Just translated, as good and quick as it can get. I think it´s very interesting to read we´re all at same frequency regarding husbandry.
Name:
Bohemian two-horned chameleon or Taita two-horned chameleon.
Distribution:
The Usambara Mountains represent only part of the range of the two-horned chameleon. They live along the remnants of the approximately 30 million year old mountain primeval forests of the so-called Eastern Arc, which is located in the border area between Kenya and the Chyulu Hills, Mount Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru, the Taita Hills, North Pare, South Pare, the West and East Usambara Mountains, Nguu, Nguru and Uluguru. Unfortunately, these virgin forests are also under severe threat. They suffered especially after the massive logging among others by the Germans, who maintained a colony in Tanzania, because the climate in the Usambara Mountains is very pleasant. It does not get warmer than 86°C all year round, with temperatures dropping to 59-63° at night.
Description:
Males of Kinyongia Boehmei bear two, distinct, faux horns, while these are faint to absent in females. Kinyongia Boehmei is one of the smaller chameleon species. The male can reach a total length of up to 8 inch, while the females remain slightly smaller.
Habitats:
Kinyongia Boehmei lives in trees, shrubs and grasses and is often found in groups along roadsides. Mostly live in the outskirts of forests and retreat into the forest only for oviposition, because there the eggs are apparently subject to much better conditions.
Keeping in terrarium and breeding:
I have kept Kinyongia Boehmei, separately, for a long time in generous 24x24x48 (WxDxH) ReptiBreeze screenterrariums in the basement. However, breeders and other keepers have confirmed to me that also the dimensions 18x18x36 (one size smaller) are completely sufficient. In the meantime this also confirms my experiences. From a well-known carpenter I have had planting boxes cut to size. The result is impressive. I filled the planters first with Seramis granules and then, separated by a tile, with potting soil/sand/coconut humus. Then I planted Schefflera and monocot, Asparagus species and, as a specimen plant, a Portuguese cherry laurel. To create additional climbing opportunities, I spread branches from a corkscrew weeping willow in the terrarium and supplemented them with a few twigs from the garden. Driftwood from the Rhine and moss I brought in to make the ground look as detailed as possible like forest soil. The terrariums are in the basement directly under a tilting window. I can ensure the night reduction to 57-61° in the cool season by opening the window. On hot summer days I use my air conditioner to get at least to 63°. When feeding I noticed that Kinyongia Boehmei does not seem to touch crickets or similar food. The situation is different with Drosophila, flies and wax moths. Therefore I give only these alternately with Korvimin, calcium powder or grated cuttlebone suplementiert. Now and then I powder the flies also additionally with flower pollen. They are fed 3-5 times a week, because flies are not as nutritious as crickets/chickadees and the like.
I have set up the technology as follows: 2x 50w UV metal halide lamps and 2x 24w-T5 full spectrum daylight tubes provide good lighting and the temperature of 75-79° in the upper part. Now and then I illuminate manually additionally with an Osram Vitalux 300w lamp around also times temperatures up to 82°C to produce to be able. I spray 2x daily - morning and evening. On weekends also times at noon
As soon as the daytime temperatures reach 24°C and stay above 14°C at night, my chameleons move outside into the garden. The terrarium is in the shade the whole day. Only in the morning the rising sun shines directly into the enclosure. This is always gladly accepted by the animals. Kinyongia is innerart very sociable compared to other chameleons where the animals are subject to permanent stress if they are kept together. Nevertheless I don't recommend to keep them together, because the females have a permanent eye on the male and obviously are not relaxed. For the mating you put the animals together and separate them after the corpulation again, so that the female has rest. The animals develop the eggs in about 2 months and always retreat near the ground and start digging holes before laying. It gives the impression that they are doing trial work to locate the best spot. During this time I put blankets over the terrarium so the female is not stressed and can lay in peace. The oviposition takes place under the ground, usually in a tunnel. Afterwards the mother closes the tunnel with soil and camouflages the pit with leaves from the terrarium. Depending on the temperature (61-71°) the young hatch after 6-12 months and are immediately independent in the terrarium. Then it is better to separate them from the mother. The young animals can be raised like the adults, but in groups. Frequent spraying and feeding with aphids, springtails, drosophila and micro crickets is then the order of the day, so that the young thrive well.
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. Just amazing and unbelievable how long she retained sperm. Curious how many you will find at the end. Also great to read that nature just does her thing, where bioactive isn’t good for 
@jamest0o0
