Plant lighting + other questions.

Crusader14 said:
I’m honestly not sure what bioactive even means so idk. I mostly use substrate from biodude and springtails for eating the poop. If that counts as bio active, then yes. And yes I’m new to keeping a cham. I have a baby veiled; not sure about his age but I’m positive he’s a dude because when I bought him I specifically asked for a male.
Click to expand...
Ok. That clarifies it for me. Thanks!
You are kinda bioactive but not really. I know the theory behind it but am yet to dip my toes in that water.
I’m a relatively inexperienced keeper but am going to make some suggestions. First, remove all of the substrate down to bare cage bottom. Put it in a bin or something and set it aside for now. If you wish to go truly bioactive, there’s more to it than just substrate and springtails. I’ll let one of the bioactive keepers help you on the proper set up.
Second, let’s do a full review of your husbandry. This is always the best way to catch those little things that can become big nasty things. I’m providing the form...copy and paste. May want to start a fresh thread with it though.
Btw, yes you do have a male. :) I’m not good at aging, but I’d guess he’s a juvenile maybe?

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
I mean that form is for the health clinic isnt it? I don't think ill make another thread but ill fill it out so people can help answer my questions better


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Veiled Chameleon, Male, age unknown. I have had him for a little over a month now.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I read that veileds dont like to be handled very much so the amount of handling i do is very little.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Superworms, and Mealworms. I put 10 to 12 crickets in the cage, and give him 10 to 12 more when he finishes eating them all, which can take 48 to 72 hours. I put 6 dubia roaches and 3 superworms/mealworms in a glass bowl and prop it on his sticks to eat as well. He seems to like crickets more though. I use biodude's bug grub to gut load, and i dust with calcium before I put anything in there.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Zoo Med Calcium Powder and Zilla Calcium Spray.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I use this sprayer, and I spray twice a day for up to 5 minutes per session.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The coloring is pretty consistent; I haven't seen any changes.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? It is a screen aluminium cage. Dimensions are 24x24x48 inches.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I currently use the zoo med tropical lighting kit + an incandescent bulb for additional heat.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? I try to keep the temperature no lower 70 degrees, but aim to have it at least at 75 most of the time. The lowest temp drop has probably been in the mid 60s. I use an analog thermometer + hygrometer
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? It is unfortunately very hard for me to maintain the humidity, even with my vigorous spraying. I have two sides of the enclosure wrapped in plastic + towels, but even then the humidity still manages to stay relatively dry. Most of the time, even with the towels and plastic wrap, average humidity is about a consistent 30 to 40 percent.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I have a ficus tree nad some fake pothos, but I would like to get more plants, both live and fake, but im not sure which ones would be suitable, which is partly why i made this thread to find out how i can better care for my plants and to see what new additions in plants i could add to the enclosure. i also would like to figure out if it is necessary for me to repot my ficus or if i just need stronger lighting.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? I have my cage in my room. It is on the opposite side of any fans and windows. My room is towards the back of the house so its far away from any traffic.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? I live in the desert, near Palm Springs, California.
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Basically I'm just concerned about lighting and how I can help my plant grow because it is at the bottom of the enclosure and it feels like it isn't getting adaquete enough lighting. I want to know if i need to use non dome lamp fixtures or if i just need a better light bulb, and i also want suggestions about other plants, how i can keep my dubia roaches from burrowing in the substrate and hiding from feeding, as well as the worms. i suppose id also like suggestions with humidity as well, how to maintain it and whatnot.
 
