to expand...

what ratio of live to fake plants would you have? also is their any specific type of live plant taht is better? do they sell them at the reptile stores or should i get them a nursery that sells plants?
 
franticurchin said:
imo that is the bare min for a cham and you will prob want to get a few more things other than that if you cant be with your cham all day long
Click to expand...

im pretty much out of the house at work from 730-630ish 5 days a week.. should i have the lights on a timer? and should i leave the 12 hours on during the day or night?
 
i use a umbrella plant that i got from home depot but if you get a live plant change the soil with organic and yes wash the old off the roots and then wash the leaves too. these are not the only type of plant but if you did a search on this sight i know that there is a safe and unsafe list
 
two things that you are gonna want to get if you cant be with him all day is going to be a timer 12 on 12 off i like to have the 12 on start 1 hour after there is light out side. also you are gonna want to get a automatic mister i like the mist king it is from a sight sponsor and better than anything i have seen or used from a pet store. imo money well spent
 
franticurchin said:
two things that you are gonna want to get if you cant be with him all day is going to be a timer 12 on 12 off i like to have the 12 on start 1 hour after there is light out side. also you are gonna want to get a automatic mister i like the mist king it is from a sight sponsor and better than anything i have seen or used from a pet store. imo money well spent
Click to expand...

i will check it out.. also what substrate would you recommend for the bottom

is this a good one

http://www.mistking.com/Starter-Misting-System-MKMSN-NEW.html
 
Here is some information and a few websites that I hope you will find useful...
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
kinyonga said:
Here is some information and a few websites that I hope you will find useful...
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Click to expand...

this is great! thank you
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Advice needed.
2
Replies
23
Views
407
kinyonga
K
Spikemomma
Some Spike love!! He says hello everyone 💚
Replies
2
Views
175
GrannyK
GrannyK
S
Newbie here, Hello everyone 👋
Replies
9
Views
387
elizaann2
elizaann2
kelseymaire
Newbie! Please help!
2 3
Replies
44
Views
1K
isaiah33
I
Zstewart823
My panther always wants out of his enclosure!!
Replies
2
Views
470
MissSkittles
MissSkittles
Back
Top Bottom