Thank you! I’ll put my feedback in red on those things that I am confident I can comment on. If I’m wrong or leave anything out, hopefully another member will correct. Yes, this is the health form but is the best way to review husbandry.
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Veiled Chameleon, Male, age unknown. I have had him for a little over a month now.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I read that veileds dont like to be handled very much so the amount of handling i do is very little. Perfect! :)
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Superworms, and Mealworms. I put 10 to 12 crickets in the cage, and give him 10 to 12 more when he finishes eating them all, which can take 48 to 72 hours. I put 6 dubia roaches and 3 superworms/mealworms in a glass bowl and prop it on his sticks to eat as well. He seems to like crickets more though. I use biodude's bug grub to gut load, and i dust with calcium before I put anything in there. Good variety, but get rid of the mealworms. They’re hard to digest and just not a good feeder for chams. You could add fresh organic fruits, veggies and leafy things to your gutloading to pass on extra nutrition. I’ll attach a gutloading info sheet. Not sure about the amount/frequency...sounds off to me. It’s a bit odd that it would take 2-3 days for him to eat 10-12 feeders. Until he’s fully mature, he should really be eating daily.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Zoo Med Calcium Powder and Zilla Calcium Spray. There are two methods of supplementation. Phosphorus free calcium with no D3 lightly dusted at each feeding, phos free calcium with vitamin D3 one feeding every other week, alternating with a multivitamin. OR Repashy brand calcium with LoD dusted on every feeding and no other supplementation required.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I use this sprayer, and I spray twice a day for up to 5 minutes per session. Perfect! :)
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? The coloring is pretty consistent; I haven't seen any changes. It’s always a good idea to have his feces tested for parasites.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? It is a screen aluminium cage. Dimensions are 24x24x48 inches. Perfect! :)
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I currently use the zoo med tropical lighting kit + an incandescent bulb for additional heat. Your chameleon has need for two different lights...a basking light and a uvb. Your incandescent bulb is what is best used for basking. You are lacking the correct uvb though. Again, the T5HO with a 5.0 uvb bulb is what you need, like I posted earlier. The fixture I linked does come with the bulb. The bulb will need to be changed every 6 months as the uvb diminishes over time. You’ll need the fixture to span the width of the enclosure, so 24”. Lights should be on a 12 hr schedule and no light at all during the night.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? I try to keep the temperature no lower 70 degrees, but aim to have it at least at 75 most of the time. The lowest temp drop has probably been in the mid 60s. I use an analog thermometer + hygrometer Basking area should be around 8” from the bulb and temp should be around 85*. They need the heat proper digestion. There should be gradients of temps and light thru out the enclosure, so your cham can choose what he wants/needs. It’s totally fine and preferred for night time temps to drop substantially for veileds.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? It is unfortunately very hard for me to maintain the humidity, even with my vigorous spraying. I have two sides of the enclosure wrapped in plastic + towels, but even then the humidity still manages to stay relatively dry. Most of the time, even with the towels and plastic wrap, average humidity is about a consistent 30 to 40 percent. Daytime humidity should be around 30-40%, so that is perfect. Too high humidity plus daytime heat can lead to upper respiratory and other health issues. At night when it’s cooler is when you want the humidity to be higher. Many use a cool mist humidifier at night. Live plants will make a big difference in maintaining humidity so the more, the better.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I have a ficus tree nad some fake pothos, but I would like to get more plants, both live and fake, but im not sure which ones would be suitable, which is partly why i made this thread to find out how i can better care for my plants and to see what new additions in plants i could add to the enclosure. i also would like to figure out if it is necessary for me to repot my ficus or if i just need stronger lighting. I’m not sure about light needs for ficus trees. Try to keep the fake plants at a minimum or even none at all is even better. Veileds nibble their plants so you have to keep their safety in mind. They can eat fake leaves and get impacted. Live Pothos are my favorite. Schefflera and all Dracaena are good as are hibiscus. An areka Palm is good and will help a lot with humidity. You’ll need to clean all plants leaves and repot in an organic soil with no additives.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? I have my cage in my room. It is on the opposite side of any fans and windows. My room is towards the back of the house so its far away from any traffic. Chams like to be high up so that we are below them...makes them feel safer. The less traffic past them, the better.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? I live in the desert, near Palm Springs, California.
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Basically I'm just concerned about lighting and how I can help my plant grow because it is at the bottom of the enclosure and it feels like it isn't getting adaquete enough lighting. I want to know if i need to use non dome lamp fixtures or if i just need a better light bulb, and i also want suggestions about other plants, how i can keep my dubia roaches from burrowing in the substrate and hiding from feeding, as well as the worms. i suppose id also like suggestions with humidity as well, how to maintain it and whatnot. I have the same sized enclosures and have had similar problems with the plants on the enclosure floor. In my dual dome I have a basking bulb and a plant bulb. I’m currently using a Sansi 15w plant bulb and it just isn’t enough. I would suggest a 24w or a 36w grow bulb. You can and should try to rig something up so that you can suspend your plants up higher. I use Dragon Strand dragon ledges (one of the sites sponsors) and love them. Some make trellis supports along the cage sides, some make stick scaffolding. If you aren’t feeling that crafty, get a cheap plant pedestal from a garden center. It’s so nice to see that you’ve got lots of branches and vines for your little guy. :) I’d maybe make some a bit higher though so he can get closer to his basking area. Also, I have the same thermometer/hygrometer as I see in your enclosure. Just FYI: they die easy. I’m told the digital ones are better.
The chameleon Breeder podcast is full of all sorts of useful info and I suggest checking it out. https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/
Hope I’ve been able to be of some help. Don’t hesitate to keep asking questions.
 
And I forgot to attach the gutloading sheet. Ugh! Brain not keeping up. :rolleyes:
D0B74FE0-DDC5-445E-8342-9BD4D78CF234.jpeg
0B6D8CA9-3B48-48DD-B7AC-AF9713B27028.jpeg
 
So, I'll add what I know, but I'm no pro:

For bioactive set up you want 4 "layers"

- First layer is rock, clay balls, etc. Somewhere for the water to drain and keep your soil from being soggy, keep your plants from getting root rot.

(Put a layer of screen over the rock to prevent the next layer from falling through)

- next layer is charcoal. I use "horticultural" charcoal. It works as a filter much like in a coffee machine, refrigerator, etc.

-next is your substrate layer. I use a mix of peat moss and some spag moss for aeration.

- within this layer, after the peat, you add your "regular soil" (or ABG mix, etc)[I make my own using organic potting soil, peralite, spag moss, bark, etc.]

- Then the final layer is "leaf litter". I personally mix in broken pieces of cork bark as well as a few bigger pieces.


Beyond that, some people add a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe so they can siphon out the extra water. @AnamCara [I think] has a drawing that is pretty good at explaining it visually.

In addition to springtails, usually you want some sort of isopod to help with cleaning. Dwarf whites are common, but I use all different types depending on the climate and what's in the cage.

As far as what plants to use and if you need to repot....

Well, that's more in the realm of plant knowledge. You want your pot to typically be bigger than the "bushiness" of your shrub. I personally use a lot of hibiscus and money tree. The money tree grows really fast so it's easy to prune and grow as you'd like. (Just be sure to keep it from blocking too much like!) I also use orchids and bromeliads, some pothos, and LOTS of the flukers vines.
 
Hashtag ChamLife said:
So, I'll add what I know, but I'm no pro:

For bioactive set up you want 4 "layers"

- First layer is rock, clay balls, etc. Somewhere for the water to drain and keep your soil from being soggy, keep your plants from getting root rot.

(Put a layer of screen over the rock to prevent the next layer from falling through)

- next layer is charcoal. I use "horticultural" charcoal. It works as a filter much like in a coffee machine, refrigerator, etc.

-next is your substrate layer. I use a mix of peat moss and some spag moss for aeration.

- within this layer, after the peat, you add your "regular soil" (or ABG mix, etc)[I make my own using organic potting soil, peralite, spag moss, bark, etc.]

- Then the final layer is "leaf litter". I personally mix in broken pieces of cork bark as well as a few bigger pieces.


Beyond that, some people add a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe so they can siphon out the extra water. @AnamCara [I think] has a drawing that is pretty good at explaining it visually.

In addition to springtails, usually you want some sort of isopod to help with cleaning. Dwarf whites are common, but I use all different types depending on the climate and what's in the cage.

As far as what plants to use and if you need to repot....

Well, that's more in the realm of plant knowledge. You want your pot to typically be bigger than the "bushiness" of your shrub. I personally use a lot of hibiscus and money tree. The money tree grows really fast so it's easy to prune and grow as you'd like. (Just be sure to keep it from blocking too much like!) I also use orchids and bromeliads, some pothos, and LOTS of the flukers vines.
Click to expand...

Nah that's @GoodKarma19 !
 
I agree with @Hashtag ChamLife, and will add my visuals. I didn't put a separate charcoal layer over the mesh, or a peat/sphagnum layer. Instead, I mixed it throughout. I'd definitely suggest diversifying your clean up crew with isopods, redwiggler compost worms, and/or detritus milipedes.

Rough "blueprint" for bioactive layers with PVC drainage layer access pipe:

20190410_032715.jpg


20190911_110522.jpg


Forgot to take a picture with the screen on top, but this is my drainage layer:

20190911_111800.jpg


I ended up using about 75% HP high porosity (very similar to Sunshine Mix #4), and the rest was orchid mix (bark, sphagnum, charcoal) and a generous helping of worm castings.

With substrate:

20190911_173342.jpg


3 months and some change in:

20191201_140749.jpg
 
GoodKarma19 said:
I agree with @Hashtag ChamLife, and will add my visuals. I didn't put a separate charcoal layer over the mesh, or a peat/sphagnum layer. Instead, I mixed it throughout. I'd definitely suggest diversifying your clean up crew with isopods, redwiggler compost worms, and/or detritus milipedes.

Rough "blueprint" for bioactive layers with PVC drainage layer access pipe:

View attachment 253619

View attachment 253620

Forgot to take a picture with the screen on top, but this is my drainage layer:

View attachment 253621

I ended up using about 75% HP high porosity (very similar to Sunshine Mix #4), and the rest was orchid mix (bark, sphagnum, charcoal) and a generous helping of worm castings.

With substrate:

View attachment 253622

3 months and some change in:

View attachment 253623
Click to expand...
Have you used the red wigglers? I'm thinking about them as I really need better soil aeration and worms are the master at it. Plus I hear the wigglers will eat the eggs of flies/gnats that lay in the soil.
Just wondering what, if any, are the adverse effects. Will they harass springtails or isopods at all? Will the breed like mad and overtake the substrate?
 
Hashtag ChamLife said:
Have you used the red wigglers? I'm thinking about them as I really need better soil aeration and worms are the master at it. Plus I hear the wigglers will eat the eggs of flies/gnats that lay in the soil.
Just wondering what, if any, are the adverse effects. Will they harass springtails or isopods at all? Will the breed like mad and overtake the substrate?
Click to expand...

I have a small colony of red wigglers in both of my builds, and they breed readily. To my knowledge they'll breed until the population can't be supported in any greater quantities, and then stabilize. I started off with about a dozen, and as they settled in I started seeing fewer gnats and phorid flies. I can't directly contribute the lessened fly population to my growing worm pop, but the timeline stacks up! The worms don't seem to be bothering with my isopods or springtails at all, and are absolutely incredible at composting! I'd wager that half of my leaf litter consumption (likely more) can be contributed to the worms. Whenever I add fresh food for the isopods/springtails/milipedes, I find a worm or two nibbling alongside them. No idea how many I have, but if I turn over the soil I'll stumble across a couple. Sometimes I can see them and their little tunnels through the glass.

They're doing well for me! I may have a different opinion in a year or two. We'll see haha!
 
GoodKarma19 said:
I have a small colony of red wigglers in both of my builds, and they breed readily. To my knowledge they'll breed until the population can't be supported in any greater quantities, and then stabilize. I started off with about a dozen, and as they settled in I started seeing fewer gnats and phorid flies. I can't directly contribute the lessened fly population to my growing worm pop, but the timeline stacks up! The worms don't seem to be bothering with my isopods or springtails at all, and are absolutely incredible at composting! I'd wager that half of my leaf litter consumption (likely more) can be contributed to the worms. Whenever I add fresh food for the isopods/springtails/milipedes, I find a worm or two nibbling alongside them. No idea how many I have, but if I turn over the soil I'll stumble across a couple. Sometimes I can see them and their little tunnels through the glass.

They're doing well for me! I may have a different opinion in a year or two. We'll see haha!
Click to expand...
Excellent... that's what I was hoping to hear!

What do you feed your springtails and isopods? I've used "Morningwood" (lol) and some Springtail food from Biodude. Wondering what all options may be better...
 
Hashtag ChamLife said:
Excellent... that's what I was hoping to hear!

What do you feed your springtails and isopods? I've used "Morningwood" (lol) and some Springtail food from Biodude. Wondering what all options may be better...
Click to expand...

My CuC is all about that Morning Wood! ;) :p

On top of that, I also feed them the occasional veggie scraps (often largely untouched until it starts to rot) and some egg shell for a bit of extra calcium. Been meaning to throw some cuttlebone in there for the isopods, but havent gotten around to it! I also stir some looseleaf tea dregs in around the plants, and the worms seem to be all over that.

If I have extra things, it goes either into the vivs or with the feeders haha!
 
GoodKarma19 said:
My CuC is all about that Morning Wood! ;) :p

On top of that, I also feed them the occasional veggie scraps (often largely untouched until it starts to rot) and some egg shell for a bit of extra calcium. Been meaning to throw some cuttlebone in there for the isopods, but havent gotten around to it! I also stir some looseleaf tea dregs in around the plants, and the worms seems to be all over that.

If I have extra things, it goes either into the vivs or with the feeders haha!
Click to expand...
Glad to see I'm on the right path!!

Here's my [unsolicited] contribution... zucchini and butternut squash ALWAYS get some action in my isopod bins. Those pretty much stay in all my insect bins as they take a good while to decay, and when they do the springtails seem to love them! It's one of the few veg I find that works for crickets, roaches [4 kinds], and about 10 species of isopods. One zucchini will go to support all my bins. One butternut will last a long time, but our bird eats that too. Speaking of, that's my source of cuttlebone remnants, hehe.

Thanks for the tips!!
 
Hashtag ChamLife said:
Glad to see I'm on the right path!!

Here's my [unsolicited] contribution... zucchini and butternut squash ALWAYS get some action in my isopod bins. Those pretty much stay in all my insect bins as they take a good while to decay, and when they do the springtails seem to love them! It's one of the few veg I find that works for crickets, roaches [4 kinds], and about 10 species of isopods. One zucchini will go to support all my bins. One butternut will last a long time, but our bird eats that too. Speaking of, that's my source of cuttlebone remnants, hehe.

Thanks for the tips!!
Click to expand...

How did I forget to mention squash?? Man, I'm definitely not awake! Yeah, out of all of the veggie scraps, zucchini and squash in general is definitely the favorite here! They seem to be quicker to get on it if it's gently blanched first, but it never goes to waste that's for sure!
 
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